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Old 07-29-2012, 05:58 PM   #1
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
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1992 Land Yacht TAG brake overhaul (lots of pics)

OK guys, today I completed the mechanical portion of my overhaul of the TAG axle brakes and they NEEDED IT!!!

I replaced the existing brakes with new Dexter complete brake assemblies. The assemblies cost much less then buying the parts individually and were easier to install as well. The total cost for the brake job was $142.68 and that included new brake assemblies (both L and R side), new grease seals, brake cleaner and grease. Here's a pictorial of what I did:

First the parts:
The Brake assemblies for the left and right side.


The grease seals purchased locally:




I used Valvoline Synthetic multipurpose grease

Here's how I did it:

Start by removing the cosmetic covers on the lug nuts and then the lug nuts.




I used the leveling system to bring the TAG wheels off the ground.


With the wheels off, you can see the jack stand for safety purposes.


The next step is to remove the front grease cap. I used a wood block and hammer to rock the cap back and forth until it came off.


Once off you can see the castle nut and cotter pin that holds the brake drum on.




Straighten the pin out and it will slide out.


Once out, the castle nut will screw off by hand and you'll see the washer behind it.




Once the washer is out the outer bearing will come right out.




Once the outer bearing is out the entire brake hub/drum will just slide off the axle.


Here's what I found on both sides. It looks like the inner grease seal had failed on both sides. This left a grease film on the magnet and drum surface. The curb side's adjuster assembly was completely shot and the spring was rusted in two.






Now I removed the inner grease seal by prying it out gently. Be careful to not damage the inner bearing.


Once removed you can see the inner bearing.


Now you can remove the inner bearing.


Then clean the brake drum and axle spindle.


\

Nest step is to remove the 5 bolts that hold the brake assembly onto the axle. Note the 5 bolts above. Below you can see the back side of the plate showing one of the nuts. They're 9/16" on both sides. You can now also cut the wires going to the magnet after the wire nuts.




Once all 5 bolts are removed the brake assembly will just come off.


Now you simply reverse the order. Unpack the new brake assembly and note that there is a right and left side assembly. The assemblies are clearly marked as are the boxes.




Replace the 5 bolts and torque to about 45 ft/lbs.


Clean, inspect and repack the inner bearing either by hand or using a packing tool. I washed with fresh gasoline to clean the bearings and then brake cleaner to do the final cleaning.


Once the bearing is greased and the inner hub is cleaned and greased you can insert the inner bearing and then the inner grease seal.


I used a piece of oak wood and hammer to seat the seal.


Once seated you can lightly lube the axle spindle and then slide the drum assembly on.


Pack the outer bearing and install it into the hub.


Replace the washer and then tighten the castle nut while rotating the brake drum. Once seated, use a 12" cresent wrench and turn until you feel it tighten. Back off the castle nut until one of the two available holes allows the cotter pin to go through.


Bend the pin ends back and then install the outer dust cap.




Remove the electrical tape and wire nuts and connect to the new magnet wires. You should secure the wires using the provided plastic clamp.


I use anti seize lubricant on the wheel studs. Just a dab on each stud will do it.



Install wheels as normal and away you go.

Hope this helps others in the future. Next installment is replacing the electric brake controller with a more updated unit.
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:20 PM   #2
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Very nice, thank you for taking the time to document it so clearly!
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:50 PM   #3
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You made a tough job look manageable, nice job and good picture description.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:18 PM   #4
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Great job....on the MH and describing it, thanks.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:12 PM   #5
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Grayson , Georgia
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I installed the new Tekonsha P2 brake controller today. The original stock one was dripping water out of the gain control so I figured it was time to replace it. Even if it still worked I wasn't trusting for how long.

I was fighting weather so I didn't get to do as detailed of install pics as I would have liked. The install was pretty easy and only required me to cut 4 wires (Red, Black, Blue and White), extend them from the front wheel well area and bring them into the cabin area. There was even a convenient opening in the firewall to bring the wires in. Mounting the controller was easy as well. I kept the old controller in it original location since unscrewing it was more work then it was worth.

I LOVE the ability to check the brakes using the manual feature and love the idea of having a possible emergency backup to the main brakes in case of a complete failure. I tested the new TAG brakes while the jacks had them off the ground. I simply turned the wheels by hand and then had the wife engage the brakes manually. BAM!!! The brakes locked the wheel right up. Now all I have to do is adjust the gain to make the brakes work without locking in an emergency brake situation.

I'll take some pics and post them in a day or two.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:37 AM   #6
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Awesome job!
Thanks for the detailed writeup and pics...
Judging by the thump I feel when my tags engage I will be doing this job sooner than later!
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:32 AM   #7
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1990 36' Land Yacht
Bradenton , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht View Post
OK guys, today I completed the mechanical portion of my overhaul of the TAG axle brakes and they NEEDED IT!!!

I replaced the existing brakes with new Dexter complete brake assemblies. The assemblies cost much less then buying the parts individually and were easier to install as well. The total cost for the brake job was $142.68 and that included new brake assemblies (both L and R side), new grease seals, brake cleaner and grease. Here's a pictorial of what I did:

First the parts:
The Brake assemblies for the left and right side.


The grease seals purchased locally:




I used Valvoline Synthetic multipurpose grease

Here's how I did it:

Start by removing the cosmetic covers on the lug nuts and then the lug nuts.




I used the leveling system to bring the TAG wheels off the ground.


With the wheels off, you can see the jack stand for safety purposes.


The next step is to remove the front grease cap. I used a wood block and hammer to rock the cap back and forth until it came off.


Once off you can see the castle nut and cotter pin that holds the brake drum on.




Straighten the pin out and it will slide out.


Once out, the castle nut will screw off by hand and you'll see the washer behind it.




Once the washer is out the outer bearing will come right out.




Once the outer bearing is out the entire brake hub/drum will just slide off the axle.


Here's what I found on both sides. It looks like the inner grease seal had failed on both sides. This left a grease film on the magnet and drum surface. The curb side's adjuster assembly was completely shot and the spring was rusted in two.






Now I removed the inner grease seal by prying it out gently. Be careful to not damage the inner bearing.


Once removed you can see the inner bearing.


Now you can remove the inner bearing.


Then clean the brake drum and axle spindle.


\

Nest step is to remove the 5 bolts that hold the brake assembly onto the axle. Note the 5 bolts above. Below you can see the back side of the plate showing one of the nuts. They're 9/16" on both sides. You can now also cut the wires going to the magnet after the wire nuts.




Once all 5 bolts are removed the brake assembly will just come off.


Now you simply reverse the order. Unpack the new brake assembly and note that there is a right and left side assembly. The assemblies are clearly marked as are the boxes.




Replace the 5 bolts and torque to about 45 ft/lbs.


Clean, inspect and repack the inner bearing either by hand or using a packing tool. I washed with fresh gasoline to clean the bearings and then brake cleaner to do the final cleaning.


Once the bearing is greased and the inner hub is cleaned and greased you can insert the inner bearing and then the inner grease seal.


I used a piece of oak wood and hammer to seat the seal.


Once seated you can lightly lube the axle spindle and then slide the drum assembly on.


Pack the outer bearing and install it into the hub.


Replace the washer and then tighten the castle nut while rotating the brake drum. Once seated, use a 12" cresent wrench and turn until you feel it tighten. Back off the castle nut until one of the two available holes allows the cotter pin to go through.


Bend the pin ends back and then install the outer dust cap.




Remove the electrical tape and wire nuts and connect to the new magnet wires. You should secure the wires using the provided plastic clamp.


I use anti seize lubricant on the wheel studs. Just a dab on each stud will do it.



Install wheels as normal and away you go.

Hope this helps others in the future. Next installment is replacing the electric brake controller with a more updated unit.
Thanks for the excellent writeup on this vital subject! However, one important comment I might make as a retired paramedic - consider using something like "brake kleen" or similar solvent to clean the bearings etc, rather than gasoline - you don't want to know what happens if you get a spark of anykind while doing the job, as I do!! Just some advice from one that has seen the result. Again thanks for the excellent article, but don't want to lose one of our "airstreamers" (or airstream for that matter!)
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:16 PM   #8
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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1992 Land Yacht TAG brake overhaul

Question, where were you able to find your Dexter Brake assemblies? That's a great price, and a job that I know I can do myself.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:58 AM   #9
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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I purchased the complete brake assemblies at:

Eastern Marine

Purchased these:

12" x 2" NEV-R-ADJUST™ Electric Brake Assy - R.H. / 7k #K23-465-00

12" x 2" NEV-R-ADJUST™ Electric Brake Assy - L.H. / 7k #K23-464-00

Here's a listing of all the drum assemblies they carry:

Eastern Marine Drum Assemblies
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht View Post
I purchased the complete brake assemblies at:

Eastern Marine

Purchased these:

12" x 2" NEV-R-ADJUST™ Electric Brake Assy - R.H. / 7k #K23-465-00

12" x 2" NEV-R-ADJUST™ Electric Brake Assy - L.H. / 7k #K23-464-00

Here's a listing of all the drum assemblies they carry:

Eastern Marine Drum Assemblies
Great job, but using a double lipped grease seal that also has a spring, would have been far superior.

There is but 0ne (1) new tag axle available in the USA.

Ruining one, will be very expensive.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #11
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1995 36' Classic 36
boulder , Colorado
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Thanks for sharing your experience. I was a bit intimidated about digging into my 360 but have learned that other than needing bigger wrenches, most things are pretty simple and in many cases more serviceable than cars.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:51 PM   #12
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Don't know what you're talking about there. The seal I used was a double lipped seal with an inner spring. It just came from a local vendor. It was one of the requirments I made when I purchased the seal. I wanted to see it before I bought it and verified that it was double lipped seal that had an inner coil spring that went around the inside of the seal.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #13
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
The eastern swamps , North Carolina
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Electric Brake kits

Does anyone know if these are the same parts that a 345 would use?
Thanks. Rich.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #14
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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Pretty sure that the 345 uses the same TAG. Measure the diameter of the drum and the width of the shoes. If the drum diameter is 12" and the shoes are 2" wide then they should fit. The only other factor is the number of mounting bolts. The LY used 5 bolts but some use 4. The bolt patern should be standard but you may want to check. If it's 5 bolts then all should be good there too.
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