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Old 06-13-2016, 06:05 AM   #29
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Franklin Park , Illinois
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3-0 psi pressure

I got a reading of 3-0 with the electric pump installed and NOT running
Engine was just idling
Pressure would start at 3 and slowly drop to 0 in about 3 minuets
With the electric pump
Running and engine at idle the pressure starts at 5 and slowly drops to 4
I agree gauge might not be 100% accurate but I believe it's close
I still haven't gone for a test drive as I doing other repairs on the Motorhome in my driveway
I expect to get out and actually drive it maybe tue. Or wed. Of this week
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:23 PM   #30
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grosspoluter View Post
I got a reading of 3-0 with the electric pump installed and NOT running
Engine was just idling
Pressure would start at 3 and slowly drop to 0 in about 3 minuets
With the electric pump
Running and engine at idle the pressure starts at 5 and slowly drops to 4
I agree gauge might not be 100% accurate but I believe it's close
I still haven't gone for a test drive as I doing other repairs on the Motorhome in my driveway
I expect to get out and actually drive it maybe tue. Or wed. Of this week
The only reason I can think of is the engine idle speed is low enough the at idle the pump produces very little pressure. Probably just enough to keep fuel in the bowl and that's about it.

I assume once you rev the engine the pressure builds back up?
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:58 AM   #31
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1976 28' Argosy 28
Middletown , California
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The carburetor is now rebuilt. Is there a thread on tuning a quadra jet? What all entails adjusting to ensure it runs fine if it's just been rebuilt? Good YouTube video?
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:34 AM   #32
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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Anyone with reasonable skill can use a kit on a Qjet, but getting the passages clean, making sure the shaft bores are not oversized due to wear and getting the plates to seal are not done in a weekend rebuild.
I still believe that having a GOOD carb shop is the best way to go with a Quadrajet rebuild, they know all the little qwerks and how to fix them.
For the brave, this link has the 4M 4MV & 4MC Quadrajet service manual.
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/R...QJet/index.php
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:19 PM   #33
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1976 28' Argosy 28
Middletown , California
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Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
Anyone with reasonable skill can use a kit on a Qjet, but getting the passages clean, making sure the shaft bores are not oversized due to wear and getting the plates to seal are not done in a weekend rebuild.
I still believe that having a GOOD carb shop is the best way to go with a Quadrajet rebuild, they know all the little qwerks and how to fix them.
For the brave, this link has the 4M 4MV & 4MC Quadrajet service manual.
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/R...QJet/index.php
Thanks, I didn't tackle that feat myself. Left it up to a good carb shop for sure. All I felt confident enough to do was pull the four bolts out and get it there, and putting it back in. I just don't know how to set the jets and idle screws..
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:59 PM   #34
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1977 28' Argosy 28
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You use a vacuum gauge .and a tachometer.
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:16 AM   #35
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1976 28' Argosy 28
Middletown , California
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I did indeed! I figured out the carb, purring like a kitten. Also, dash gauges were flickering when I turn the headlights on and use blinkers. Regrounded the fuse panel box to the chassis with thick gauge wow and that seems to have fixed it. Just in case anyone else is having a similar problem. Although the left turn signal seems dimmer and weaker than the right, at least the dash gauges aren't going off the wall hah
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:41 AM   #36
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1978 28' Argosy 28
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Although the left turn signal seems dimmer and weaker than the righth
Crawl underneath and chase the wires from the turn signal. I bet they're corroded somewhat giving you a poor connection. My headlights did the same thing. About 20 minutes and some new spliced ends and connectors gave me back my headlight. Time and weather sure take their toll under there.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:18 PM   #37
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1976 28' Argosy 28
Middletown , California
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Originally Posted by bpg_austin View Post
Crawl underneath and chase the wires from the turn signal. I bet they're corroded somewhat giving you a poor connection. My headlights did the same thing. About 20 minutes and some new spliced ends and connectors gave me back my headlight. Time and weather sure take their toll under there.
Awesome! Thanks will do.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:21 AM   #38
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Sausalito , California
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We had the same problem with vapor lock - poor acceleration, having to pump the pedal, and sometimes total stalls and waiting for it to cool down so the fuel could phase shift again - and discovered an electrical problem killing the rear fuel pump. There's a thread here about it but I've forgotten where it is. One of the experts here can send you to it.
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