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Old 08-22-2012, 08:09 AM   #29
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Thanks for posting Bill... great info!
You are going to post some pics of course?
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:12 AM   #30
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Anyone have any experience with one of these systems?

EZ-EFI™ Self Tuning Fuel Injection System (Base Kit)
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:37 AM   #31
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I've done a lot of tuning of the stock GM PCM using a wideband and logging/tuning software and hardware manufactured by EFILive. FAST is one of many Competition Cams companies. They produce good products and stand behind their products.

Tuning an EFI system basically involves getting the look-up tables for various manifold pressures and RPM combinations dialed in by logging fuel to air mixture data using the wide band oxygen sensor with a laptop computer. For general purposes, you want the engine to run at a stoichiometric mixture (optimum AFR of about 14.7:1 for gasoline). Startup enrichment and full throttle enrichment may also need to be adjusted and set up in the EFI's computer. On systems that incorporate spark control with or without knock retard capability, the spark tables must also be set up in a way that mimics the centriugal and vacuum advance of a traditional distributor.

There's a learning curve to all of this but it can be rewarding and fun.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:32 AM   #32
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Brad,
Don't know about EZ EFI, but see post #10 here on a swap to a Powerjection system:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...arb-55577.html

It would be good to hear how it has held up over time.
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:02 PM   #33
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More good info, this is turning into an awesome thread!

All this talk of EFI, make me want to throw the Carb away and put a system on... but here in California it STILL has to pass smog, and few of these aftermarket systems are CARB complient.

Maybe I should do the TBI conversion rather than stress about the carb!
I have a complete 454 from a 1990 Suburaban, and I also took the whole TBI system, including the harness and ECU, with the plan to swap the whole thing into a Blazer...



I hear its not difficult, but I would need to swap the Airpump system too.... and the 1990 had a single serpentine belt, as well as everything on the engine being transposed... ie on the 1990 the AC compressor is on the right of the engine and the Alternator on the left... on my 1987 Suburban and my Airstream, it reversed..
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Keyair, do you know what the specs are on your RV cam? Also, do you know if there are any marking on the outside of the heads to tell what they are? I'd sure like to know which ones I have.
Dean,
Still looking for my cam sheet... I know I have it somewhere!

The head castings are marked in 2 places most of the time.
Here is a shot of one of the casting marks, clearly showing a 781 and Pass, meaning passenger car...
This one is on the underside, but there is another set of numbers cast on the heads on the top between the rocker pedestals and the valves.



Look up your casting numbers here..

Big Block Chevy Engine Parts casting numbers and Identification
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Old 08-22-2012, 04:48 PM   #35
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I do my own mechanical work on the motorhome because if I paid shop rates I simply couldn't afford to have an RV. For most of my life I only had one vehicle so that prevented me from being much of a gearhead if you have to drive it to work the next day. But now I have four vehicles and with all the good information on the Internet I feel like I can do a lot of the work myself. The reason I went with the Holley system is at the time it was well documented and a lot of support over on the Chevy forums and the amount of changes I had to make were minimal. One of these days I want to write a blog about this experience so I can remember what I done and how I did it.
One thing with a EFI system you have to throw away that old air pump because the air will completely swamp out the O2 sensor. I don't know how older cars in California are tested but the way I understand it in the rest of the country they only sniff the tailpipe at two RPM settings. If you have your fuel map optimized it will fail because of too much NOX but the quick fix is just make those particular RPM settings a little richer to keep the cylinder temperature down. Because of the age and weight of my RV I don't have to do emission testing even in a nonattainment area like Austin.
If I were to do it again I would most likely try to transplant a complete system out of the junkyard and perhaps use a megasquirt controller because I like the idea of accessibility to all of the software and the ability to make your own enhancements. The downside is with both Holley and megasquirt, you nearly need to have a second controller as a spare because if you have a failure you're not going to pick one up at AutoZone.
Regards
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:07 PM   #36
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Hi Bill,

That's true, the sniffer test is done at idle and something like 2500 RPMs. Motorhomes over 8500 pounds are exempt from the dyno test. The catch is there is also a visual check. All OEM smog equipment must be present and working. I'm still confused about an engine swap to a later year. I just read the DMV requirement and it states that no modification can be made that degrades the smog emissions and the smog equipment for the original year, make and model must be present...what if you put in an engine 10 years newer? Smog checks are done once every two years except for those vehicle the state wants off the road, such as my MH, it has to be smogged every year. I'm due again next month...sad! My problem last year is that it had too much NOX at idle, then when the tester adjusted idle mixture to pass, it would not pass CO at 2500 RPMs.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:20 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair

Dean,
Still looking for my cam sheet... I know I have it somewhere!

The head castings are marked in 2 places most of the time.
Here is a shot of one of the casting marks, clearly showing a 781 and Pass, meaning passenger car...
This one is on the underside, but there is another set of numbers cast on the heads on the top between the rocker pedestals and the valves.

Look up your casting numbers here..

Big Block Chevy Engine Parts casting numbers and Identification
Thanks Steve. I've been doing a lot of Internet reading...for whatever that's worth. The casting number of the block only determines what year range the block was manufactured, the cubic inches and whether two or four bolt mains. However, many casting numbers state that they could be two or four bolt mains. Most folks say the only way to know how many bolts is to drop the pan and look. There is another number on the front of the block above the timing chain cover that can give more info. I tried like crazy to see that number on my block...no way. My casting number is 14015445. A lot of folks also state that the PASS code on the front of the block which most say means passenger car, doesn't mean a lot, they say GM put that block in a lot of trucks.

I'll look for the casting number on my heads someday when I remove the valve covers to replace the gaskets.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:27 PM   #38
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Hey Bill (shelocta),

I think you mentioned you have an '82? Which floor plan/size do you have? I think I looked at the Holly site for their EFIs, but I don't think any were CARB compliment. Tell us a little more about in Holly EFI installation and how that went!
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:39 PM   #39
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This is my understanding of the smog rules here in Ca.
Anything gas powered before 1975 is smog exempt.
Anything diesel powered before 1998 is smog exempt.
Anything diesel powered and over 14000lb is smog exempt..

Dean is correct about the smog rules for a post 1975 gas powered vehicle.
All original smog equipment should be present and functional.
Any modified parts need to have a CARB AO number, eg, and intake or exhaust manifold, altho I am told there are acceptable exceptions.

Putting a TBI system from a later vehicle is fine, but then the smog is judged on that era vehicle... ie, put a TBI system on from a 1990 vehicle and it will be judged on 1990 smog levels.
Put a complete engine in and that is what they judge it on...
So the trick would be use a pre- 1998 Diesel vehicle for the donor, if you are under 14,000lb... of if you have a 345... sky is the limit!
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #40
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This might be of interest to the folks in Calif.

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResource...uidelines.html
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:19 AM   #41
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I heard that the later Vortec heads are the best factory heads..... and should be cheap!

I would be interested in some opinions about the TBI vs carb in terms of power and fuel economy...

Anyone have an opinions on Waterpumps?
I heard the high flow Aluminum units are the best for cooling...
Something like this one...
Holley Performance Products Action +Plus Water Pump*9242
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:42 AM   #42
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One of my all time favorite automotive books was "How to Rebuild Small Block Chevys". I literally wore that book out when I was 18 years old and hot rodded my 350 in my '69 Chevelle.

I've added these books to my collection over the last few months. They are worth their weight in gold and they have really helped me to weed out the myths of the backyard mechanics! Its important for me to always remember that I own and drive an RV and not a race car.
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