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Old 05-20-2005, 01:45 PM   #29
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Hmmm...
I showed my dad the plan, and he had some interesting questions that I didn't have answers to...
What is the distinct advantage of wiring a new solenoid in series? Why not just send a "hurkier" (bigger) wire through my ignition switch? If the problem is just reduced current through the small wire running from the Ignition switch then replacing it with a bigger one should solve it right? Is there anything that the extra solenoid does that a bigger wire can't do? Is there risk of toasting the ignition switch?

-Logan
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:15 PM   #30
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Logan,
PM me your email address. I have the GM Service Bulletins for you.

S
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pillageTHENburn
Hmmm...
I showed my dad the plan, and he had some interesting questions that I didn't have answers to...
What is the distinct advantage of wiring a new solenoid in series?
I have seen the solenoid advised for a hot start problem and wondered the same thing, a solenoid in series with a solenoid. I think it might have something to do with Ford mounting theirs seperate from the starter and they really don't have as much problem as Chevy. But I can't understand why the second solenoid would improve voltage or current flow, just one more set of contacts to fail.

I have heard 2 explanations for the problem. First is the ignition wire as you said. Second is the post on the starter where the battery wire attaches expands and contracts and loosees contact. It wouldn't take much, these need all the current they can get to crank.

I think 2 ga. wire is heavy enough, it is what I have always used. Keep it as short as possible and make sure all connections are tight and clean.

John
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 74Argosy24MH
...Second is the post on the starter where the battery wire attaches expands and contracts and loosees contact. It wouldn't take much, these need all the current they can get to crank.
It would seem that this problem would still be there with or without a second solenoid right? The battery wire is still going to go to the same post, just via a second solenoid this time. I'm about to just wire a Push Button Momenary in there with 0Ga just out of frustration!!! heh...
-Logan
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:10 PM   #33
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This may explain it. From the Chevrolet Dealer Service Technical Bulletin 78-T26:

"In some cases, the battery voltage available for solenoid operation is adequate when the coil is relatively cool, but is insufficient when the coil is hot. Typically, the voltage drop across the ignition switch, neutral start switch circuit to the solenoid should not exceed 2 volts. This, normally, would allow approximately 8 volts for solenoid operation. Unfortunately, the ignition/start circuit voltage drop can exceed 4 volts due to switch contact resistance, wire lengths, etc. Since the solenoid requires a minimum of 7 volts for positive operation, a marginal or "no start" situation can occur.

...(continued) The coil of the magnetic switch is connected in serious with the ignition/neutral start switch circuit. Maximum available voltage is, therefore, applied to the solenoid, since the voltage drop in the magnetic switch contact circuit is virtually zero".

Sounds like it's more about getting the resistance of the ignition circuit out of the loop between the batteries and the starter solenoid rather than "fixing" the "hot" solenoid. The ignition now simply closes the "relay" magnetic swich which direct connects the battery to the starter solenoid (12 volts), eliminating the voltage drop from the ignition/start circuit.

BTW - the bulletin also discussed and describes using heat shields, heat paint, etc to prevent a hot start as well.
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:14 PM   #34
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IMHO it won't make a bit of difference. A solenoid is just a glorified high current switch. In theory it should be about 0 ohms resistance, the same as the cable.

It doesn't amplify voltage or current, it can't pass any more current than the cable, maybe less if the contacts are pitted or rated for a lower amperage. How it can help is something no one has been able to explain that claims it is the solution.

John
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:22 PM   #35
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No idea. Mine came with this already installed on it and I happened to find this bulletin in my manual when I was eating up these switches.

I've never had a hot start issue with mine so I can't say for sure if it "solves" the issue. Just passing long information that might help.

I'm no mechanic but the concept kind of made sense to me in that it didn't "amplify" voltage, it simply helped to remove resistance from the solenoid circuit by using a "relay switch" getting the solenoid at least 7 volts it needs to engage.

It's a $13 part from NAPA...so it's not a big deal to try it and see.
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:34 PM   #36
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I put a thermal wrap around my starter and the wires and also went to a aluminum jacketed starter with enclosed solenoid. No heat problems since then at all.
I f you have a recent starter the jacket and wire insulation might be enough to do what you want. Its inexpensive also.
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Old 08-06-2005, 08:41 PM   #37
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if you go over to driving the ac compressor directly off the water pump only, use no larger than a dayco 15450 v belt as it places the compressor at maximum travel. I've gone over to this setup as I'm tired of the ac belt, 15605 (60.5"), jumping off often.
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:47 PM   #38
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Marginal success with driving the ac directly off the waterpump pulley. Put alot of stress on the belt driving the water pump and it broke. Oh well.......
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