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Old 12-24-2012, 03:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 92landyacht View Post
Did you add a support to the back end of the engine?
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The rear support was actually more difficult to make than the center engine support. Several odd angles to deal with and had to work around the headers. The rear is hard mounted (no rubber isolation). The last engine I ran on the test stand which was a Triumph Spitfire 4 cylinder had no issues with the rear being hard mounted so I'm hoping the same holds true for the 454. If it was a long term installation I would have tried to figure out how to use a transmission mount but I didn't feel it was worth the effort.

I'm working on sorting out the radiator rubber mount isolators and once I have that done I'll be able to permanently mount the radiator. I'm hoping by mid to late January to be able to try and start the motor. Should be interesting!

Brad
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:52 AM   #16
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Made a little more progress over the last week or so. The radiator pedestals have been built. The wood blocks shown in the picture were used to determine height and fit. I've since made steel pedestals and once I finish assembling the front of the engine I'll mount the radiator.

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The water pump is mounted finally which now lets me try and sort out the A/C pump mount. Since those parts didn't come with the Argosy when I got it I've had to scrounge for parts. It looks like I'm missing one 5/8" spacer which should be a piece of cake to make on the lathe.

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The real challenge is trying to figure this last support brace. It doesn't fit no matter how I try and place it. The only thing I know about the mounting parts that I bought is they came from a 454 powered motorhome. I have no idea what brand of motorhome. The only thing I can think of is whatever 454 it came off of the coach manufacturer must have had something mounted on the engine block where this brace could attach to. I'm pretty sure it is supposed to go from the pump lower adjusting bracket pivot point to somewhere on the intake manifold. My plan is to modify it to go to the opposite side off intake manifold and call it good.

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Something else that has me baffled is the 5/8" hose fitting that screws into the intake manifold. It has a restricted orifice. I've never seen that before and I'm wondering if this is normal? The 454 came out of an 81 Chevy 1-ton dually pickup. Is this a normal fitting used in an automotive heating system?

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Any suggestions on whether to leave it or replace it with a full flow fitting like the one I have on the water pump?

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:20 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
...

Something else that has me baffled is the 5/8" hose fitting that screws into the intake manifold. It has a restricted orifice. I've never seen that before and I'm wondering if this is normal? The 454 came out of an 81 Chevy 1-ton dually pickup. Is this a normal fitting used in an automotive heating system?

Any suggestions on whether to leave it or replace it with a full flow fitting like the one I have on the water pump?

Thanks!

Brad
Hi Brad,

I've seen those fitting on a lot of 454s. There was one on my 1973 GMC pickup. Apparently you just don't need that much flow through a heater.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:24 AM   #18
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Vaughn, thanks for the info. It's nice to know it's a common occurance. I guess the safe thing to do would be to run it and see how well the heater works. If there isn't enough heat I can always enlarge the bore.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:18 PM   #19
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Just a quick update with some pictures to show the (slow) progress on the engine build. Finding all of the correct bracketry, nuts & bolts has been a real chore. I had to start from scratch by digging through vehicles at junk yards, ebay, looking at dozens and dozens of pictures and sometimes just plain guessing has gotten me this far.

The A/C mount has been the biggest challenge but I think I'm close. I have to shorten a little round spacer that I made by about .010" and figure out why the compressor seems to be slightly cocked in relation to the crank pulley. I'm beginning to think that the main aluminum casting was just machined that way. I'm not really sure I can do anything about that issue. When I looked at the 310 it seemed to be in a similar orientation.

The eagle eyed among you might have noticed that the A/C belt is rubbing on the power steering pump. I don't have the correct belt and I wanted to get a better feel for the pump pulley to crank pulley issue. Rest assured I will use a power steering pulley on the final installation

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The last thing I did was modify the top alternator mount to allow a nice big CS-144 alternator to be fitted. I salvaged two nice looking CS-144 124 amp alternators from a salvage yard for cheap and will be using one on the installation and one as a spare. I'll have them tested to make sure they are good before using either of them.

Surprisingly there are only two real modifications needed to fit the larger alternator. One is to enlarge the hole where the mount bolts to the intake manifold and the other was to bend that same ear slightly to account for the change in elevation of the mount due to the larger alternator. The only other change I made (but didn't need to) was to cut the ear off of the lower spacer. The original alternator had the spacer bolted to the back of the alternator via the ear. The only reason I can think of for the ear being there is to allow for easier installation on the assembly line. But that's pure conjecture.

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All that's left to finish up the front of the motor is install the power steering pump, get the correct belts, trim the small spacer and paint various pieces. I figure I'll hold off on the painting until I have the engine running and then when I'm read to install the motor in the Argosy I'll pull the alternator, A/C components and the power steering pump. After that its paint the parts and reassemble back onto the motor.

There are still more odds and ends to do before start up but its getting a little closer each day
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:59 PM   #20
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Over the last several months I've been slowly plugging away at finishing the 454 installation on the test stand. I'm closer but still have some things to do. Since I last updated this thread I've finished mounting the pair of 10" cooling fans to the front of the radiator and mounted the radiator on the test stand. I've installed the carburetor, headers (bolted in place), starter, and swapped the valve covers from the 86 345 onto the Argosy motor.

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I ran into a little snag this evening while trying to install the starter. When I fabricated the rear engine mount I didn't take into consideration the placement of the starter motor. So a little time with a 4" cutoff wheel and the starter fits

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I ordered a nice set of Prestolite spark plug cables and did a test fit this evening and found that they lay on the headers They are silicone and high temp but I don't think that rating applies to having them laying directly on the headers.

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The oem spark plug cables that came off of the 86 345 are physically about the same size and also lay on the headers when installed.

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The headers themselves were used with this same engine in a 1981 Chevy pickup and had these spark plug cables installed. They are considerably shorter and don't lay on the headers. But their quality is not all that great.

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Anyone have headers similar to mine and if so what have you used for spark plug cables?

I still have a bunch of small items to finish up on both the test stand and the engine but until I get the spark plug cable issue resolved I don't think I'll be trying to run the engine.

Brad
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:10 PM   #21
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One of the reasons I wanted to use the original radiator that goes in the Argosy instead of a generic radiator just to use on the test stand was because I wanted to be able to test fit the new radiator hoses. No one sells the OEM molded radiator hoses anymore so all that's available are the bend to fit style of hoses. The two hoses I purchases are Gates 26612 (lower) and Gates 25808 (upper). The overall fit doesn't seem to be to bad.

My only concern with the new upper hose is whether it bows up to high which means it could rub on the dog house cover. Unfortunately I won't know for certain until it's installed in the coach

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The lower hose seems to be a little bit shorter in overall length than the OEM hose but seems to fit otherwise. As long as something isn't in the area of where the hose curves towards the bottom it should fit. Also the new hose doesn't have a spring inside like the OEM hose does. Not sure if that is an issue or not.

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Old 06-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #22
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Brad, I had to use the flex hoses on my rig after I had a leak in the top hose. The GM hoses as you found out, are not made any longer!! I changed the bottom hose as well at the same time. I fill look up the photo that I took of em. I have headers (Headman) on our coach, and put high temp sleeves on the spark plug boots. Have had no problem so far, 5 years. Make sure you put a heat shield on the starter. I also moved my connections for it up forward on the frame.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:49 PM   #23
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Found the photos of the hoses that I used. I will have to dig deeper (other computer) for the ones for the spark plug boots and my starter hookup.
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Top hose: Dayco 81491 (the bend at radiator)
Bottom hose: Dayco 81351
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:08 AM   #24
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Spark plug boots

I used an industrial grade cover that can withstand molten aluminum that can protect hydraulics and electrical lines in a foundry. I protected the line along the frame and from the starter as well. The material is a high temp silicone with a fiberglass inside to keep it all together.
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Not the best looking out there, but it does a great job!
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:37 PM   #25
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I used an industrial grade cover that can withstand molten aluminum that can protect hydraulics and electrical lines in a foundry. I protected the line along the frame and from the starter as well. The material is a high temp silicone with a fiberglass inside to keep it all together.

Not the best looking out there, but it does a great job!
Headers look nice. Did they come painted/coated or did you paint/coat them? If you did it what did you use? I want to take mine off and clean them up but will do at the end of summer since I know that at least one header bolt will break on me.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:48 PM   #26
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Found the photos of the hoses that I used. I will have to dig deeper (other computer) for the ones for the spark plug boots and my starter hookup.

Top hose: Dayco 81491 (the bend at radiator)
Bottom hose: Dayco 81351
Thanks for posting those hose numbers! I used a Gates 22086 for the upper on the vertical radiator. It has all the correct bends in it but you have to cut about four inches off the thermostat end of the hose. I'm going to pick up that Dayco 81351 for a bottom spare though!
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:04 PM   #27
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Glad to see I'm not the only one using aluminum dryer venting as a cold air intake!
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:57 PM   #28
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Air intake

The Headman headers are brand new in the photo. They don't look quite that good now. They were just the standard coating from Headman.

That was my old air intake, I now a K&N like air filter at the grill and a 4" flex from Pegasus Motor Sports.
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