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Old 04-23-2008, 11:31 AM   #57
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Well, you saved a ton of cash as the
Flowmaster 52571

costs $151 vs your $21. Wow!

The Flowmasters are bigger for certain. Hope they last a while and are quiet enough for your use.
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Old 04-23-2008, 12:38 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
Not sure if the shelf was factory but looking at it tells me it was either factory or installed by the dealer. Just looking at the materials used.

Thinking about it we know it came from the commercial division so who knows what went on over there in the 80's.

You could place the cone air filter just about anywhere up front.
Glen,

I forgot yours was a commercial version. If you do have the opportunity sometime I wouldn't mind seeing a picture or two of your shelf installation.

I'm wondering if your horns were mounted there by the factory or did you install them?

Thank!

Brad
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:17 PM   #59
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Well the exhaust was finished and tried ... and... well... A little bit noisy!

We went to South West Wales with its very narrow and winding lanes, small cottages right on the kerb. Some of these houses on 1:4 hills, and us towing a KarKaddy with car as well.

We haven't had the bill yet but I think we must have rattled to destruction nearly every window down one lane to the camp ground for about 30 miles! That was with two glass packs each side.

It did sound very nice - for a race car ... but a MH? No I don't think so.

In the end I found an exhaust manufacturer in Nuneaton in the Midlands, and told my tales of woe. He made up two straight through mufflers 3 feet long 5" in diameter. After fitting those it was as quiet as a mouse - shame really I did get to like the (very loud) burble!

The upshot is I am now getting 12-13mpg towing a small Vauxhall Corsa (GM UK) car on a KarKaddy, and the more miles I do the quieter it gets (as the man said it would). It is like driving a limo now.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:11 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-79MH View Post
Yeah, Frank, so I decided to follow my own advice and installed a new ignition module.
Guess what, I barely made it around the block @ 7 mph. The new module was bad. Funny, huh?
Another bit of advice - pop for the extra dollars to get a OEM Delco module, as the failure rate on its tiwanese/chinese counterparts is extremely high!! That part and the cap and rotor for that matter, live in a very "hostile" environment in our MH's, don't ya know!!
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:01 PM   #61
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Hey guys, when you replace the Ignition module be sure and put the dielectric lube on the bottom of the module to conduct the heat away. If not applied, it will be toast pronto. I am glad to have the old GM HEI ignition in my 1984. One module I can deal with better than 25 on-board computers like today's autos.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:48 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankR View Post
An ignition modual is required parts for any RV. Learn to change this important part. With a little training, you will never be on a hook. Get one for your engine. Frank
It is worth the couple of dollars extra to get the "genuine" delco module vs the "no name" module that routinely comes from a province in Tiawan or China. That module lives in a severe environment, and as such, needs all the help it can get. Same holds true for the cap, rotor and coil. This is one area where it is not wise to shop too much for a"bargain!" As such,
it can be a very expensive bargain!!! Don't ask how I know!! Guess I had already offered this bit of sage advice earlier, but it still holds true!
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:53 PM   #63
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By all means buy the Delco-Remy Module. Every time I find an older GM dealership, I buy the module from them. Usually the turn on modules has slowed down now, and the dealer will come closer to having one made in the USA before the far East guys got in the module business.
Mike
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:06 AM   #64
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Smile 7.4 L tune-up

Update Post on the thread. HEI module replacement is on the money in this post. Replacing Plug Wires: Very important!! wires running to cylinders 5 & 7 must be kept well separated to prevent induction firing (crossfiring) These wires should cross each other at 90 degree angles to prevent crossfiring. On the mufflers: I just replaced my stock units with FlowmasterII 70 Series for Big Block RV engines. Noise level outside is some louder, without added resonance inside coach. Not too loud by any means, but deeper sound.
Mike
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:39 AM   #65
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Mike, I refer to that sound as being "round" and there's no mistaking it for a big block.

A word of caution. When the weather is nice with window open on the driver side and you're in stop and go traffic make sure you don't get too attached to the sound. You'll find your right foot getting a little too happy and your fuel economy will suffer.
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:08 AM   #66
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My wife says my foot is too "happy" even before the Flowmasters.
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:06 AM   #67
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This is one for 'Chuckles' from Dorset, I have 86 345 MO and had a guy in Brixton,London, make me two mufflers (one for each side) 16" long by 6" diameter 2 1/2" diameter straight throughs and full length 2 1/2" tail pipes in stainless steel for 232 all in. You can tell it's a big block but it's not too loud to bug you and I can feel the better torque in the drive now that I took off the air injection that went with the old system. The standard headers will need to go also, but that's one for next winter.
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:49 AM   #68
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"Sounds" good Moonshine! - (sorry about the pun)

I must say I am very pleased with my mufflers and true to the chap who made them, they are getting quieter each time out - in fact it is almost as quiet as a car!

Performance remains good although I am having difficulty setting the mixture exactly. In panic before the MOT I managed to reduce the emissions well down but now wonder about overall performance - will find that out on our next trip to Oswestry later in June. I set up the rebuilt QJet with a vacuum guage and it seems OK - we shall see.

Just completed the GV fitting and that does exactly what they say it does , drop them by about 500-600 when over 45mph.

Good luck with the headers. My Summit ones are OK but the gaskets are something else - constantly tightening the bolts. By the way go the extra and get the replacement S/S HT bolts with locks by Summit.

My only regret at this stage is to run the exhausts each side; not down one side (Drivers). Why? The only place to fit a second LPG tank for a conversion is between the prop and the chassis. I want to replace the large (120) Domestic tank with a liquid take off for the engine conversion, and fit a vapour take off narrow tank in the space between prop and chassis, for Domestic. Still cant find that narrow tank!
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:54 AM   #69
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BTW
Nice to know there is another AS MH here. We had a 345 here last year for preparation, and although in a bit of a state, they do have their finer points.

Let is keep an eye out for each other...
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:38 AM   #70
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Chuck,

I have a GV on mine already and its great for RPM and MPG mine came with a LPG kit, but it takes it's gas from the big tank too. SO is the LPG gas we get from a fuel station the same as the gas we would cook with ? (as i'm not sure what sort of gas I should fill it with). so can I make this work ? as I am going to drop the big tank to get it powder coated (pressure tested first) as it has some outside corrosion. Thanks for the bolt kit advice, as far as emissions go my MOT guys just laghed when I said how big the motor was

Regards Paul
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