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Old 04-12-2010, 09:43 AM   #21
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PROJECTOR----Like Glen said---"Don't hold back man"---we need to know---do pictures please!!!

thanks Bob
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:58 AM   #22
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Here's where I got it. The guy has a store and is listing them in different colors on the filter and either polished or black crinkle on the casting.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCHARGER-SUPERCHARGER-BLOW-THRU-CARB-HAT-CHEVY-FORD_W0QQitemZ300416856866QQihZ020QQcategoryZ43946 QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo %3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%25 2BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63

Here's the duct. I bought 6', not knowing if 3' would be enough.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3620

I layed it out last night to figure out the duct routing. Here's a before and 2 possible afters.
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Routing the hose directly forward is a shorter run with fewer bends and looks cooler but is a tighter fit. Running it back then down has more clearance but...
Heres what each looks like down below.
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Where to mount the filter is another issue. It's size limits it. I'm thinking a hanger and shield in between these braces in the upper forward part of the wheel well. There is plenty of room and it's protected from bugs.
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Well that's it for now. I'm ready and look forward to your opinions. Here's a detail of the carb hat/plenum.
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thanks.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:52 AM   #23
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Thumbs up air cleaners

Projector, it seems to me it would be best with the shorter run with less curves up front. That way, you would have less heat in the ductwork and get more ram air effect from the front. Idea is to get more and cooler air into the carburetor, and I think that might do it. You may have to experiment with it over a period of time to see which way works best for economy and performance. My .02 cents worth. I am going to do the same thing myself on my 310 and I am seeing very limited space to get the intake out front of the firewall.
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:17 AM   #24
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Agreed. Ideal would be going straight forward over the valve cover and not have to drop but everything is in the way.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:49 AM   #25
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Projector, thanks for posting the link and photos. I think what you have found will be the standard going forward. The smaller carb hat will likely produce more ram effect than the larger diameter project I've used over the years.

On your install I would strongly suggest finding a way forward through the curtain above the rad. Your present cone filter location is too close to the bottom and will collect enough road debris to shorten filter life.

Check out the route straight down the middle of the engine or left of the a/c compressor. I think you'll find the middle route to give you just enough room to get over the rad and into the cooler air supply forward.

Shorter is better and gentle bends in the supply hose will ensure stronger delivery of airflow. Is the hose smooth inside? I used sawdust/vacuum hose from the woodworking industry due to the smooth interior design and expect little in the way of parasitic/friction loss.

I think the polished aluminum is more in keeping with the Airstream look and will be easier to clean than the black crinkle. It's nice to have a choice.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:21 AM   #26
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I tried that, following your lead on how you routed yours. The problem is everything is running through where you're talking about, the passenger side is a little more open. The other thing is once you get there, there's not much room for the filter itself. My batteries are located where you have your filter and horns. The filter in the photo is not installed yet. In the top of the photo there is a 1"x2" square pipe running crosswise. If I keep this route the filter/duct would be tied to that brace and have some sort of shield to block road debri and water...something the size of a coffee can.
The hose is mostly smooth on the inside, not as smooth as dust collection hose but smoother than a dryer vent hose. Luckily I had a union/couple thing left over from when I set up my dust collection system to join the filter to the duct.
With the polished part I'd have to get matching valve covers, so I opted to clean my black ones. Thanks for the comments.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:53 AM   #27
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Here's what I ended up with. I made an aluminum bracket with a 4" tube welded on for the duct and filter to mount to. Okay I didn't make it but instead used the talent in the metal shop at work. The bracket has a bend in it to shield debri and water from the front tire. The majority of the debri doesn't make it that far forward but this should help.

Here's the part before paint.

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Here's the instalation. To attach it to a 1x2 frame crossmember I drilled and tapped for 4 1/4-20 screws.

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Here's the top. I added a vent for the crank case. I couldn't find one that fit the smaller hole in the valve cover so I bought a new pcv grommet and a cheaper aftermarket vent that fit the inside diameter. And painted it black to match, of course. The only thing I may change is to shorten the duct to tighty it up a little.

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Going for a ride it seems to make a big difference. It seems peppier and has better acceleration, not to mention the that wonderful sound of the 4 barrel kicking in. I used just less than half of the 6' duct that I bought. If anyone is interested the the left over piece, it is about 38" long and I'll sell if for half what I paid plus shipping. Let me know and thanks.
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:34 AM   #28
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Heres what I did.

From Spectre Performance. They make a TON of intake options.

I added a TBI fuel injection kit from Professional Products, the powerjection 3 so I had to do an intake like this for doghouse clearance.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #29
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All those mods look great!
I have a problem that maybe someone can help with...
I recently bought my '84 Classic 345 to California, and have to smog it to complete the registration.
I have the original Airfilter, with the Banks upper housing, but the canister intake is missing, and also I have no idea where the several small pipe should go...
Anyone got time to trace their pipes or anyone know where I can get a schematic?

This is what I am talking about...
Looks like there is a place for a pipe on the inner silver nipple... and the brown connector has a place for 2 or maybe 3 things to connect to... and on the rim of the filter there looks like a clip for 2 pipes...
Does anyone have the complete sytem tucked aside when you did the conversions?

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Old 08-19-2011, 01:40 PM   #30
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Ok, if carb hat with single inlet is good, what about with dual inlet? Or is that just asking for trouble, trying to route two carb inlet hoses?

Dual Inlet Carb Hat Air Intake Plenum Supercharger | eBay
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:09 AM   #31
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On mine there was barely enough room for one duct. The 4" duct is about the size of the carb inlet itself so I don't think a dual inlet would do much for you. I looks cool though.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:22 PM   #32
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When I finally get this beast home into my driveway, I'll start 'tearing things apart' to see what all I have. Was looking today through the engine access door on front of moho, and saw a 4" duct pipe coming from engine compartment to the front grill. Only been inside doghouse once, and didn't think to pay attention as to what was under that Banks Air Filter cover. Know that current owner had the Banks Power Pack installed, and his comment was 'What a difference'
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:44 AM   #33
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Projector,

I really like how you made this mod. I'm curious as to whether you have any issues cleaning/replacing the air filter, and have you found that you do it less or more often because of the location?

Brad


Quote:
Originally Posted by projector View Post
Here's what I ended up with. I made an aluminum bracket with a 4" tube welded on for the duct and filter to mount to. Okay I didn't make it but instead used the talent in the metal shop at work. The bracket has a bend in it to shield debri and water from the front tire. The majority of the debri doesn't make it that far forward but this should help.

Here's the part before paint.

Attachment 101511 Attachment 101512

Here's the instalation. To attach it to a 1x2 frame crossmember I drilled and tapped for 4 1/4-20 screws.

Attachment 101513 Attachment 101514

Here's the top. I added a vent for the crank case. I couldn't find one that fit the smaller hole in the valve cover so I bought a new pcv grommet and a cheaper aftermarket vent that fit the inside diameter. And painted it black to match, of course. The only thing I may change is to shorten the duct to tighty it up a little.

Attachment 101515

Going for a ride it seems to make a big difference. It seems peppier and has better acceleration, not to mention the that wonderful sound of the 4 barrel kicking in. I used just less than half of the 6' duct that I bought. If anyone is interested the the left over piece, it is about 38" long and I'll sell if for half what I paid plus shipping. Let me know and thanks.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:00 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Projector,

I really like how you made this mod. I'm curious as to whether you have any issues cleaning/replacing the air filter, and have you found that you do it less or more often because of the location?

Brad
How does heavy rain affect the driveability; does the air cleaner element gets wet and doesn't allow air flow or cause any other issue?
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projector View Post
On mine there was barely enough room for one duct. The 4" duct is about the size of the carb inlet itself so I don't think a dual inlet would do much for you. I looks cool though.
An issue I see with your hat is it is very small and the air has to make a very tight turn to enter the carb this causes high turbulence and a marked decrease in potential performance.The length of the duct also makes a difference in flow vs going to a larger duct at that length.I have vanes in my intake track every where a tight radius has to be made.I have gained over 50lbft of torque with just airflow mods on my truck at cruise rpm.slowing down the air anywhere it has to make a turn will help also.That is why the oem air filter housings are as big as they are.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:56 AM   #36
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Air cleaner mods

Good useful thread guys! Glad to see it resurrected. Thanks for reposting those pics Glen.
I am temporarily running a 14"x4" spectre high flow air cleaner on top of my Holley 650cfm 4150, that combination has already helped gas mileage significantly, but it does nothing for the hot intake air problem. However I have had my eye on Glens Air cleaner mod for a long time. I intend to build Glens mod, with a short velocity stack inside, and run dual 4" intakes to each wheel well. That will be my next mod, after completing my 4L80e conversion. The transmission changeover should be wrapped up soon.
All the best! Have a Happy and prosperous New Year! Rich.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:48 AM   #37
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I'm beginning to think this is the piece Dual port carb hat I want to use. I just to need to make sure I can route both hoses to the front or to the front wheel wells like Projector did.

Even though my Argosy is supposed to have both batteries located up front and center I'm going to relocate them to more sensible locations. I'm almost positive the coach battery will be relocated under the bed/couch in the back. Not sure about the engine battery but probably will relocate it to the left front wheel well.

Brad
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:33 PM   #38
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Glenns mod, modded for a 345 coach.

I am pretty well convinced that Glenn has been on track with his air cleaner mod. Furthermore he has been running it for a few years now.
Quote:
Take the time to do a DIY job with very little expense and you'll be a happy camper.

I sourced my hose from Rockleer Woodworks and the upper and lower parts of the canister from Summit Racing. I added the body by wrapping about 4 layers of flashing aluminum and then cutting the hose opening. Sealed all with gasket maker and this system is then fronted with a reusable cone filter.

Performance gain was noticeable and has stood the test of time well.
Glenn's air cleaner is simple to build, and simple to mod for dual 4"intakes especially if you have a 345 coach. Adding a short velocity stack inside the box is easy, it will clean up the air flow over and into the carb, plus I have one sitting around currently doing nothing to justify it's upkeep. Because of the extra junk on my '88 345's engine there is almost no unobstructed room to the the front.
Going over the valve covers on each side and out into the wheel well looks like the ticket for me.
ooh, ooh, almost forgot, plus some nice flat black spray paint might make the setup look factory, to a casual peek!
That's my two cents.
All the best. Cheers!
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:40 PM   #39
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I would have to say "less" because I haven't done either yet. It's location is easy enought to get to. It's also mounted high and forward enought that water isn't really an issue. It also is getting plenty of air.

thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Projector,

I really like how you made this mod. I'm curious as to whether you have any issues cleaning/replacing the air filter, and have you found that you do it less or more often because of the location?

Brad
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projector View Post
I would have to say "less" because I haven't done either yet. It's location is easy enought to get to. It's also mounted high and forward enought that water isn't really an issue. It also is getting plenty of air.

thanks
Thanks for the info. I like the location you chose for the filter so I'll see about using the same location once I get motor back in the chassis.

Thanks!

Brad
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