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Old 07-14-2006, 11:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Do not put a raceing cam in your motorhome! It will just burn more gas and you will need a tow truck to pull you up hills. Use a truck or RV cam. They are designed / ground to give you low end / or low RPM torque which is necessary to pull heavy loads.
Raceing cams, on the most part eliminate low end torque; That is why race cars use high stall speed torque converters to get the engine RPMs up high enough to have enough power to get the car moving.
Bob

Uh, I was kidding about the racing cam.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:01 PM   #30
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I'll second Scott's statement about the cam and lifters being considered a matching set. You shouldn't replace one without replacing the other.
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Old 07-17-2006, 04:38 PM   #31
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Thanks for all the great advice. I have done everything suggested that I can do in my driveway. I found a shop that works on trucks, and has 2 Chevy p-30 specialists that used to work for the local Chevy commercial truck dealership. The estimate for a valve job on both sides was $1500. They want to do all their own testing as well, but at no charge!

OK - READY FOR THE FREAKY PART ???

I pulled out of the driveway to "limp" her to the mechanic shop - I even mapped out a route that would alow me to keep it at 30mph without backing up traffic. But now - the engine runs great. All my power is back. Hit the gas and it throws ya back in the seat. Flew down the freeway at 70mph and had power to spare. The drive to the mechanic shop was like I had a different (new) coach. I pulled into the shop and told the manager I had been talking to, and he just laughed and said that's why they like to do their own testing.

So what the heck !!!???!!!???!!!???

Dazed and Confused,
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:09 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tx-lawman
Thanks for all the great advice. I have done everything suggested that I can do in my driveway. I found a shop that works on trucks, and has 2 Chevy p-30 specialists that used to work for the local Chevy commercial truck dealership. The estimate for a valve job on both sides was $1500. They want to do all their own testing as well, but at no charge!

OK - READY FOR THE FREAKY PART ???

I pulled out of the driveway to "limp" her to the mechanic shop - I even mapped out a route that would alow me to keep it at 30mph without backing up traffic. But now - the engine runs great. All my power is back. Hit the gas and it throws ya back in the seat. Flew down the freeway at 70mph and had power to spare. The drive to the mechanic shop was like I had a different (new) coach. I pulled into the shop and told the manager I had been talking to, and he just laughed and said that's why they like to do their own testing.

So what the heck !!!???!!!???!!!???

Dazed and Confused,

Well, your professional mechanic friend certainly had nothing to gain by being less than honest in his diagnostics, so I bet there probably is compression loss in #7 at least part time, which seems more like a sticking valve as opposed to a bent one. I got a hunch this isn't the real problem, though. Thing is, I guess you can't know how well it's supposed to run if it's had compression loss the entire time you've driven it, both when running crappy, and when running a lot better.

It'll be interesting to see what the shop's computer says.
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Old 07-17-2006, 06:59 PM   #33
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Troy,
I'm with Dave, leave it at the shop and explain everything. Even offer to pay for the test if they find nothing (or something simple). Worst case, they confirm your neighbor's findings and it's already on the schedule for a valve job.

58,000 miles isn't a lot on and engine in a daily driver, but motorhomes frequently give it up in the mid fifties due to LACK of use. Low mileage on an older unit is not always a good thing unless the PO was meticulous about maintenance and proper storage.

Also, I still think you should go back to the selling dealer. The further you go down this path the harder it'll be to go back to the dealer.

For now, just think good thoughts about your valves....maybe you'll get lucky?
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:48 PM   #34
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I value your advice - and I am giving the dealer a personal visit tomorrow. I will be armed with the written estimate.
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Old 07-17-2006, 10:56 PM   #35
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I would be in agreement with the stuck valve verses bent ,but the pushrod
did take a hit ,anyway I don't think the good running part will last ,valve
gets stuck for very few reasons.

Let us know
Scott
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Old 07-18-2006, 07:49 AM   #36
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Hidden Fuel Filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

If I remember right, the P30 has two fuel filters... did you change both of them? I think Steve Webster had a problem with fuel starvation onthe freeway, but it would run at lower speeds... the second filter was the culprit if I remeber right. I believe you can also put an inline fuel pressure gauge prior to the TBI"s. You'll want to check fuel pressure at idle and at speed. Fun driving with the doghouse off! But really, first, I'd check those fuel filters again... and make sure your plugs weren't fouled by being in the wrong firing order. Also, make sure those spark plug wires aren't burned or faulty.
Let us know more!


Marc
Marc may be on to a possible solution! I recently owned a 1985 22' Winnebago, with the notorious 454, that had a "hidden" fuel filter mounted on the chassis about midway between the tank and the engine. This pre-filtering installation was apparently an attempt to overcome the build-up of rust that commonly occurs in the fuel tank of a seldom-used MH. This problem is often aggravated when the tank is left almost empty during storage. For the engine to suddenly - or sporatically - run smooth sure seems to suggest intermittant fuel starvation. On the other hand, in the absense of the "hidden" filter, the intermittant fuel starvation could still be caused by the conditions just mentioned - i.e., by virtue of large "globs" of rust blocking the intake in the tank - and then, due to motion of the vehicle, or by simply filling the tank, the "globs" temporarily move aside. I even considered purging my fuel tank, but replacing the filters did the job for me.
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:05 PM   #37
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I searched everywere and could only find 1 fuel filter on my unit. It is the large metal one that screws into the primary alumn. fuel line about 3 feet in front of the rear axel on the passenger side frame. Where is the 2nd??
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:17 PM   #38
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Troy, often hidden on the inside of the frame rail way back. Just get on your creeper and follow the line from the carb all the way back to the tank.
Don't forget to gently blow back when you have the big filter off so as to clear the sock filter on the pickup in the tank too.
Happy hunting...
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:17 PM   #39
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Glen - you just described the one I know about. I asked the mechanic at the shop it's at now, and he said there is only one for my unit as it is fuel injected.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:37 PM   #40
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FINAL UPDATE !

I visited my baby in the shop and they told me it is completely healed, and will be ready for pickup tomorrow morning! Total bill - $900

He had two mechanics go over everything with a fine tooth comb and spent their entire day on it. He found it was a combination of several problems, the biggest of which was a stuck lifter. They are roller lifters on this unit, and they got it freed up and checked everything else under the valve covers including the disassembly and inspection of everything. Final compression check was 140 lbs on all 8. He replaced my new autolite plugs with ac delco platinum, and cleaned the fuel injectors (tied a machine into the fuel line at the filter to shoot high pressure cleaner through). The fuel pressure tested at 35lbs (factor specs 28-32). He had to change the oil again (said they put too much crap into it during the disassembly of everything under the valve cover). I had them go ahead and do the flush transmission service (machine that pushes everything through). During the testing they did find a slight backpressure from the cat - which was taken care of.

Anyway, he said it drives like a dream. I was there when it was getting heated up for the oil change, and I was impressed at how quiet and smooth it was running.

We will be taking it to the local state park this weekend for a trial run.

I plan to extend the air intake down to a cone in the grill, which will be my first modification from the original design.

Thanks for all the help, from the looks of the list he gave me at the shop, you were all right!
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Old 07-19-2006, 01:25 AM   #41
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Im certain all here wish very good luck on your outing and keep us posted
how it runs .

Scott
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:11 AM   #42
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Troy,
Great news! Glad to hear it was something they could R&R in the rig. Now go ENJOY your new motorhome!
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