454 to Cummins

[choctawmel]

Got my 7" fans out to install on the 7" top heat exchangers and the fans turn out to be 8". I had a short piece of little weight 1X1" aluminum angle that works as a shroud to keep the air flow where it should be.

And as they look mounted on the transmission exchanger w/another exchanger heat exchanger just above it.

Of course the radiator shroud is still not complete. Not sure how to solve this one.

Then on the left side as I was pulling the fans on the intercooler heat exchanger I decided I should check steering control area clearance and it didn't. Had to move the fairing down about a 3/4"

Filled the radiator and started work on finding RPM. Output off the alternator was zero at idle and over the top with a little throttle. The wires off the crack pickup looked like they had been eat off by rats w/no color difference. I had spliced 3 wires (+5V, ground, +12V) onto it in case I may need to use it and I had bought a 12-5V power supply. Well I needed if and the dang think must be bad.
SO! It's time to reverse course and take the radiator back out to replace the pickup. The dang thing cost over $100. About to head to the local Dodge dealer and drop some buck. With it having a plug and having a 1996 manual it will be a breeze to wire.
Another BIG THANK YOU Gary for the greatest gift ever: One 1996 Dodge truck manual.

[GCinSC2]

Mel,

Is it the speed/crank sensor?

Here's a possible from Geno's Garage Sensors (Electrical) - Second Generation ('94 - '02) - SENSOR - SPEED/CRANK POSITION - CUMMINS ('89 -'97, 5.9L)

I'm glad the FSM has a new home and you're right the wiring sections is invaluable.

Gary

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Mel,

Is it the speed/crank sensor?

Here's a possible from Geno's Garage Sensors (Electrical) - Second Generation ('94 - '02) - SENSOR - SPEED/CRANK POSITION - CUMMINS ('89 -'97, 5.9L)

I'm glad the FSM has a new home and you're right the wiring sections is invaluable.

Gary

Looks like it. Ordered one yesterday morning. Hopefully get in tomorrow.

Drained the radiator and got it out so I can get to it. Wish I could figure a way to make the radiator easy in/out. On a hinge? Fold out? Maybe on a slide?

Today's the day I pull the drain out of the gas tank and take my gas shower/bath. Start filling w/diesel.

Don't look like I'll make it to the muffler this week as planned.

[tevake]

Good progress there Mel, getting close now,
Thanks for the detailed reality check on engine type changes.
Really calls for skills, determination and more cash that you'd think.

Looking forward to your shake down report.
Hang in there, the test run is a boost for sure.
Even if a bit messy.

Cheers Richard

[choctawmel]

Well, I have the radiator out, so put in the frame and work on the fan shroud some. Taking pieces off the Chevy shroud and screwing on the Dodge shroud. Manage to drill a hole into my finger too. That hurt .

Laid fiberglass cloth on the cracks and coated with PVC cement. It don't stick very good but hopefully it'll stay.
Got the radiator back in with the new crank speed pickup on. Wired my 12 to 5V power supply up to it and hooked the tach up and NOTHING!!!! About $150 down the toilet.
So I get a big drain pan and pull the drain on the gas tank...... Nothing! Last time I caught about 6 gallon and got soaked with gas and it ran out the shop. I ran for the water hose and did the chemical emergency wash!! I still have the front on jack stands, so I drop the front down, still no gas. This means I got the in tank pump pickup at the right depth.
It's time to pull the fuel line out of the 2 1/2 gallon can the pour it in the tank. Took a punch and hammer to make the 'unleaded only' restrictor a thing of the past.

Now I have the fuel lines hooked to the tank.
I installed a spin on gas filter on the frame, so, I'm thinking I'll get a diesel filter w/drain to replace it... Not! That'll be a problem for later. I dump the gas out and reinstall the one I got.
Ever time I call the TCI people, the only guy who knows anything about the old (5 years old) transmission controller I had "Is out for the rest of the week". So Monday I'll try to get on the horn to him.
Now that she's back down on all 8 wheels the front fairing is 9" off the ground. No bush wacking with this baby!
I ran a wire back up the the 'R' on the back of the alternator. With tach out of dash, I'll try to get it to read as I adjust the screw on the back.
BOY!!! The care Airstream took in wiring the dash..... What a mess!!!!
I hope to have the A/C back on and the the grille on tomorrow. Then I'll bring the laptop down and see if my vista computer will see the TCI so I can program it!
May just take it for a spin, of course no exhaust at all on it, just the turbine down tube.
It's Friday night in the big town... Time for a (another) beer

[choctawmel]

Today was a short day. Have bicycle build for the Salvation Army Christmas Connection and a mission meeting.
The 'R' from the alternator don't work. Called "Summint Racing and ordered and Stewart Warner 82620 tach that I hope will work.
Was running the motor and pouring transmission fluid in.... and it died! Just like that! I crank it and it don't hit a lick. Only thing that can be wrong..... no fuel. I open one of the injector nut... No fuel! I go take the cap off the tank and I can't hear the fuel pump.... The new in tank pump quit! I get my new cheap VOM out and find no voltage on the wire I thought was ignition. Rewire, turn on ignition with two injectors loose and I have diesel everywhere before I can get them tighten again. Hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and have 20 psi.
Power steering works as will as brakes! All go signs!
I weld some brackets on the 6-4" exhaust adapter and mount it on the top of the radiator frame.
Go to put the A/C condenser on.... But, I need a new dryer and it's got mounting bolts on the bask of the condenser, so, no grill on this weekend.
Tried to program the TCI and the 'VISTA' don't see the device. I shows it as 'on line' but will not program. I need 'Windows 10'. RATS

[Kota]

A bunch of us use these PH filters/primer pumps.

http://ph.parker.com/us/en/spin-on-filter-pump-systems

This and the cummins lift pump work very well together. Very popular in the marine diesel world. You can run it continuous duty if you have a lift pump failure.

I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the input to the high pressure pump. Very useful for indicating filter and feed issues to the P1700. To reprime, just push the button.

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by Kota

A bunch of us use these PH filters/primer pumps.

Spin-On Filter Pump Systems | Parker NA

This and the cummins lift pump work very well together. Very popular in the marine diesel world. You can run it continuous duty if you have a lift pump failure.

I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the input to the high pressure pump. Very useful for indicating filter and feed issues to the P1700. To reprime, just push the button.

Now that I'm plumbed into the tank, I have a fuel pressure gauge and it's running a steady 20psi going into the lift pump from the in tank pump. Will deal with the filter on the frame at a later date. I'm sure I'll be able to find a filter w/drain to fit the housing.
Now I wait till Monday to get a A/C dryer, and Friday for the tach.

[Keyair]

Awesome job Mel!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by choctawmel

The 'R' from the alternator don't work. Called "Summint Racing and ordered and Stewart Warner 82620 tach that I hope will work.

Mel,

Have you got your tach to work yet?

I was looking through the box of Teleflex gauges that I've accumulated and stumbled across this tach that I had bought.



If you'll notice on the back of the tach it says: O/B Alternator and has settings for 4-pole, 6-pole, 10-pole and 12-pole.

Do you think this tach would solve your problem?

I also found this link for information on Teleflex diesel tachometers and troubleshooting them.

Brad

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Mel,

Have you got your tach to work yet?

I was looking through the box of Teleflex gauges that I've accumulated and stumbled across this tach that I had bought.

Attachment 253604Attachment 253605

If you'll notice on the back of the tach it says: O/B Alternator and has settings for 4-pole, 6-pole, 10-pole and 12-pole.

Do you think this tach would solve your problem?

I also found this link for information on Teleflex diesel tachometers and troubleshooting them.

Brad

Don't know. I got a tach from Summit Racing today. Got 12 post alternator and 2 1/2" pulley to a 7" crack. Wired it up and it don't read till I get to 1700 rpm. Summit thought I may need a 'sender'. Will call the gauge people in morning.
been trying to get a hole of 'Kevon' at TCU. He is the only one that knows anything about my controller. He was gone last week and I've been trying to call him this week. his voice mailbox is full and I learned today that he'll be back Monday. I may have to buy a new transmission controller.
Got the Silver Bullet out and drive to the gas station. On the way I blow one of the heater hoses off. I'd tighten the hose clamp to the fitting not the hose. Had to use the wife's drinking water to go on.
Runs good, but the tranny isn't shifting. The speedometer isn't working. W/O tach I'm afraid to get too bad on the accelerator peddle.
Maybe tomorrow I get an exhaust system on it.

[bkahler]

Mel,

PM me your mailing address and I'll sent this tach to you. It's a match for the other gauges in your dash and I'm thinking it will work in your configuration.

Brad

[choctawmel]

Yesterday it was time to go to the muffler shop and get the exhaust system. Mr. Murphy showed as I notices that the volt gauge seemed to get lower and lower. That the muffler shop the muffler guy, "That's too big to go on my rake, I can't do it." Mr. Murphy II. The battery is now too low to start. I call the alternator shop, I'm 5 miles away and he says to bring it by. I unhook all the electric cooling fans and use the house battery. By the time I drive the 5 miles, not enough juice to make the turn signals work. First thing the alternator guy says, "Oh, you have a battery isolator." Then I remember why I didn't use a one wire alternator before, with the battery isolator no voltage to the alternator to excite it. Moved the chassis wire to the center post and all is charging. AND now the speedometer is working. May be the problem getting the tach to work will be solved also.
So, I check me iphone for another muffler shop and hit the interstate. She will go 60mph. But here comes Mr. Murphy again. The engine pulls good, then it don't????? The second shop can do it with a stock 454cid muffler. I don't think that to be a good idea and it's well into the afternoon so I head home. Now this engine problem gets worse and worse. I'm hoping the injector pump isn't going. In the 15 miles home it pulls good for a couple seconds then no power for a couple seconds. Either the lift pump is block the fuel or the injector pump is DOA! Will pull the fuel line off the lift pump and go directly to the injector pump. If you cheap Glow Gear fuel pressure gauge is right, it's pegged at 30psi so there's over 30 psi into the lift pump/filter.

I got a little over $9K into this. If the IP is bad, that'll be another $12-1500. AND the front will all come off again.

Maybe I'll just mothball this and go buy a trailer and out of here!!!!

[Keyair]

Keep going Mel!
Wxbouy had a similar sound issue with his Cummins... I think it turned out to be filter blockage or something.
Is it not possible to have a fuel pressure gauge somewhere that will tell you if pressure if dropping off and give you a clue?

[GCinSC2]

Try a fuel filter? My 12V didn't make power with a clogged filter.

[GCinSC2]

Mel, in for a penny, in for a pound.

[choctawmel]

I do have a spin on gas filter on the frame that I installed w/the 454. I tried the Cummins filter but wrong threads, so I dumped the gas out and reinstalled. I have the cheapy Glow Gear fuel pressure gauge inline to the lift pump. I only reads up to 30 psi and is pegged out. The lift pump to the injector pump runs from 17 to 35 psi. I don't know what that pressure is w/o temperately installing a fluid gauge with a pin an 1/8" pin valve. And the IP is somewhere around 2-3000 pounds. It takes special equipment to read it. If I take the lift pump and filter out of line and got straight to the IP. Just can't get the ump up to go take the right front wheel off and get on my knees. Need to buy a new bag of floor dry. I used up all I had with the 3 gallon transmission flood.

Would it be sacrilegious to own both a AS motor home and an AS trailer?????

[Isuzusweet]

[QUOTE=choctawmel;1722315
Would it be sacrilegious to own both a AS motor home and an AS trailer?????[/QUOTE]

Just ask Peter as he has a 310 moho and a 31' limited.....That being said, it's not recommended to tow a 31' with the 310.

As for your fuel issue, let me get this straight.....You're running a gas fuel filter for a diesel? That would be a no-no in my book as the filtration rate would be different and the filter would not be big enough to process enough fuel for the motor. Many stand alone diesel water separators/fuel filters, even with preheat options that you can use.


http://www.westmarine.com/buy/racor-...06_180_003_550

Also did you replace all fuel lines and filler hoses with diesel spec parts? Diesel fuel may degrade and eventually dissolve rubber fuel lines that were used on gas rigs.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/f...el-fuel-21695/

As for injection pressure I know my Landcruiser diesel 1725 pounds actuated the injectors. I don't know what pressure the Cummins runs.

When John (Shepherd57) picked up his NU2HM 325 turbo diesel, it had sat around along time and the fuel filler hose had started to disintegrate into tiny little black bits. Falling down to the bottom of the tank, the fuel pickup picked up these bits and proceeded to clog the first of two fuel filters on our beasts. The resulting drive home for him was identical to what you experience. Everytime he stopped and the motor wasn't asking for as much fuel and the flow rate went down, some of the bits would drop off the filter allowing more fuel through the filter. He would get a bit down the road and under load the coach would bog down again. It got to a point when he was almost home that the coach would only travel a few hundred meters or so before losing power.

Start at the least expensive and work your way up to the most expensive.

Cheers
Tony

[choctawmel]

Attachment 253768
This is a Siera 18-7845 fuel filter. I am getting over 30 psi past this filter to the lift pump. So I don't think this gas filter is the problem right now. I just haven't gotten a-round-to-it to order the 18-7968 filter w/drain.
As for the hose/lines? I replaced the return line with 3/8" Stainless. The pressure line is 3/8" hose from tank to 1/2" stainless along the frame to 3/8" hose to engine, and all the hose is 'high pressure' fuel injection hose. The in tank fuel pump has a screen/sock on it. None of the farmers I know had has any problems with the plane-jane hardware store hose.
I think the problem is on the engine.
Had to get some yard work done today before the rain that may come.

And it's 5:00 somewhere.... It's close enough here. I'm off to talk to my keg.

[choctawmel]

well for some reason it didn't like the picture of my filter, so, one more time