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Old 02-01-2007, 01:05 PM   #15
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Mel,

I'm with you. I always found it much more pleasant to run the dash air when it wasn't too hot outside because it was much more quiet than having the gen set and overhead AC running. Got better mileage w/o the gen set, too. I often thought of putting an air block just behind the cab to keep as much of that dash air forward as possible. I'm sure someone has done that, and could send some pics. No comment on Oklahoma's roads. Southeastern Virginia has plenty of highways, but the traffic is so bad you'll never get a speeding ticket during normal driving hours.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by choctawmel
I use my dash air. I keep it charged properly and it cools good. I have thought about making some drapes to go behind the cockpit area making it even more comfortable and would also dampen the noise from the wife's pots and pans on Oklahoma's third world roads.
Mel
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Old 02-01-2007, 07:58 PM   #16
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We run our dash A/C, and it works great. Proper charge is the key. It is also a good idea to "back wash" your radiator and condensor from time to time. By this I mean taking your water hose and spraying water through the units from behind. You won't believe all the crap that will shoot out the front.
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:08 AM   #17
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Remove dash A/C?

Hi, STEELBIRD312 is right. If for nothing else, the A/C helps defogg your windshield. Leave it in and working. As for the smog pump, if you take it off and have to restore it for smog tests, it will be a big hassle. And if you disconnect it or dissable it incorrectly you could cause an engine fire. Very common; The check valves burn out due to no input from the air pump and the exhaust burns the hoses and the fire from the hoses burns anything near them.
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:10 AM   #18
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Remove Dash AC?

I fully agree with Rob and Robert, especially since you have a functioning AC. In addition, flushing the cooling fins is a big help keeping air flowing through the radiator and back through the fan(s) across the block. I do that annually even with my home AC which is on a concrete slab behind my house. Amazing the dirt and junk that blows out of those fins. Finally, regardless of the smog laws in your state, if you go to sell your MoHo, I can tell you from experience buyers typically want the original equipment on the vehicle. If a buyer is from a state that is tight with smog laws, he would be reluctant to buy a vehicle that had all the smog stuff removed.

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Old 03-04-2007, 08:59 AM   #19
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Both of our roof mount air conditioners put out cool air but not "freeze you out of there" cool air. We have been told that the best we could ask for is 20 degrees cooler than the outside temp. was the standard and both of our units can accomplish that. However, when this Texas heat hits 110 degrees, 20 degrees cooler is not a comfortable temp for us. As much as we appreciate our mechanic's efforts to save us money we were wondering if anyone else holds to this 20 degree cooler than the oustide temperature belief? We have a 1982 310 Isuzu diesel Classic motorhome and don't have any information from the previous owners of the age of our units. We are wondering if we should consider replacing one or both of the units or as our mechanic advises be happy with what we've got and try to park in the shade. Any advice or thoughts?
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:32 AM   #20
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Jimarq:
We have an '85 345 and were told the same thing about 20 degrees being the expected temp drop. Looking at our inside/outside thermometer, it does seem to be the case. Both ACs work fine. We are getting ready to install 2 Fantastic Fans and have been told that if they are run when we first fire up the AC, it can help by exhausting the heated air.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:57 PM   #21
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Ron and Debbie: Thanks for your reply. By the way, both of our A/Cs are Coleman and probably the original units that came on the motorhome. Have your A/C's been replaced and do you know the average life expectancy of a roof A/C?
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:13 AM   #22
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One ours was replaced by a past owner and the other original works fine.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:45 PM   #23
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On my 345, if it's 100+ outside I have to run both roof A/C's to stand it inside. They are both the original Coleman's. The Silver Bullet is in the frame shop getting front-end and tag axle work done; then she goes to the RV shop to get the door worked on; then to another RV shop to get a new Carrier 15K roof A/C-heat pump; then to the tire shop. I put new shades in the living/kitchen and when she comes home, I've got new floor cover for (not carpet) her. If I got any money left, I'll fill the gas tank and be good to go.
When I put the EFI on there wasn't any place to hook all the smog stuff to anymore. The smog pumps went to the collectors of the headers with a 3/4" pipe tread which I capped. No smog pumps, no smog line, no switches, no vacuum lines. More power, less noise.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:56 PM   #24
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nice to avoid all the smog stuff. we can't do that in California although it is good for the environment
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:04 PM   #25
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Ditto both roof AC's on a hot day

Quote:
Originally Posted by choctawmel
On my 345, if it's 100+ outside I have to run both roof A/C's to stand it inside.
The '87 345 is a huge heat sink....even with the dash AC in good shape I would not even think of taking it out in 90 + weather without being able to run the roof units.

Question to Mel...what's up with front end and the tag? - I think it would be a great idea for you to start a new thread dedicated to the upgrades and repair of your unit.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:20 PM   #26
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Well Dennis, One of the tires on the tag was bald after a 2300 miles trip this last summer, so I took it into a frame shop (the only place in Okla City that will work on it) and the bushing are out of the tag... Dang! The shop can't order them from Inland RV (they don't have an account) so I ordered them: 4 at $49 and 2 at $70. The tag is bent and all total they want $918 to do the work (plus I'm buying the parts).
Wasn't maybe 3-4 years ago they had to bend the tag. That time they left half the bolt loss and the air lines leaking. But, no place else to go.
Like everything else I pay to have done, then I got to go back and do it over.
I stopped wearing out the frontend when I figured out how to rise the air ride on the main axle up taking some wieght off the front and the tag. The spring don't hit the frame anymore, and the door closed better too.
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Old 04-08-2007, 11:43 AM   #27
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I agree with Robfike that proper charge is the key, asuming the expansion valve, compressor, etc are OK. MY rig blows icy cold AC even with 134a, but I'm going over to hydrocarbons for a charge to reduce the cost of charging significantly. Been using that for charge media in my cars for a couple of years successfully.
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Old 06-05-2007, 01:26 PM   #28
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An update on our dash and roof AC systems.
On our last trip it seemed like the dash air was starting to get a little lame. I checked the site glass, and it showed a low charge. I was thinking about switching over to a new R-12 friendly refrigerant, but since I had a little R-12 left, I just added to the system. That was all it needed. With 89 degees outside, the air at the dash outlet was 56 degrees. I decided to put the thermometer to the roof units to see what they were doing and found that they both would blow 59 degree air.
That is about as good as it gets.
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