My '64 Overlander Adventure - Page 10

3Ms75Argosy · 08-07-2007, 11:49 AM

looks great! Can't wait to see it at BB!
Marc

GreatPumpkin · 08-07-2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by safari57

Love the look of the awning. It sure suits the trailer.

Barry

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

looks great! Can't wait to see it at BB!
Marc

Thanks Barry and Marc

We're really happy with the way it looks. I was going to keep it as a suprise at BB, but couldn't wait to share

GreatPumpkin · 08-24-2007, 01:03 AM

I wasn't able to pull it taut enough to keep the door from scraping it.
Solution was to add two horizontal support poles that slide over the tip of each vertical pole. I used two pieces of 1/2 conduit, flattened each end. I then rounded off the corners and drilled holes into each end. (Measure twice, cut once - they fit perfectly

) I had our friend attach 6 loops of industrial velcro to hold the awning to the support poles and allow me to pull it tighter. The door now doesn't touch the awning, and it should shed rain better.
Crude drawing below, but should be able to get some in-use photos this weekend - we're going camping!

safari57 · 08-24-2007, 12:10 PM

We have the pipe sewn into our awning but it can be removed if necessary without much effort. I like the fact that I can leave the awning on the trailer while hauling and it's easy to set up. Mine does not have the stripes and scallops of yours though and I've got to have that. Time to make a change on mine I guess. I just love the look of yours.

Barry

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 12:44 AM

AS promised, here's another photo with the new horizontal bars installed. (sorry about how dark it is, I almost forgot to take one). This was taken on our camping trip the weekend before Labor day. The horizontal bars allow me to pull it tighter, keeping the sag out, and allowing the door to clear without any drag!

safari57 · 09-11-2007, 10:43 AM

It sure does look good GP. I've got to update mine with the scallops, no doubt about it. A great winter project.

Thanks for sharing the info.

Barry

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:07 PM

A few photos of my axle replacement project.

1) Unbolt the old ones
2) Bolt in the new ones

Wake up and start the process for real

I should have gotten more shots throughout the process, but I was to grimy, so what you see is what you get. I backed it into the driveway, placing the rear wheels on 1 2x6 to get a little more clearance. I then jacked up the front axle (on the mounting plate only!) and removed the front wheels. Next step was to remove the brakes and clean off the grease so I didn't get it all over.
Brakes and backing plates removed, sheck out the angle of my torsion arm - solidly frozen in place. Now simply remove the mounting bolts that I had been dousing semi-regularly with WD-40. Did I say simply? Check out the bolt behind the torsion arm - how do I get to that?

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:10 PM

Forgot to mention the nice suprise when I pulled off the front streetside brakes. Backing it into the driveway after our last trip, I thought it sounded funny - I didn't pull the hub because my replacement axles were already ordered so I wasn't to concerned. The brake screw adjuster was broken and rolling around freely

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:17 PM

My solution to the bolts is pictured below - had to cut them off. No-one in town had a nut splitter, the impact wrench wouldn't budge them, couldn't even get a socket on the one behind the torsion arm.
I used a die grinder fitted with a cutoff wheel. Took a little while, because my compressor is only a 3-1/2HP (Honey weren't you just asking what I wanted for Christmas. Hint. Hint.)

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:33 PM

Once the bolts were out, a little persuading and the old axle dropped clear. Positioning the new axle was pretty easy. I have a four wheeled cart? that I rested the new axle on, with a 2x4 to keep it properly balanced and aligned. I then just had to wheel it in place and jack each end up into place - that would go quicker with a helper, but was still pretty easy.
Once in place I marked the location of the bolt holes and dropped it back down to drill. Here's where a mistake in ordering caused me a little more grief. I ordered my Dexters with the Low Profile Side Mount Bracket with reverse orientation. Another member had mentioned it was unnecessary, but I didn't quite understand. The bracket is in addition to the piece welded to the axle body

. That means two pieces of 1/4" steel to drill through instead of one. But, even worse, is the fact that bracket caused the predrilled holes to sit just slightly too low to use

. So using my new $30 5/8" drill bit. I drill some holes. I was able to use one of the original mounting holes on the airstream, so that hole was just thru two layers of steel. The other hole had to go thru all three layers.
I managed to get most of the holes drilled before snapping the bit clean in half. Time for a lemonade break while I send my wife out for another bit.
I get the rest of the holes drilled and lift the axle back into position. Bolt it in place, use the impact to tighten it up and I'm almost done.
Recycled the rubber grommets from the old axles and feed the brake wires back thru. Connect them up and go pull the breakaway. Brakes work! Success.

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:38 PM

Now I'm an expert right?

. Time to start on the rear axle. Basically a repeat of the front axle without the snapping of the drill bit. It went a little quicker/smoother. Forgot to mention, I did take a drill and wire brush to the mounting plates. I then used the same rust encapsulater I used on the tongue. Once the axle was in place, I then sprayed some rubberized undercoating over all the exposed metal.
Here's a couple pics of the rear axle and the shocks - no they aren't leaking, that's just alot of WD-40. The shock buts came off pretty easy.

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:41 PM

Here's a pic of the new axle in place and the rubberized undercoating sprayed.

Inland RV Center, In · 09-11-2007, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin

Need a source for the Bargman 99 cakelight gasket. My lenses are fine, but gaskets are shot allowing water into the housing. I looked at Inland RV and Vintage Trailer Supply, but no luck.

Visit most any NAPA store and get some bulk gasket material.

With that, you can cut what ever size gasket you may need.

Andy

GreatPumpkin · 09-11-2007, 10:51 PM

Now remember I ordered the "airstream Top shock bracket option (E_1501)"? I wasn't sure if it would work or not, but I took a gamble and it will work! Kinda. See the pic below. My main concern was that it would be in the way of the torsion arm "stop" that is welded in place. It clears without a problem. It will work as is, but it would put the shock at a slight off-angle. The bracket is welded in place to the top outside of the torsion arm. If it were requested to be welded to the top inside of the torsion arm, it would be perfect! The other simple option is to slightly bend out the mounting arm that is pre-existing on the trailer.