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Old 04-04-2010, 08:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe View Post

I sourced my hose from Rockleer Woodworks and the upper and lower parts of the canister from Summit Racing. I added the body by wrapping about 4 layers of flashing aluminum and then cutting the hose opening. Sealed all with gasket maker and this system is then fronted with a reusable cone filter.
Glen- I'm wondering if you still run a filter inside the canister at carb or is the front cone filter the only one you run? This sounds like a mod that's well worth doing. Thanks.
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:59 AM   #16
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Glen- I'm wondering if you still run a filter inside the canister at carb or is the front cone filter the only one you run? This sounds like a mod that's well worth doing. Thanks.
Bill, due to the increased height of the canister a regular filter would not really do much filtering. So it is removed in favor of the cone filter up front.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:01 AM   #17
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I ordered a "carb hat" with filter and a duct for mine. I've neverheard of the hat before. It's basically a cast aluminum elbow that fits the carb on one end and a 4" filter or duct on the other. I'm planning on running the duct and mounting the filter on the curb side where there's more clearance. I'll post pics after the installation.
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:23 PM   #18
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Can't wait to see those photos "projector" as I've not heard of the carb hat before either. Can you tell us where you found it?
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:35 AM   #19
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I found the term by doing google searches then bought one on ebay that was called a 4" intake plenum. Since I've seen single and dual setups for race cars. The part and filter were about $50 plus shipping and was delivered last Friday. The casting is beautiful and has a nice crinkle finish to match my black valve covers. (details are important) The filter is a K&N knock-off of decent enough quality. I got the duct from another source. It's intended for brake cooling on race cars, so it's wire reinforced with a smooth inner surface and is rated to arround 300 degrees. All the parts are in and I'll install them this week.
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:02 AM   #20
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Don't hold back man, tell us where you got it!!!

All the carb hats I've found after doing a search are more expensive than your price.

Tell us where!!
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:43 AM   #21
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PROJECTOR----Like Glen said---"Don't hold back man"---we need to know---do pictures please!!!

thanks Bob
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:58 AM   #22
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Here's where I got it. The guy has a store and is listing them in different colors on the filter and either polished or black crinkle on the casting.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCHARGER-SUPERCHARGER-BLOW-THRU-CARB-HAT-CHEVY-FORD_W0QQitemZ300416856866QQihZ020QQcategoryZ43946 QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo %3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%25 2BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63

Here's the duct. I bought 6', not knowing if 3' would be enough.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3620

I layed it out last night to figure out the duct routing. Here's a before and 2 possible afters.
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Routing the hose directly forward is a shorter run with fewer bends and looks cooler but is a tighter fit. Running it back then down has more clearance but...
Heres what each looks like down below.
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Where to mount the filter is another issue. It's size limits it. I'm thinking a hanger and shield in between these braces in the upper forward part of the wheel well. There is plenty of room and it's protected from bugs.
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Well that's it for now. I'm ready and look forward to your opinions. Here's a detail of the carb hat/plenum.
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thanks.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:52 AM   #23
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Projector, it seems to me it would be best with the shorter run with less curves up front. That way, you would have less heat in the ductwork and get more ram air effect from the front. Idea is to get more and cooler air into the carburetor, and I think that might do it. You may have to experiment with it over a period of time to see which way works best for economy and performance. My .02 cents worth. I am going to do the same thing myself on my 310 and I am seeing very limited space to get the intake out front of the firewall.
Mike
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:17 AM   #24
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Agreed. Ideal would be going straight forward over the valve cover and not have to drop but everything is in the way.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:49 AM   #25
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Projector, thanks for posting the link and photos. I think what you have found will be the standard going forward. The smaller carb hat will likely produce more ram effect than the larger diameter project I've used over the years.

On your install I would strongly suggest finding a way forward through the curtain above the rad. Your present cone filter location is too close to the bottom and will collect enough road debris to shorten filter life.

Check out the route straight down the middle of the engine or left of the a/c compressor. I think you'll find the middle route to give you just enough room to get over the rad and into the cooler air supply forward.

Shorter is better and gentle bends in the supply hose will ensure stronger delivery of airflow. Is the hose smooth inside? I used sawdust/vacuum hose from the woodworking industry due to the smooth interior design and expect little in the way of parasitic/friction loss.

I think the polished aluminum is more in keeping with the Airstream look and will be easier to clean than the black crinkle. It's nice to have a choice.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:21 AM   #26
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I tried that, following your lead on how you routed yours. The problem is everything is running through where you're talking about, the passenger side is a little more open. The other thing is once you get there, there's not much room for the filter itself. My batteries are located where you have your filter and horns. The filter in the photo is not installed yet. In the top of the photo there is a 1"x2" square pipe running crosswise. If I keep this route the filter/duct would be tied to that brace and have some sort of shield to block road debri and water...something the size of a coffee can.
The hose is mostly smooth on the inside, not as smooth as dust collection hose but smoother than a dryer vent hose. Luckily I had a union/couple thing left over from when I set up my dust collection system to join the filter to the duct.
With the polished part I'd have to get matching valve covers, so I opted to clean my black ones. Thanks for the comments.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:53 AM   #27
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Here's what I ended up with. I made an aluminum bracket with a 4" tube welded on for the duct and filter to mount to. Okay I didn't make it but instead used the talent in the metal shop at work. The bracket has a bend in it to shield debri and water from the front tire. The majority of the debri doesn't make it that far forward but this should help.

Here's the part before paint.

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Here's the instalation. To attach it to a 1x2 frame crossmember I drilled and tapped for 4 1/4-20 screws.

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Here's the top. I added a vent for the crank case. I couldn't find one that fit the smaller hole in the valve cover so I bought a new pcv grommet and a cheaper aftermarket vent that fit the inside diameter. And painted it black to match, of course. The only thing I may change is to shorten the duct to tighty it up a little.

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Going for a ride it seems to make a big difference. It seems peppier and has better acceleration, not to mention the that wonderful sound of the 4 barrel kicking in. I used just less than half of the 6' duct that I bought. If anyone is interested the the left over piece, it is about 38" long and I'll sell if for half what I paid plus shipping. Let me know and thanks.
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:34 AM   #28
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Heres what I did.

From Spectre Performance. They make a TON of intake options.

I added a TBI fuel injection kit from Professional Products, the powerjection 3 so I had to do an intake like this for doghouse clearance.
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