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Old 10-26-2017, 01:04 PM   #1
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1972 31' Excella 500
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83-310Diesel-First Startup in 15 years

Problem:Was spinning over and getting faster, then clunk.
Tried a quick KeyStart (1 time after first clunk) and engine rotates about 1/4 revolution and clunk.
I want to turn over by hand, but the nut on the front of crank is bigger than two inches. I will have to go get bigger sockets.
Engine looks clean under valve cover. It still looked pretty oiled before I squirted it.

Sequence of events up to this point:
1-Remove valve cover and oil valves and what I can see with 15w40.
2-Drawing fuel from a clean jar. **I can see injector pump rotating.
3-KeyStart 10-12 times a 10 second crank over 15 minutes then clunk.

Questions: *I am doing this solo.
1-Any ideas what the clunk is?
2-Does anyone know what the nut size on the crank is?
3-***Most important. Is there a better way to rotate engine other than the nut on the crank. I don't want to use the starter in case it does start up.

??So it has about 120 seconds of cranking time over 15 minutes. Sounded good and getting faster like it was going to catch(or could just be loosening up).
??If it started to fire and then clunk, do you think an injector came apart?
My thought is an injector failed and there is a piece in the cylinder.
Let me know if any of this sounds reasonable and I will pull the injectors to see if one doesn't look so good.
Thanks!
Bob
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:23 PM   #2
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I'd be carefully looking for a broken injector or a flooded cylinder. Harbor Freight has cheap inspection cameras--I'd be looking at cylinder conditions, timing chains, etc. before trying to crank again.

Pulling injectors and gently trying to turn the engine over by hand would be a good idea...

"clunk' is NOT a good sound to hear...
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:32 PM   #3
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:35 PM   #4
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rmkrum-That is what I was thinking. No more starter with key until I know what the clunk is. Agree-Clunk is a BAD THING.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:40 PM   #5
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It does sound like you have hydro-locked a cylinder due to a bad injector. I would pull the injectors (make sure you number and mark placement), and try to rotate the motor using the starter, making sure you have some bowls under the injector lines to catch the fuel coming from the fuel pump.

I would have the injectors tested anyway as they have been sitting for so long.

It could be a motor mount as well, but I'm leaning towards the injector.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:44 PM   #6
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Why the motor mount? The engine rotated about a quarter rev and clunk.

I am reading about removing the injectors now. (Better to learn all this in the driveway instead of 1000 miles from home.
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Old 10-26-2017, 03:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DataMover View Post
Why the motor mount? The engine rotated about a quarter rev and clunk.

I am reading about removing the injectors now. (Better to learn all this in the driveway instead of 1000 miles from home.
When the starter engages it can rotate the engine off the mount a bit and when it settle
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:10 AM   #8
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1972 31' Excella 500
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Quick update. (Good News) I turned the engine over by the crankshaft nut (54mm or 2 1/8) socket and heard no clunk or strange sounds. Spun it over with the starter and all sounds normal. Chad at Hamilton Engines thought it might just be hydro-locked and didn't think the injector broke. Most likely stuck and allowed fuel into the cyl.

**If someone else has to turn their engine over by the crankshaft nut, it is really a tight squeeze to get in their as the Radiator shroud gets in the way.

Today I am going to pull the injectors and test them.

Here is a question for everyone. Should I document this process or just fix it and ask questions as they come up.
Thanks!
Bob
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:32 AM   #9
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Documentation is ALWAYS appreciated on the forum, especially if it includes pictures!

Thanks...
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:48 AM   #10
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Probably need to bleed the air from the fuel lines to each injector.
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Old 10-29-2017, 01:58 PM   #11
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Any update Bob?
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:33 PM   #12
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1972 31' Excella 500
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I removed all the glow plugs today. Spun the engine with the starter. Sounds good. A few more things to do and then I will start her up.

FYI:When removing the glow plugs from the power rail, you only have to loosen the top nut type fastener a few turns. There is also a 7mm nut on the glow plug located under the power rail. The power rail slides off the plug by pulling it toward the front of the engine. 12mm deep socket fits over the plug when the power rail is removed.

Here is what I am thinking. I will leave glow plugs out, spin with the starter and draw straight Diesel Kleen into the injector pump and run that into the injectors. Let it sit for a day or two and install injectors and start the engine.

I need too look at the hose that attaches the pipe from the turbo to the K&N filter. Close to the turbo, it looks cracked, but I have to crawl under and really inspect it.

I thought I would really dislike the engine inside the rv, but with the copilot sear,table and swivel chairs removed there is really a lot of room to work comfortably. I covered the floor with plastic and several layers of cardboard.

1-What is the best pathway to remove the alternator-Vacuum pump combo?
2-Are the only vacuum devices on the coach the vacuum step and cruise control? Is that the only two reasons for the vacuum pump?
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:35 PM   #13
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Glad to hear the motor is okay; I didn't think for one minute it wasn't as they are tough industrial beasts of motors.

Re K&N filter; take it out, wash it, inspect paper/fabric filiment for damage and re-oil it. You can also purchase a filter sock for it if you wish. DO NOT RUN MOTOR with no oil in filter!!

Why do you need to remove the alternator? The best way would be to remove the front driver wheel and access it from there. Be prepared for banged up knuckles.

If you're are taking out the alternator, it would be a great time to replace the belts with Mitsubishi 17mm metric belts, not Gates 1/2" belts. You don't want a belt to come apart and drag your throttle cable into the fan, (ask me how I know).

By the way the vacuum operates the step, cruise control, and controls for the dash air and heater, but if you read the link below, even that is up for discussion.

Smartstream (Dan) has the part numbers in this thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...ump-65561.html

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:58 PM   #14
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Tony-There is a bad/dry bearing on the Alternator/VacPump unit. It screeches when I spin the engine over. I didn't want to damage it if I needed it so I cut the two belts off (15 year rotted out anyway) to the Alt. I believe the belts also spin the water pump.

I bet that throttle cable/belt incident was really a pain!

Bob
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