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Old 11-07-2012, 09:33 AM   #29
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On our 345 the HVAC is vacuum controled.
Also the step.

There is a small vacuum canister on the rear passenger side of the doghouse, with 2 small pipes emerging from it... cut off of course!
I think I saw a vacuum diagram in the Airstream Service manual that explained that, but I will have to look it up again.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:42 AM   #30
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On our 345 the HVAC is vacuum controled.
Also the step.

There is a small vacuum canister on the rear passenger side of the doghouse, with 2 small pipes emerging from it... cut off of course!
I think I saw a vacuum diagram in the Airstream Service manual that explained that, but I will have to look it up again.
Crap! Forgot about the dash A/C. I think that does require a vacuum canister. Fortunately I have several to choose from off of the 345. I am installing electric steps on the Argosy so don't need vacuum there.

I looked through the 310 service manual and couldn't find any sort of vacuum diagram other than for the steps.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:52 AM   #31
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
The eastern swamps , North Carolina
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Cool Where is your TPI going to be located?

Hi Brad, guys, Smartstream, Keyair, et al:
Brad where is your TPI going to be located? Because you are planning on using your 4L80e transmission, you must have a TPI . Usually on the carb linkage is the best spot. Edelbrock should have info on location and mounting.
Emissions on a 1974 vehicle over 8000lbs? To use a New York expression
Fahged aboud it! Just don't move to California. But conversely, you have no need to make it a heavy polluter.
Plus that Edelbrock carb probably already blows ya out of the water for emissions compliance. Changing the 350 out for a 454 also blows out the "original equipment" emissions requirement.

In other words when ever we even think about upgrading our "ahem" engine compartment, we break Federal, and California law.
So keep the stock HEI distributor, put a very hot ignition module in it. Summit and other places have them. Make sure your pcv system is working well . I'm pretty sure your 1984 454 has an EGR valve, keep that working. if you get an aftermarket manifold make sure it is an EGR manifold. Keep your air pump working, and plumb into your headers. A "fairly" clean 1984 454, is probably way cleaner than a stock 1974 anything.

Long tube headers are a must, and if you want to be really "green" go with a quieter single exhaust, and put a catalytic converter just aft of the headers, in front of your muffler..

Last mechanical thought, before you put that 454 in . Change out the timing gears and chain for,,, Real ones!

In lots of states any vehicle over 35 yrs old is completely exempt from all inspections, check it out for your state.
OK. Just my 2 cents worth
Keep on keeping on.
All the best. Cheers. Rich.
P.S. lol, I got snap---er---Smartstreams name right, sorry about that Dan.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:27 AM   #32
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Brad...
Here is my mystery canister, tucked in the back corner of the engine compartment..



And here is the clue I knew I had seen in the service manual....
Cruise control..


And here is the Vacuum diagram I saw for the step...
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:36 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Crap! Forgot about the dash A/C. I think that does require a vacuum canister. Fortunately I have several to choose from off of the 345. I am installing electric steps on the Argosy so don't need vacuum there.

I looked through the 310 service manual and couldn't find any sort of vacuum diagram other than for the steps.

Thanks!

Brad
I don't think there was any vacuum used on the dash air in the early mohos. My 82 doesn't use vacuum. I think the newer units had a common plenum for the heat and A/C but on mine at least the heater lives in front of the passenger foot well while the A/C is in the center up under the dash. All the controls are cable.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LimeyRich View Post
Hi Brad, guys, Smartstream, Keyair, et al:
Brad where is your TPI going to be located? Because you are planning on using your 4L80e transmission, you must have a TPI . Usually on the carb linkage is the best spot. Edelbrock should have info on location and mounting.
Do you mean TPS instead of TPI? I thought TPI was Tuned Port Injection and TPS is Throttle Position Sensor. Regardless I have not been able to find any source for a TPS to use with the Edelbrock. Any suggestions?

Quote:
Emissions on a 1974 vehicle over 8000lbs? To use a New York expression
Fahged aboud it! Just don't move to California.
There is absolutely NO way I would ever live in California Not my cup of tea....

Quote:
But conversely, you have no need to make it a heavy polluter.
Plus that Edelbrock carb probably already blows ya out of the water for emissions compliance. Changing the 350 out for a 454 also blows out the "original equipment" emissions requirement.
Fortunately right now I don't have to worry about emissions compliance. I'll worry about that when/if it ever happens.

Quote:
In other words when ever we even think about upgrading our "ahem" engine compartment, we break Federal, and California law.
Sad but true

Quote:
So keep the stock HEI distributor, put a very hot ignition module in it. Summit and other places have them. Make sure your pcv system is working well . I'm pretty sure your 1984 454 has an EGR valve, keep that working. if you get an aftermarket manifold make sure it is an EGR manifold. Keep your air pump working, and plumb into your headers. A "fairly" clean 1984 454, is probably way cleaner than a stock 1974 anything.
What distributor to use is still one of my questions. I have a distributor from a 1981 454 chevy 1-ton pickup that I could use. Or I can buy one of the cheapy HEI style of distributors off of ebay. For starters I'll probably use the distributor that I have.

Quote:
Long tube headers are a must, and if you want to be really "green" go with a quieter single exhaust, and put a catalytic converter just aft of the headers, in front of your muffler..
Right now I have Hedman headers which came with the 81 dually that I stole the motor from. Haven't thought far enough ahead about the exhaust but I do like the single exhaust. Not sure what the advantage of having a cat would be.

Quote:
Last mechanical thought, before you put that 454 in . Change out the timing gears and chain for,,, Real ones!
I honestly don't know what gears where put back in the motor after it was rebuilt. I specified new timing gears and chain but I was in Pasadena CA and the motor was in Pine Bluff Arkansas so I couldn't keep up with what they were installing.

Brad
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:57 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
I don't think there was any vacuum used on the dash air in the early mohos. My 82 doesn't use vacuum. I think the newer units had a common plenum for the heat and A/C but on mine at least the heater lives in front of the passenger foot well while the A/C is in the center up under the dash. All the controls are cable.

Cheers, Dan
Dan, that's a good bit of news

From what I have seen of the hoses (heat & A/C) they all go into a common box in front of the passenger foot well. I can however see the bottom of the heater/ac dash control so that should tell me if vacuum is involved. I won't know any more until I remove the dash cover.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:54 PM   #36
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Talking Not subject to emissions inspections ?,,,,sweet.

North Carolina is the same for heavier vehicles.
Some times it's TPS=throttle position sensor, others it's TPI = throttle position indicator, not sure why. Think it's the same thing.
You do need to check out what works with the Edelbrock. The need for a TPI signal to the 4L80e controller is one of the reasons I used a 4150 square bore Holley. The TPI kit for square bore Holleys was just too easy.
You should be able to get a distributor from a junkyard if you have to.
Pine Bluff, Arkansas? Those boys probably put real gears in it, bet they didn't cotton to plastic timing gear teeth.
All the best. Rich.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:46 PM   #37
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Brad

Here is a couple of pics of the dash air in our 75 Argosy. As you can see there are vacuum motors. There are 4 the 2 you see and there are 2 more in the bottom of the box that operate the bottom vents. There is also a vacuum storage tank that mounts to the back of the plenum for the dash

John
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:17 AM   #38
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Brad

Here is a couple of pics of the dash air in our 75 Argosy. As you can see there are vacuum motors. There are 4 the 2 you see and there are 2 more in the bottom of the box that operate the bottom vents. There is also a vacuum storage tank that mounts to the back of the plenum for the dash

John
John,

The piping going into the evaporator looks just the piping on my 74, going into the side of the box. Our 310 and the 345 the piping goes in from the front at the far right.

If I understand you correctly the vacuum tank is actually inside the dash area out of sight. It's a good thing I've been planning to pull the dash apart (now that I know it can be done!) otherwise I wouldn't have known about the vacuum line and those vacuum motors.

More things to add to the check/repair list

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:15 PM   #39
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Brad
In the pic of the plenum on the 2 chairs. On the right you can see the long shadow of where the tank mounts it is on the engine side above the batteries.

It looks like a large juice can about 10 inches long and 4 inches wide.
If you are going to remove the dash air it is supposed to drop down through the right fender well. The tire would have to be removed as well be careful because the box is quite heavy.

The only other way to remove it is to remove the plastic dash then remove the aluminum plate then you will have access to it and you can remove from the top.

You will have to cut all of the rivets by the windshield and along the firewall.Sounds like a lot of work but you will have access to everything above the engine and rad.

It is a job you only do once. On our Argosy somebody had cut the aluminum plate in half not a good idea. So I could remove things from the top. In this pic you can see where the plate was cut the they used gobs of silicone to repair the cut. Just left click the pic to enlarge it.
John
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:53 AM   #40
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Brad
In the pic of the plenum on the 2 chairs. On the right you can see the long shadow of where the tank mounts it is on the engine side above the batteries.
Wow, if you're talking about the shadow on the tip right, that's a big tank!

Quote:
It looks like a large juice can about 10 inches long and 4 inches wide.
If you are going to remove the dash air it is supposed to drop down through the right fender well. The tire would have to be removed as well be careful because the box is quite heavy.
I haven't decided just how much I'm going to dismantle of the dash area. I'll probably make that decision as I take the dash top off and see just how good or bad things look underneath. I'm not looking forward to tearing into the dash but I want to at least see what is underneath.

Quote:
The only other way to remove it is to remove the plastic dash then remove the aluminum plate then you will have access to it and you can remove from the top.

You will have to cut all of the rivets by the windshield and along the firewall.Sounds like a lot of work but you will have access to everything above the engine and rad.

It is a job you only do once. On our Argosy somebody had cut the aluminum plate in half not a good idea. So I could remove things from the top. In this pic you can see where the plate was cut the they used gobs of silicone to repair the cut. Just left click the pic to enlarge it.
John
How do you cut the rivets? From the picture it looks like they are right up next to the glass.

Can the cut aluminum be repaired with a patch panel riveted into place?

Great picture by the way! If you have more from that area I'd like to see them

Brad
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:22 AM   #41
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Ok, got another question. On the top of the Performer 2.0 intake manifold there is what I believe to be a large vacuum port. In the attached picture it has a pipe nipple screwed into it that has hose barbs on it.

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A little back ground is probably in order. The original motor in the Argosy was removed at some time in the distant past to put in a race car. The motor that I had the shop rebuild came from an 81 Chevy 1-ton dually. The block is actually a car "High Perf" block. When the shop built the motor they just transferred the parts from the dually over to the new build.

My guess is I should remove the fitting and plug the port since the Edelbrock carburetor has the needed vacuum ports. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #42
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Brad.
Our MH has an edelbrock carb on the stock manifold.

There is a vacuum port on the intake manifold, behind the carb on passenger side.
It feeds the transmission modulator(the upward facing connector)... and thats all I know so far... at least one of the pipes(rh side) goes nowhere and was not attached or plugged... and the other goes to the vacuum step feed(I think!), but there is also the vacuum pipe that comes from the rear of the carb....
Still trying to figure it all out!

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