I'm not certain what pressure your airbags need to operate properly, but a 345 needs a compressor that happily puts out 120 psi, 140 would be better, but a 140 psi output really approaches a two stage compressor requirement. I would check the recommended max pressure for your airbags in your manual, and work from there.
The workings of the airbags really do not take much volume, but if your system "dumps" air when you activate the rear levelling jacks, it may take a while to build the operating pressure back up in the holding tank.
Of primary, importance, IMHO, is the size of the primary wire going to your compressor. My original wire was only a 12 guage. Using a "middle of the road" (not conservative) 5% voltage loss/ampere/wireline gauge/distance table, I determined that with my existing compressor (a 20 amp model), the maximum distance acceptable for 12 g. wire was only 9 feet. Not very practical.
A more conservative 2% Voltage Drop Chart For
12 volt Systems (below) indicates the maximum distance in feet of various guage wires from power source to load for 2% voltage drop in a
12 volt system.
Wire Guage / Feet of Wire
Amps #14 #12 #10 #8 #6
1 45 70 115 180 290
2 22.5 35 5 7 5 9 145
4 10 17.5 27.5 45 72.5
6 7.5 12 17.5 30 47.5
8 5.5 8.5 11.5 22.5 35.5
10 4.5 7 11.5 18 28.5
15 3 4.5 7 12 19
20 2 3.5 5.5 9 14.5
I went with a 5% loss table, and reran the circuit with #4 guage wire.
For me, the above table is a real eye opener for general trailer/MH
12 volt wiring. I have always checked the true operating voltage on the various trailers I have towed, and have found that with age and corrosion the voltage never gets to the "as new" voltage. (When I had boats in South Lousianna, a once a year rewiring of any boat trailer I had was a ritual.)
All the forum members who are now gutting their interior may want to visit their own table search to confirm probable voltage drops. No time like the present to upgrade or pull additional circuits for anticipated or future light/tv/other upgrades.
Linear Mode
