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Old 09-16-2003, 06:57 PM   #29
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I would be willing to bet the reduction of parts and smaller airbags created a reduction in cost. I like the way mine works. If the Roadside is heavy (full tanks) the roadside bag will have more air in it. I run level. I like it.
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:20 PM   #30
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Air Bags

Thanks Peter and Brett, you guys rock! Where else would you find a total stranger willing to clinb under a several ton vehicle with a digital camera?

Sebastian
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:24 PM   #31
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No problem for me! I seem to be under it on a regular basis. At most rallies that I have seen pictures of Peter is not only under his, but everone elses too.

It is an illness that you have yet to feel the full effects of. My wife knows when I get up from the computer, camera in hand, that there is someting on the forum that needs a picture to help explain. She just shakes her head and is glad I don't have any other addictions
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Old 09-16-2003, 08:47 PM   #32
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Re: Air Bags

Quote:
Originally posted by SebastianD
Thanks Peter and Brett, you guys rock! Where else would you find a total stranger willing to clinb under a several ton vehicle with a digital camera?

Sebastian
We only climb out from under it to check on the forum.
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:15 AM   #33
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I have been under mine so often I feel "married" to it
Thanks Brett fo rthat tip- it might explain why the bags don
t seem to inflate any more. I checked for leaks, didn't find any. So I will try what you said, I have a power connection ready to attach, fused and all, I had it attached to the isolator output where to old line was burnt out. Heavy duty wire and fuse. I migh try to hook it back with the compressor power line off and see what happens when I pump em.
If i eliminate the compressor and go to manual feed, it will have to bypass all that leveling stuff. I intended to pull the compressor and try to repair it or replace it, but have not yet gotten to that.
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:23 AM   #34
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Alan,

The compressor replacement is a straight forward job. Mine was 3 bolts and dissassembly of the fittings to get it out. I had to drill 2 new holes as the new feet did not line up with the old holes.

I was able to with some watching get a new Thomas 315CDC45/12 Compressor for $102.00 plus freight on Ebay. It arrived last night and I installed it in less than 2 hours.

From the duty ratings it looks to be the current equal to what I pulled out.

Good luck on the wiring, etc.
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Old 09-26-2003, 01:51 PM   #35
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Thanks everyone!
After reading all of the above I was able to figure out I've been dealing with a dead compressor so it's good to hear the job ahead is going to be an easy one.
One question for anyone who knows the answer: When replacing the air compressor what should I look for (PSI Volume of air etc)?
Thanks and happy trails...Stuart
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:07 PM   #36
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You should be looking for a Max pressure of better that 100 PSI and duty cycle of 50%. I was able to get a 315CDC45/12 off ebay for less than 120.00 including freight. Works great and was a straigtforward install.
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by thenewkid64
You should be looking for a Max pressure of better that 100 PSI and duty cycle of 50%. I was able to get a 315CDC45/12 off ebay for less than 120.00 including freight. Works great and was a straigtforward install.
The 315/45 (also known as ARC5000) is great little compressor for the air bag system. It has minimum internal leakage and runs rather quiet when mounted on rubber boots.
Brett got his for a great price, they normally retail for about 180.-.
Since I didin't want to run additional air lines for an in-dash pressure monitoring gauge, I installed a warning light in the dash, which is lit when the compressor is running.
A continues light while going down the road would alert me of possible bag or line failure.
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:23 PM   #38
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Peter,

I was just thinking about the light. Did you use the second set of contacts that are unused in the pressure switch?

I figure I could steal a bit of power from the compressor feed and have the output go to a dash light.
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Peter,

I was just thinking about the light. Did you use the second set of contacts that are unused in the pressure switch?

I figure I could steal a bit of power from the compressor feed and have the output go to a dash light.

I just wired it to the +compressor lead at the pressure switch.
Don't tell anyone I said this, but if you are using a 20 amp fuse for the compressor as suggested, go to a 25 amp. Both of the solenoid valves run of the same power source and you will find that the 20 amp will blow sometimes.
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:38 PM   #40
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I concur on the fuse issue. My Manual says 20 amp, but a 20 amp would not even start the old pump. So I went to a 25 amp. It would get warm when the pump was in overload, but it did not blow. I left it in for the new pump.
I may swap it out to the new blade style with a weatherproof cover as the plastic is getting brittle from the heat and age.
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:40 PM   #41
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Volume or Pressure?

I'm not certain what pressure your airbags need to operate properly, but a 345 needs a compressor that happily puts out 120 psi, 140 would be better, but a 140 psi output really approaches a two stage compressor requirement. I would check the recommended max pressure for your airbags in your manual, and work from there.

The workings of the airbags really do not take much volume, but if your system "dumps" air when you activate the rear levelling jacks, it may take a while to build the operating pressure back up in the holding tank.

Of primary, importance, IMHO, is the size of the primary wire going to your compressor. My original wire was only a 12 guage. Using a "middle of the road" (not conservative) 5% voltage loss/ampere/wireline gauge/distance table, I determined that with my existing compressor (a 20 amp model), the maximum distance acceptable for 12 g. wire was only 9 feet. Not very practical.

A more conservative 2% Voltage Drop Chart For 12 volt Systems (below) indicates the maximum distance in feet of various guage wires from power source to load for 2% voltage drop in a 12 volt system.

Wire Guage / Feet of Wire

Amps #14 #12 #10 #8 #6
1 45 70 115 180 290
2 22.5 35 5 7 5 9 145
4 10 17.5 27.5 45 72.5
6 7.5 12 17.5 30 47.5
8 5.5 8.5 11.5 22.5 35.5
10 4.5 7 11.5 18 28.5

15 3 4.5 7 12 19

20 2 3.5 5.5 9 14.5



I went with a 5% loss table, and reran the circuit with #4 guage wire.

For me, the above table is a real eye opener for general trailer/MH 12 volt wiring. I have always checked the true operating voltage on the various trailers I have towed, and have found that with age and corrosion the voltage never gets to the "as new" voltage. (When I had boats in South Lousianna, a once a year rewiring of any boat trailer I had was a ritual.)

All the forum members who are now gutting their interior may want to visit their own table search to confirm probable voltage drops. No time like the present to upgrade or pull additional circuits for anticipated or future light/tv/other upgrades.
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:01 PM   #42
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Dennis,

Ok, as they confession is good for the soul, so here goes.

When I wired in the compressor I miswired the relay. It would not shut off when the proper pressure was reached. After it ran the bags up and kept running and running and running I decided to disconnect the power.

I then took my air gauge and checked the tank pressure to see what it was and if it had reached the proper range or what. It was at 140PSI! I hope I never need that kind of air pressure, but knowing I can get it is great.
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