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Old 06-10-2013, 02:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by cmadmaxman View Post
Brad, I had to use the flex hoses on my rig after I had a leak in the top hose. The GM hoses as you found out, are not made any longer!! I changed the bottom hose as well at the same time. I fill look up the photo that I took of em. I have headers (Headman) on our coach, and put high temp sleeves on the spark plug boots. Have had no problem so far, 5 years. Make sure you put a heat shield on the starter. I also moved my connections for it up forward on the frame.
Chris,

Thanks for the photos and information on the insulation. I'm going to use the yellow spark plug cables on the 310 which has the Banks headers and are shaped different allowing for straight plug ends. I've found some that are angled 45 degrees and will give them a try.

Which heat shield did you use on your starter?

Brad
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:16 PM   #30
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Looking closer at Chris's picture it looks like the heat shield is a Mr Gasket #3678.

That's the shield I was planning on buying.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #31
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Starter cover

I do believe that is the one Brad. Good eye .

This is why I placed it on ours. This was done with the old cast manifolds and did not want to take chances to happen again! Also many un-fused main power leads from the battery's that had all the insulation burnt off, and bare ready, for a major short .
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:56 AM   #32
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All I can say is

It's scary to think wires that can pass that much current are laid bare like that. I'll definitely be doing some insulating and fusing in that area while I still have the engine out.

Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Brad
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:39 AM   #33
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Looks to me like you had an extensive exhaust leak. Radiant heat alone would not have melted the aluminum casing on the starter.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:14 AM   #34
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That is the plastic cover of the starter solenoid end, and tucked up under the old cast iron exhaust manifold. It was still working good.

The wires, yes to many years of unchecked exhaust leaks got them!
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:45 PM   #35
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Plastic, I see. That still got very darn hot. The battery cable is just plain scary.
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Old 06-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #36
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Just a quick update. I finished up the installation of the oil filler tube that runs from the front of the radiator to the top of the right side valve cover. Since those parts were missing from the Argosy when I got it I ended up salvaging them from the 345 that I dismantled.

I had to tweak the support bracket slightly and fabricate my own clamp due to the Argosy having the vertical radiator which is taller than the horizontal radiator that was used in the 345. Fortunately it didn't take much tweaking to get things to fit.

Attachment 189018Attachment 189019Attachment 189020

I also installed the dipstick tube from the 345. I had to bend the tube in a couple of places to get it to work. All I need to do is add a clamp at the top corner of the radiator and that project will be done.

Sometime to day I should finish the installation of a throttle cable/lever assembly that will let me set it to a fixed speed which is just what I need for the break-in period.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:09 AM   #37
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Chris,

I'm pretty sure that this picture is of your motorhome showing the air intake plenum. I've got the same plenum and I'm wondering how your valve cover breather hose is fastened to the plenum.

Did you thread and tap your plenum for 1/2" npt thread or did you just bore a hole? To me it looks like you tapped for 1/2" npt.

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Thanks!

Oh yeah, I'm just days away from trying to start the 454 for the first time!

Brad
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:32 PM   #38
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Yes Brad, I did drill and tap the intake. I did not put any filter on it, its filtered with the main filter.

Good luck on the test run. I did that with the 318's that I rebuilt for our old house boat.

Make sure you post a video of your test run!
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #39
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Are you going to keep the stock cooling fan? I upgraded to a twin Maradyne unit, love it. More power an a lot less noise. Just a thought. Also what carb are you running?
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:09 PM   #40
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I have built a few 454's. try to build up some oil pressure before you start ER up... Just to be sure and to wet the mains.

For wiring, install fusible links and use welding cable as it is ideal except like most things, there is a limit on heat it can take. Routing better than before will help.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:38 AM   #41
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Are you going to keep the stock cooling fan? I upgraded to a twin Maradyne unit, love it. More power an a lot less noise. Just a thought. Also what carb are you running?
Current plans are to keep the stock fan (actually from 1986 345) along with the two new 10" electric fans. Our 310 never has cooling problems with just the stock fan but the 310 dash A/C is a little weak and I think not having electric cooling fans for the condenser is part of the problem.

So the fans I'm adding to the Argosy are actually more for the dash A/C than they are for engine cooling. I might have to run a test with the stock fan removed to see what kind of results I get.

Brad
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:42 AM   #42
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I have built a few 454's. try to build up some oil pressure before you start ER up... Just to be sure and to wet the mains.

For wiring, install fusible links and use welding cable as it is ideal except like most things, there is a limit on heat it can take. Routing better than before will help.
Channing,

Thanks for the tips.

For the initial start-up I've been planning on spinning the oil pump until I get pressure and then I am going to manually rotate the crank, build up pressure again and repeat the process for several crank revolutions. Once that's done I'll re-install the distributor and try to fire it up.

As for wiring, I've got several hundred feet of various sizes of welding cable that I have been planning on using. I've seen a lot of mention lately on using fusible links so I'll have to look into sourcing some of those as well.

Thanks!

Brad
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