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Old 12-27-2008, 05:34 PM   #15
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Hi, I agree with some of the posters that it sounds more like an electrical problem, especially if it happens when hitting a bump in the road. While looking at the wireing in the engine compartment, look for tell, tell signs of Mickey Mouse. [droppings or chewed wire looms] Mice like to have a warm place to live and like to chew on wires. I have seen practically brand new cars and trucks with mouse chewed wire looms. They seem to like the intake manifold area so we have seen lots of injector wires chewed up.
I've had mice feeding on my house wiring, cars, my tractor and mower. Butr no sign in the AS.
mel
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Old 12-27-2008, 05:54 PM   #16
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Today I looked for a fuel pressure gauge but found only an in-line one. I can't see it going down the road at 60mph, did find one on the internet, but can't get it before I go south.
I check and lubed all the plugs, checked the pins, checked the EGR valve, they want $42 for a block plate, so, sealed it and put it back in.
I'm wrapping the headers just in cast.
I did find the vamuum tube to the MAP to be loose at the 'F Port' on the TB and put a clamp on it.
Also, after 4 years I read the installation instruction again (or maybe for the first time) and noted, "The MAP sensor is installed in the air cleaner or air track ahead of the TB unit." Which it is not. That will be Sunday afternoon job.
Thanks for the contiued help.
mel
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Old 12-27-2008, 07:01 PM   #17
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Where is your MAP installed now?
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:09 AM   #18
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Where is your MAP installed now?
cable tied behind the air cleaner housing
mel
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:10 AM   #19
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I am going to go back 40 years to a problem I had with a VW. When the engine was hot it would cut out and then go without reason. Spent several days of our vacation in upper New York state until a farmer standing next to me in motor parts suggested the coil. The coil was cracked.
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:53 PM   #20
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I am going to go back 40 years to a problem I had with a VW. When the engine was hot it would cut out and then go without reason. Spent several days of our vacation in upper New York state until a farmer standing next to me in motor parts suggested the coil. The coil was cracked.
I replace the junkyard coil with a new store bought one.
mel
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:06 PM   #21
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Question


Has the fuel filter canister been replaced since the tank problem? Don't see it in your list.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:18 PM   #22
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Has the fuel filter canister been replaced since the tank problem? Don't see it in your list.
That was the charcoal cans in the right wheelwell for the tank vent? They are setting on a shelf in the barn no longer needed.
I called the Turbo City people again and this one told me it had to be looseing its 12v battery to the computer and it's restarts causing the cutting out. I found another wire crimp and solder it. Greased all the plugs and grounds and 12v lug off the secoundary starter relay. Next I'll get a volt gauge and start watching for voltage drops. Always check the power supply. I should have remembered that. See what it does on my next rode trip in two weeks.
mel
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:27 PM   #23
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No, the charcoal can is an emission thingy to capture the gas tank vapor when you stop the vehicle.

As for checking the voltage, if it's intermittent a meter may not be fast enough to catch it. You could try a cheap harbor freight meter with the peak hold feature and then connect it backwards to measure the lows, but I'm not sure of the response rate.

Any luck on pulling the codes?
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:07 PM   #24
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That was the charcoal cans in the right wheelwell for the tank vent? They are setting on a shelf in the barn no longer needed.
I called the Turbo City people again and this one told me it had to be looseing its 12v battery to the computer and it's restarts causing the cutting out. I found another wire crimp and solder it. Greased all the plugs and grounds and 12v lug off the secoundary starter relay. Next I'll get a volt gauge and start watching for voltage drops. Always check the power supply. I should have remembered that. See what it does on my next rode trip in two weeks.
mel
Use an analog meter, not a digital meter and wire it directly to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump. This will tell you if it is a voltage drop at the pump. Once you have defined if it is in fact a voltage drop at the pump you can work your way back to the output of the computer and then the different input sensors to the computer to find the problem.
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:09 PM   #25
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No, the charcoal can is an emission thingy to capture the gas tank vapor when you stop the vehicle.

As for checking the voltage, if it's intermittent a meter may not be fast enough to catch it. You could try a cheap harbor freight meter with the peak hold feature and then connect it backwards to measure the lows, but I'm not sure of the response rate.

Any luck on pulling the codes?
Thinking I'll use my very old Simpson VOM.
No, no luck on the codes. Problem is I got to get it out on the road, then after it does it, get it checked. May need to buy myself a code reader for this job. Looks like they run about $100 and up.
mel
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:15 PM   #26
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I would hard wire the volt meter right into the cab so you can watch it as it happens.

As for a code reader you should be able to read the codes with an analog volt meter plugged into the read out port under the dash. It is a bit can be done. I do not have the instruction or the codes for your rig but you can find them on the web for a site dedicated to your engine

Take a look at this site. I thing these are for a diesel but it will give you an idea of what you are looking for.

OBDII Diagnostic Codes (P Codes)

Also read the second post on this tread for how to retrieve the codes
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.o...9f547c8150d06b
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:13 PM   #27
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You would have to be VERY lucky to be looking at the meter at the same instant the problem happens so I don't think a meter will help, better to keep your eyes on the road.

You can rig up a 12VDC relay to a back-up alarm that will beep any time the voltage drops on the connection being tested. You would have to test each connection one by one until the engine quits and the beep occurs at the same time. Depending on how often it happens it could take a long time or you could get lucky. Depends on how desperate you get.

If you think it will help I will send a parts list and instructions on how to wire it up.

I did have this same problem in a boat it happened 2/3 times every outing after lots frustration and many parts I replaced the key (just another guess) and problem solved very frustrating when pulling a skier.

Garry
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:00 PM   #28
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Personally... I'd use something like a DataQ data logger at $25 and a laptop with a serial port. I've used it before to help with funny voltage issues and it works great.

Data Acquisition Starter Kit Replaces Chart Recorder

Note: I have no relation to Dataq other than being a satistified customer... especially for $25 considering the amount of time it's saved me over the last 4 years tracking down the electrically weird and unusual. Just remember to use a voltage divider to keep the signal in a +/- 10V range.
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