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Old 06-30-2013, 06:45 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmehal View Post
... Also what carb are you running?
Miss this question.

I've installed an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor rated at 600 CFM. From what I've read this carburetor should help with low end torque and gas mileage. I've installed an RV/Towing cam figuring that would help in the mountains and hills.

Brad
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:21 AM   #44
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Hey Brad FYI, here is the Dorman fitting I used on the intake. This is a JEG's link, but just bought here local.



Dorman Products 56360 Dorman Heater Hose Connectors & Fittings
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:25 PM   #45
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Chris, yesterday I found the same fitting at an Advance Auto Parts store. I think I paid $6 for it. Now I'm debating whether to buy a tap and drill or take it down to my local machinist and have him do it. I would likely spend more on the tap and drill so I'll probably have him do it for. At least that way I know it will be done right

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:27 PM   #46
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Well, I'm really close to starting this thing up. Need to fill it with water and oil, pre-lube it, install the distributor and plug wires and it should be ready to go.

With luck I'll have it running before next weekend so stay tuned...

Brad
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:36 PM   #47
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Fantastic news!
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #48
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Drats

I filled the cooling system today with water and just as I was adding the last 1/2 gallon I noticed a wet spot on the cardboard I had under the engine. Turns out one of the freeze plugs is weeping slightly

Obviously this isn't a real crisis but it is frustrating to have to deal with.

I did pull the oil pan drain plug and no water came out of that opening so I guess that's a good sign

Tomorrow I'll try and track down a freeze plug and drain the cooling system. Assuming no other leaks I should have this problem resolved shortly. Then it will be time to fill with oil and spin the oil pump to see what kind of oil pressure I get.

Brad
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #49
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Well double drats

I will say I'm glad that I have this engine on a test stand because if I had to replace that freeze plug with the engine in the motorhome I'd have filled up Tony's cuss jar in no time!

Removing the freeze plug was time consuming and took about 45 minutes to get it all the way out. Then the real fun began, in order to install the new plug I had to remove the motor mount The mount partially covers the freeze plug opening and there was no room for the socket to drive the plug into the cavity. I suppose if I had taken the time to turn something on the lathe I might not have had to remove the motor mount but there was no guarantee that I it would have worked. Plus I didn't have a large enough piece of steel round stock anyway so the point is moot.

Regardless, I'd hate to think of having to do this job with the motor in place in the chassis. But that job is done and after pressurizing again allowed the next leak to show up

Or should I say leaks

The easy one was the hose clamp needed to be tightened a little to get it to seal. The frustrating one is the gasket for the thermostat housing is weeping. That means I have to partially drain the cooling system to work on that one.

I think the cause of the gasket leak is the bottom of the thermostat housing is not perfectly flat. I knew this before installing it but assumed it would work as it had obviously been in use before. No such luck. I'm debating at the moment whether I should ignore the leak for now and just go ahead and try and get it running. It's just a few drops over a 5 minute period under 16 lbs of pressure. The other thing I didn't do while installing the thermostat housing was to use any sealant. I figured it wasn't necessary since I was going to be removing it after the test run to allow room to install the motor in the chassis. Live and learn

The good news is I've filled it with oil and spinning the oil pump builds up pressure So once I decide what to do about the water leak all I have left is to pre-lube one more time and install the distributor.

Stay tuned...
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:33 PM   #50
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Find piece of steel or really flat metal or wood. Put fine sandpaper on it and sand the thermostat housing surface until flat
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:06 PM   #51
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Channing, my real decision is whether to pull the thermostat cover now and fix it or wait until I'm at a point where I'm taking parts off in preparation for installing the motor in the chassis.

When I do finally take it off I do have a nice 3/4" thick sheet of glass that I use for flattening surfaces. The tough part is the housing is cast iron which means it will take more elbow grease to flatten

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:47 PM   #52
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Perfect! Glass!

Get emery cloth, spray with WD40 and use circular motion.

Do before you run on test stand
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:08 PM   #53
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I finally got the thermostat housing leak fixed. Flattened the bottom using a piece of 1/2" thick plate glass, a sheet of 220 wet/dry sand paper and WD40 (at Channing's suggestion). Took about fifteen minutes but it came looking good and flat enough to seal.

Re-pressurized the cooling system and it held at 16 psi for an hour or so. After that I figured it was time to try and start it up

Performed another pre-lube by spinning the oil pump with a drill motor and then installed the distributor. I wasn't happy with where the rotor placement ended up but felt it was good enough to get it running.

1st attempt at starting (video) - about 700 meg

Towards the end of the 2nd video you'll see why I would have preferred to have an assistant working with me

2nd attempt at starting (video) - about 500 meg

I'll explain more about what happened, what I need to do and a caution for others in my next post.

The good news is the engine runs, sounds good and has decent oil pressure

Brad
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:26 PM   #54
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I would replace all the freeze plugs. I bet the old one had a hole rusted in it. The others will follow soon.

Perry
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #55
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Perry,

It's a brand new engine. The freeze plug that was weeping didn't have proper sealant on it.

Brad
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #56
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Here's a little more info about the engine startup. After I spun the oil pump for a while to build up pressure I set the number one piston at TDC on the firing stroke. I then installed the distributor in what I though was the proper orientation. While trying to start it appeared to be backfiring. If you watched the 1st video you could see that I tried adjusting the timing slightly and it didn't help at all.

I finally gave up and went in the house to think about it for a while. The whole time I was trying to get it to run I kept thinking the distributor just didn't seem to be in the right position. So I decided to go back down to the shop and pull the distributor again and re-position it by one tooth. If you watched the 2nd video you probably noticed that it pretty much fired right off and ran fairly smooth. At least as smooth as a new carburetor with initial settings and just close enough timing will allow

Click image for larger version

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I needed to run the engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm to break-in the cam and lifters. I only got about three or four minutes before the little fire broke out on the spark plug cable. I'm not 100% positive but it sure looks like the boot of the plug was just touching the header and it generated enough heat to start the wire on fire. I was a little surprised by this because these were supposed to be wires that could take high heat. What is odd to me is the plug end didn't burn at all, just melted a little. But the one cable started burning and wouldn't go out. It spread to a couple of the other cables and started melting the throttle cable as well.

Click image for larger version

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I need to do some research on silicone spark plug wires and see if I can figure out why the wire started burning. I thought they were just supposed to melt and not burn. I would have hated to have these wires in the final installation. I know there are spark plug wires that will work because I ran those headers on a Chevy pickup for a couple of years and never had problems with spark plug wires.

The good news is the engine seems to run pretty decent. Now I just have to get a good set of plug wires installed and get through the 1/2 hour break-in period.

Brad
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