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Old 10-12-2013, 06:25 PM   #1
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2001 27' Safari
1995 36' Classic 36
Ambler , Pennsylvania
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1995 36 classic dash heat

Asking for some advice on increasing the temperature of the dashboard mounted heat .A/C and vent work fine heat set at max is only warm at bestCummins 5.9 coolant temp runs about 175 at cruise . I am sure the heat exchanger has never been boiled out or liquid valves cleaned but any EASY fix suggestion is worth a shot before I rip and tear. Many thanks
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:08 PM   #2
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If your HVAC control panel is like mine then 2 screws secure it to the dash. Undoing those screws and pulling the panel out you should be able to see the mechanical cable that controls the heat setting (I believe all other controls except for the blower are vacuum operated). Make sure the cable is attached and that it moves freely without kinking when the slider is operated.

If that all looks good, next job is to delve into the passenger side kickboard and access all the vacuum tubes and the small vacuum motors. Make sure the tubes are not split and that no idiot has plugged them up with glue (they had on mine). You should be able to put a short length of tube over the end of the accessible vacuum motors and by sucking actuate them, although I think they rarely seize.

After that you are on to the core, and if you get into that, make sure that there is foam or other sealant that prevents air from going around the core rather than through it, which can rob the core of most of its effectiveness.

If your system is completely different, my apologies.

PS. Since you've a diesel, I presume you must have some kind of vacuum tank in the system, so that will also need checking. I'm not familiar with that setup.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:46 PM   #3
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Many thanks Punch. I'll get at those items tomorrow. Hope something shows up there. Hate to do a core job but whatever.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:23 PM   #4
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My temp control cable has been a problem. It tends to bind and disconnect at the control lever. Check the valve end and make sure it's opening and closing completely. Mine throws plenty of heat when the valve is open.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:24 PM   #5
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1995 classic dash heat

Many thanks Dakota
Will get at this hopefully tomorrow
Ended up removing the power step today for new replacement . Step was damaged by PO so I did it sooner rather than later. Removed original tvs today.wife is looking at replacement options
I am developing a list of questions for you re a number of how did you do its
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:03 PM   #6
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Well I was right. Heater core failure. No problem with the temp adjustment cable. Both ends of the core were leaking and must have been for some time . PO never used it in cold weather or for that matter very much at all as it has had only 3,500 miles since 06 according to service records I obtained today. It appears that the heater core (original1994) has been somewhat problematic per past posts on this and other forums. There is what appears to be a new one on eBay that is supposed to be the "improved" version for $ 185 . I'm not 100% sure this is the one but will check with AS tomorrow.
The removal process is daunting at best . You need to remove the front tilting door , bleed the AC and remove hoses, remove about a dozen steel clips surrounding the box and remove the four bolts in the outer lip, disconnect the AC sensor, disconnect the thermostat relay for the AC , dismount the temperature control cable , plus a few other disconnects I forgot to mention.
Keep in mind all of this is done in a space only a mouse can find comfortable and half of the clips and bolts you can not see so you work by feel only . This can ONLY be done from the front storage compartment not inside. The core is 16 3/4 x 6 x 2 5/8 with 2 x 5/8 hose fittings on the right side . The disassembly took about 6 hrs and so much blood loss I may need a transfusion . Airstream really screwed the pooch on this design. Definitely I will stop my blood thinners now before I order the core when I find the right one. In trying to get a specific part number I went through every piece of paper records that the PO had in the unit and found the original bill of lading from Spartan to AS it stated that my unit vin was # 2 of 10 which AS ordered.
Spartan told me AS did all the coach work including the dash AC & Heater .Spartan also told me that AS did the spare wheel set up as my unit is missing the winch crank for the spare. Dakota if you are reading this , give me your best shot at a idea before I go and fabricate one myself.
Apparently ??? The 95 classic diesel pusher has a somewhat unique dash heater /AC box position ,which may be a function of the rear engine design. Do Not go after this job unless you are very patient , ambidextrous and like to work on stuff you can't always see. Once I find the correct replacement part , I will post the number and source.
The AC appeared to be full of R134a ,no leaks and was cooling. Of course AS could not have considered removal of the heater box so they used just enough AC hose for a super tight fit thus the need to decouple the hoses.
I would guesstimate that this is at least a $1,500++++ shop job if they only replace the core . Labor has to be 12-15 hrs at least.
After I get it all back together , remount the batteries, hook up hoses and electrical connection I can the try to figure out why the vacuum motor is not actuating the hot in hose. I'll bet it is disconnected up near the control panel
I could have just bypassed the whole mess but we like being out and about in cold weather as well and I couldn't have a coolant leak along with no front dash heat . At some point the engine radiator coolant level will create problems
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:57 PM   #7
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Well done getting the thing out. I suggest you look at this document from MEI Corporation:
www.meicorporation.com/pdfs/HeaterCores09.pdf‎
(I see this link did not come out right, you'll have to cut and paste it)

which lists many cores. Note in particular how they say to measure length, most people overmeasure it.

core measurement.JPG .... click on this

I think more than likely you need the one I selected below, OEM for a Peterbuilt truck.

core.JPG .... click on this

Always make sure you insulate using foam and high temp caulk, around the core to stop air bypassing it. I sued pipe insulation foam sliced appropriately.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:15 PM   #8
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http://www.myacparts.com/home.html


I believe these guy are the OEM.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punch View Post
Well done getting the thing out. I suggest you look at this document from MEI Corporation:
www.meicorporation.com/pdfs/HeaterCores09.pdf‎
(I see this link did not come out right, you'll have to cut and paste it)

which lists many cores. Note in particular how they say to measure length, most people overmeasure it.

core measurement.JPG .... click on this

I think more than likely you need the one I selected below, OEM for a Peterbuilt truck.

core.JPG .... click on this

Always make sure you insulate using foam and high temp caulk, around the core to stop air bypassing it. I sued pipe insulation foam sliced appropriately.
I don't know what went wrong there, the attachments showed up when I first looked at this. I'll try again.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:19 PM   #10
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This is what core 6893 looks like:
Attached Images
 
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:28 AM   #11
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Many thanks Punch and Dakota

First Acme is the current owner of the former OEM to AS. Richard , the fellow I talked to was the manager at the former supplier and now runs his own on line parts shop . Dakota your link goes to his site and he was most helpful on the phone .
I told Richard that the core shown on his web site had the correct hose positions thickness and height but was only 16 inches.
He went to. His. Store room measured and said the web photo dimensions were incorrect and that it was 17 long which is what I measured. On mine (16 7/8). It is the " new" design ( tube and fin like the AC) . Apparently the old V tube core ( mine) was almost certain to fail. Any way, $ 185 plus shipping and will be here Tuesday.
Punch got your attachments and the Classic 36 will not accept the Peterbilt core as the hose stubs are in the wrong configuration .
My guess is the 95 diesel pushers used one off parts vs the 310 345 etc front engine configuration . Acme also had the Air Blend Box for the 36 but it had an electrical valve solenoid for inlet coolant and mine is a vacuumed motor. Richard said he had not seen that configuration before . Go figure ?
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #12
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Take some pictures of the disassembly and assembly. Sounds like I might be facing that in the future.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:08 PM   #13
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Dakota will take some photos when I get the core and try to show the blend box issues in the repair
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:07 PM   #14
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Dakota I believe that you will be facing this issue for sure. If you have the new core stored in the AS and you have your tools with you you could do this job in a campground if necessity dictates
Bring R143a canisters and your ac charger and a couple of big jugs of antifreeze and if you happen to be a drinking man ( I'm not but have considered it) I would estimate the job will take about cases of beer
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