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Old 12-10-2008, 07:33 PM   #29
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Dick,

It sounds like the dog house cover in your 79 is configured like our 74. Do you have the radio stand like Mike has in his 83?

Brad
Mine looks exactly like Mike's thumbnail of the dog house. Once taken off/apart, it is going to look a lot like your pic of the Argosy versus the classic.

Bill, I suspect that I could have taken the radiator out from above but it would have been a very odd angle and I would have had to remove the shroud first and that would have been a real PITA. Plus the radiator is very very heavy. Dropping it straight down seemed to be the way to go and I thought that I had sufficient clearance to remove it that way. I can also use a jack to re-attach. The radiator seems to be in good shape. My AS only has 40000 miles on it so the radiator is hardly broken in.

There is a small cylinder shaped gizmo (2" Dia by 4" long maybe )that is attached to the top of one of the studs that holds the thermostat in place. It is a 12 volt device of some sort that has two vacuum lines attached to the back and a place for 1 vacuum line (long since gone) on the front. It is rusty with no identification on it. Some sort of emissions control? Any idea? Mike gets his extra rivet if he can correctly identify.

dick
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by djurgensen View Post
Any idea? Mike gets his extra rivet if he can correctly identify.
Most coaches came with a water temp sensor, worked not very well.Had a buzzer on the dash. I'll take my #5 rivet now.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:07 PM   #31
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
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Most coaches came with a water temp sensor, worked not very well.Had a buzzer on the dash. I'll take my #5 rivet now.
No this seems to be vacuum activated valve or relay of some sort. It has no way of sensing temp that I can see. You may have to give up a hard earned rivet. Sorry.

dick
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:28 PM   #32
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Does the automatic step work when the door opens? There is a relay to the dash indicating that.
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:56 PM   #33
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Does the automatic step work when the door opens? There is a relay to the dash indicating that.
The automatic step works... but I don't think that it is reflected in any way on the dash. When the door is closed but not locked, a dash light flashes. I can trace the vacuum lines to see where they go. That might help.

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Old 12-11-2008, 06:40 PM   #34
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Mine looks exactly like Mike's thumbnail of the dog house. Once taken off/apart, it is going to look a lot like your pic of the Argosy versus the classic.

Bill, I suspect that I could have taken the radiator out from above but it would have been a very odd angle and I would have had to remove the shroud first and that would have been a real PITA. Plus the radiator is very very heavy. Dropping it straight down seemed to be the way to go and I thought that I had sufficient clearance to remove it that way. I can also use a jack to re-attach. The radiator seems to be in good shape. My AS only has 40000 miles on it so the radiator is hardly broken in.

There is a small cylinder shaped gizmo (2" Dia by 4" long maybe )that is attached to the top of one of the studs that holds the thermostat in place. It is a 12 volt device of some sort that has two vacuum lines attached to the back and a place for 1 vacuum line (long since gone) on the front. It is rusty with no identification on it. Some sort of emissions control? Any idea? Mike gets his extra rivet if he can correctly identify.

dick
dick- fwiw the cruise control (servo?) is located near there. it is cable driven w/vacuum lines and 12v. wiring. i say near there because the top air pump extends over the thermostat housing on mine.
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:33 AM   #35
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dick- fwiw the cruise control (servo?) is located near there. it is cable driven w/vacuum lines and 12v. wiring. i say near there because the top air pump extends over the thermostat housing on mine.
Bill.... that might be. I trace two vacuum lines back to the carb and think that the front "vacuum" line, long since gone, might not be a "vacuum" line at all.... very rusty. Could be a cable line. You may have something here.

I'll keep digging around. Sure am happy to have more access to the engine from above. Makes life almost tolerable.

dick
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:33 AM   #36
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Sure am happy to have more access to the engine from above. Makes life almost tolerable.
I prolly would have had the same problem had not a AS dealer that was going
out of business given me the factory manual. Whew!
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Old 12-13-2008, 07:27 AM   #37
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stopleak an option???

Well now... I get it all back together again, feeling like I have climbed a mountain and lived to tell about it and when I begin to put antifreeze in to get things actually running again and to observe the great work that my new WP and hoses and thermostat are going to do, I realize that I have numbeous smalll pin holes in the skin of the radiator.. caused by scraping against things on the way out and back in position.

Wow!!! What a pain. I have taken a perfectly usable 30 year old radiator and perhaps ruined it. Everything else looks good though (gallows humor).

I could have easily protected the radiator with cardboard cutouts taped to it to protect it from scrapes. Live and learn. I don't look forward to pulling the rad again. Any ideas for a super good radiator leak stopper???

dick
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:38 AM   #38
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Dick, I'd just bite the bullet and replace the radiator. The cooling strains that you're MH will have in the summer isn't worth the breakdown on the road on a trip... nor an expensive overhaul due to overheating....

I hate the idea of stopleak "stopping" somewhere I don't want it too either...

Besides, a 30 yr radiator is about due anyway.
sorry!
Marc
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:28 AM   #39
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Dick, I'd just bite the bullet and replace the radiator. The cooling strains that you're MH will have in the summer isn't worth the breakdown on the road on a trip... nor an expensive overhaul due to overheating....
I agree, both the diesel and the 454 run a little hot anyways. The plus side is you're pretty good at doing the job, now. I did get my Land Rover across Canada with oatmeal in the cooling system, but I was young, broke and lucky.
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:47 AM   #40
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Dick- Mark couldn't of said it any better. As far as I could tell mine was original so while I had it out I took it to the local radiator shop and he installed a brand new core, Made In USA, for $375.86. It wasn't leaking but he did point out some weak spots. According to my temp. guage it now runs almost 10 degree's cooler which is humungus, especially living here in the desert.
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Old 12-13-2008, 12:21 PM   #41
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the plot thickens!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Besides, a 30 yr radiator is about due anyway.
sorry!
Marc
Well...... I've got a 50 year old radiator on my 1958 M/B 190SL that is as good as the day it was built. Darn!!! This time I will take the A/C coils off and pull the rad up and out the front. Can probably do it in my sleep.(nightmare)

I would have been much better served to simply take the A/C coils loose and out of the way. That is what did all of the scraping.

Bill, at what point did you take the shroud off? Do you remember? Before or after you pulled the radiator.

dick
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Old 12-13-2008, 12:42 PM   #42
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Before or after you pulled the radiator.
My AS book says:
1) Remove engine oil cooler.
2) Remove air conditioner condenser.
3) Remove sheet metal splash panels.
4) Remove radiator.
5) Remove radiator support frame.
6) Remove radiator shroud.

Bear in mind, this is to remove the gas engine, so some things may not be
needed to just pull the radiator.
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