Mint Condition 64 - Should I change anything?

[ALANSD]

lookin good. It amazes me that I have had my 66 for 3 1/2 years now. Time flies when you are having fun!

[robwok]

Thanks. Now that the weather is cooler, and I'm not dying of heat stroke, I feel more energy in getting out there. I finished off the new propane lines and the new brake wires. They're new all the way to the 7-way, #10 wire (even though it's actually #16 at the brakes themselves from the factory.) My baby hasn't had wheels on her for over a year, and now she has wheels and brakes. Only a few more hours before I let her touch down again. (have some more belly pan rivets, a new screen for the refrigerator vent in the belly pan, and sealing any possible mouse intrusion points. Last night, started taking out the goucho so I can start to prepare the floor for new 9" tile. Keeping the trailer as original as possible. Going to be a pain cutting all those 9" tiles, but it'll look great when it's done.

[robwok]

Cut down the 12" vct to 9". I've worked with sheet flooring, but not VCT. Heat gun is your friend. Even though I put down floor leveler, I think that the original frame wasn't perfectly level, and I didn't want to add a ton of leveler that may flex or crack over time. I added just enough to smooth the transitions. Every once in a while a tile didn't want to bond, stuck up 1/16" maybe because of the height difference. If you use the heat gun, you can get that tile to lay down. I also had a spot where I needed to go around a lp line. I drilled the hole, the cut a slit away from view. Heated up the tile, and allowed me to twist the tile to get the right angle. There were also a couple tiles that were just barely higher than others at the edges, so you can heat those, then roll them with a J roller, and they will conform without any ridges.

It's tough staying original. I would have preferred the look of bamboo or cork, but with keeping everything else original, I felt the tile was the best choice. This is a lot lighter color than original, so it contrasts a little with the dingy taupe color of the walls. I plan to tape everything off in the future and zolatone a lighter color. That will do a lot to freshen up the look inside. *though it would only be a slightly more irritating experience to pull everything out for that.

Rob

[TouringDan]

Rob

Nice job on laying the tile.

When I look at the nice furnace "patch" that you did it makes the furnace "patch" on my Tradewind done by the PO look pretty amatuer. I will probably follow your lead after I replace the furnace and install a proper panel patch.

Dan

[robwok]

Dan when you make it out here for a visit I'll be happy to show you some of the details that make it easier to do the patch.

[ALANSD]

like that furnace patch. I sealed up the old cover inside and vulkem-ed around it outside.
It looks ok and doesn't leak. I might use the space for storage...if we ever need any more storage.

[robwok]

Finished the floor. Had exactly enough tile, not a single spare.

[robwok]

Originally Posted by rideair

A "true purists" would buy "VCT" and cut it down from the 12"x12" out of the box squares to the original 9"x9" (though I think it's a bit much).

Rideair. You just had to say it....

Rob

[robwok]

Pictures of updates. The first is the toilet arm extension, and the other is the vacuum break. The pedal is obviously screwed through the plastic with an aluminum square tube extension.

The pedal comes off with a bolt in the center. Pop off the cover, then a long deep socket can reach it.

Has a spring that when you put it back on, you'll need to have the pedal point skyward, then rotate down and in. Pretty simple.

The pedal has a honeycomb underneath, so you need to mark your holes with a pilot, then drill from underneath (flip) so that you have room for a locknut.

I took a building design idea. Below my toilet, is the black tank. However, we're talking about a 48x50" space with no support. Its the only spot in the trailer like that. However, what I did was put some elevator bolts underneath the trailer pointing up into the cabin, but just behind the bench. Then, I put in a piece of steel angle iron all the way across. It's similar to hiding a load bearing beam in the attic. The effect is that I have a flatter, stiffer floor in the bathroom, where it would normally tend to sag, and collect water. The top of the angle iron also acts as a stop for the flush pedal. I planned it that way, but got lucky it worked that way.

The vacuum break fits between the bench and the outside wall. Turn it 90 degrees to get the toilet under the bench, then when you have it in the right spot, twist it back up.

Rob

[robwok]

I designed a tank monitor for my gray tanks. It would probably work for black tanks, but a peek and a flashlight seems better.

The monitor is a stainless steel for about $12.00 on Amazon.
Wired Liquid Level Sensor Dual Ball Stainless Steel Float Switch: Wall Light Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific If you pop the retaining clip off, and flip the little float, it actually flips whether the circuit is open or closed for lighting. For example, you could set it to both be open, then when the first float comes up, it closes the circuit, then the second, the same. I made it that way. They make it that way so you could use it to keep a tank at the right water level, if it drops, it turns on a water pump until the right level is set.

Anyway, this allows me two water level settings. I then cut a piece of aluminum to hold it at the right level in the tank. I get 2 settings out of it this way - a yellow light will come on when it's almost full, and a red light indicating it's rising into the vent stack. The wires go through a tiny hole in the plastic vent stack, sealed with silicone.

[ALANSD]

nice work. I have a tank monitor for my "grey non - tank" Its called the shower

[robwok]

Replaced all the rusted parts with aluminum or stainless. Lots of detail work to get those crazy little arms perfect. Replacing the wavy fiberglass with UV protected Lexan. So, can still see through the trailer when towing, but have full rock guard protection. Whoever gets this trailer is going to love that option.

[robwok]

We're almost done with the 64 restoration. I had planned to keep it, so I did everything to make it to the point my grandchildren could use it. I was very lucky in that it spent most of it's life under cover, and the original owner painted things so there was a lot of protection.

I had one tiny weak spot at the entrance that I repaired with penetrating sealer and epoxy. Then the floor was covered with VCT tiles cut down to the original 9".

It still looks completely original with the original stove and fridge, though they've had some cleaning and refurbishing and the fridge now has a pietzo electric starter.

All of the curtains are custom made, and in vintage or retro fabrics. The goucho is all new upholstery with NOS upholstery that was pretty close to the original.

New heatpump with wall mounted thermostat and electric strip, low profile. New freshwater tank. New tandem gray tanks and new black tank, all hidden in belly pan with no drop. New water pump, new 10 gallon propane/electric hot water heater. New toilet, in the original location bench seat, with the original foot pedal. LED lights throughout. Led lights hidden in step, in bumper trunk. New high watt backup lights hidden below the bumper trunk. New 30 gallon aluminum propane tanks. New axles, rims, Maxis tires. New propane heater. New copper gas lines. New marker lights with LEDs. 2 new fantastic fans with rain sensors. 3, 12V gel cell batteries and a new vent free catalytic heater. New lead free faucet and water filter. All interior lights in the original covers, but LED light bulbs.

Refurbished hitch and load bars. Frame painted with POR 15. New storm windows on the inside for the jalousy windows so they're completely draftless. new seals on windows and jalousy. Completely rebuilt rockguard with 1/4" UV protected lexan. New LED lights that run the length of the belly pan - multi color - great for hooking up at night. New 30 amp intellipower converter. Bed slats were modified on the front goucho to allow the bed to come out another 8" and then built in drop down legs to support it.

When you walk in, it looks like hardly anything has been modified. The original zolatone, counters, tub and bench are completely intact. The hall curtains were made out of a plastic material that has been upgraded to a sunbrella fabric that looks like it would be original - used the original bifold hardware so you'd have a hard time not knowing it wasn't original.

We'll be taking pictures very soon. I wish I could provide them here now. You can find some of the work on my other thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f157...ing-73860.html


In the pantry closet, I ran full length LED strips in behind the frame. You flip a switch and the entire closet lights up - I'm putting in a heavy weight drawer so you can put a pull out microwave in there if you want.

It has the original matching table, and I have some 60's era leg-o-matic that I'm thinking of covering with the goucho fabric. I still have the pieces from the original furnace and hot water tank if someone wanted to make covers that bolted on. I even have restored the entire rotating TV antenna. So, when you go in, the only think that will not look vintage is the control for the hot water tank, the wall thermostat, and the 22" LED tv that is hidden on a swing out arm. Everything else looks like it did in 64, but completely works - including the GPS theft deterrent system.

Comes with wheel covers, new slinky hoses, and several new RV hoses and a myriad of spare parts.

So, help me out. What's an appropriate price? oh, and I have the original paperwork for the trailer and the rollout awning, as well as a 64 trailer plate if someone wants to register in Virginia, and I have the WBC #2614 - the original numbers were 2616. I'll of course transfer my membership.

[Ros]

Wow, I am just looking at this in awe, Rob. We have just brought home a 1960 Overlander in similarly excellent condition to what you originally had and my husband has looked at the walls and the zolatone must have already been painted over. So we just started repainting again tonight. We have been leaning toward vinyl plank flooring but after seeing your VCT flooring, I think I'd better show him. Though, if I suggest in any way for him to cut down to 9", I suspect that I'll be moving out into the Overlander ;-). Still, it looks amazing. What design did you get to make it so close?

[robwok]

Thanks Ros. The tiles are made by Armstrong, and I got them from Home Depot. I just went in and got some samples to see how they'd look in the trailer. We found colors that pulled in the colors from the stove and fridge and matched everything. That was my wife's part. Mine was cutting every tile down from 12" to 9" using a VCT cutter I got off Craigslist and gluing them down. You do need to make sure your floor is completely stable though. I sanded mine, then filled some low or rough spots with Bondo before putting on the VCT as it can sometimes telegraph through. I also found a couple squeaks in the floor, so I used some self tapping screws I got from Vintage trailer supply to deal with the squeak while I could. I also use a vinyl sealant primer just to make sure I got a good bond, and to help waterproof the subfloor just a little more.
Rob'=

[TouringDan]

Rob

Sounds like you have a museum trailer there Rob. I don't have a clue what it is worth. To appraise anything you look at what similar units have sold for. There is the problem. What do you do when there are not any. You may have to wait for the right person who appreciates what you have done and what you have. My only suggestion would be to send photos and a description of your work to the expert Airstream shops around the country. They would know.

I really need to come over to Richmond sometime and inspect this gem you have and pick your brain a bit.


Good luck, Dan

[robwok]

thanks Dan. We've worked really hard to keep it looking original. I hope to have all the complete pics up soon. Curtains are done, upholstery almost done. I figured out to how to replicate the original zolatone colors and finish so I could repair the fridge scoop and get it back inplace and match the wall finish - just not 50 years of dirt. The clips on the goucho were broken and we finally found the exact right catch for them, at $25.00 a piece, but it was the best solution to the function, and it was original for the most part. If I was going to keep it, i was even going to rivet an AC shroud out of polished aluminum, but I'll let that be someone else's project.

[robwok]

Just about finished the Refrigerator scoop. Just need to rivet it back on. I had a piece of protected zolatone that was under the roof padding when I cut a piece out for the new heat pump - so, I had original zolatone colors. I was able to vary the viscocity of the paint and did some funky techniques to splatter paint it to almost an exact match of the original. I think maybe I have 15% more of the top splatter color than the original guys did, but overall, if you saw that sample next to this, you'd swear they were the same. I used self adhesive fiberglass tape to reinforce the edges, then fiberglassed, sanded, used a bonding primer, then finished with the base and splatter coat. The only difference in this picture is that the walls haven't been cleaned yet. I should have taken a good outdoor pic so you can see how close it is to the original. I think at this point, if I had a new trailer to work on, a 50's era. I'd have no problem applying zolatone, or if I wanted, just use their primer and come up with my own color mix. You have to use undiluted paint, set the HVLP sprayer to a mostly wide open setting, then stand back about 5 feet to get it to splatter right, and then it's perfect. Too close, and you get the fine droplets. That was the hardest part, filtering out fine mist paint - which is the opposite of regular painting.

[robwok]

Cleaned the door and a section of the roof with TSP. Worked awesome. I don't even scrub, just gently wipe and rinse and repeat.

Also, can you tell I moved the foot pedal over on the toilet? It was a real challenge getting a new toilet in with an elongated bowl. Plus, the foot lever. I am trying to keep this looking like it did in '64. So, unless you really know, you won't know that the foot pedal was supposed to be in the center. The original hole was fiberglass, and then I airbrushed a color matched paint over the original section after using a universal bonding primer. I have a tiny bit of sanding left on the pedal channel. The pedal bottoms out at a stop so you can't over press the flush mechanism in case someone stomped on it. (I have a big teenage boy I wanted to make things unbreakable just in case). In the back, I had to make a paper template to get the seat bracket to fit just right. It's got several angles to it, and then it drops down. I had to file the plastic part on the back of the seat bracket to slide back instead of sliding back and then dropping. That section is hidden and it covers the break valve for the flush mechanism. All I have left there is to tape and then caulk around the toilet back. We're making a new seat. The new toilet seat is wood, and slightly thicker than the original, and deeper. So, I built a new seat that is slightly higher and deeper than the original. However, I don't think anyone will ever know it's not the original seat unless they've been in a trailer of this year before. It's also going to look better as the original valve and round handle water faucet handle won't be there. It should look much cleaner.

[ALANSD]

Is that wall over the door discolored?