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thenewkid64 · 07-08-2003, 05:38 PM

As many of you know I am getting a new 454 installed in my 78 Argosy Morothome.

Ok, time to open the proverbial can-o-worms.................

After I go 300 miles and drain the dino oil out and pull the filter do I go full Synthetic? Amsoil? Just run dino oil? I know to stay away from the cheap filters and avoid Fram like the plauge.

What would you do faced with a brand new powerplant?

74Argosy24MH · 07-08-2003, 05:49 PM

Break it in before synthetic. I put an Amsoil bypass filter system on mine and talked to them about what to do. They said the rings will not break in properly on synthetic. I would drive it on home after the oil change on dino.

John

53flyingcloud · 07-08-2003, 11:41 PM

Brett G

If I may say so, IMHO "300 miles" is not enough distance for proper break-in.
I would recommend running your vehicle for 1000 miles min. with the dino oil.
Use this method:
When you first pick it up, drive slowly for the first trip out (a distance of, say 15 or 25 miles) not going over 30mph. Then after that, drive with varying speed and, shifting of gears without exceeding 50mph. As you drive, keep the rpm load down on the engine by not revving it up or putting strain on it, like hill climbing.
I would recommend that you order your synthetic oil from Amsoil as well as, a dual by-pass filter kit so as to have it on hand ready to install when the time comes to flush out the dino oil.
After 1k miles or so:
I'd recommend that you flush out the oil system and, then have the bypass filter system installed.
Once you've done that, I'd drive the vehicle out on the hi-way for an extended trip with no load. Try to plan for a trip that extends 600 miles one-way. Great excuse for a get away`!
I would do that several times and, by then, you're close to breaking in the engine properly.
You might want to consider looking into changing your synthetic oil between 3 to 6 k miles (depends on driving conditions) and, the SDF (White color) filter abt 12k miles. You do have the option of sending away an oil sample for lab check to see if it needs replacing at that time.
This method is similar but, somewhat modified from what I used recently to break-in my new diesel engine. I now have over 5k miles on it with almost no oil consumption~
Later, in Aug, I plan to tow my A/S back to New England, to finish the break-in process~
I wish you well with your new engine..
ciao

Pick · 07-09-2003, 05:23 AM

Brett, which 454 did you get? Vortec? FI or Carb? I went 5K on dino before switching to synthetic. I use Amsoil 5W30, and SDF24 filter.

Mike

thenewkid64 · 07-09-2003, 05:32 AM

Pick,

I went with the carb based engine.

53,

I was not planning on a 300 mile break in, but I do not want to run the inital oil longer than that due to possible contamination. I want to be sure to remove any left over little bits-o-metal out as soon as is practical. I was just not sure if I should go Syn at that point or finish the breakin with dino oil.

PeterH-350LE · 07-09-2003, 05:40 AM

(before going east)
Use dino 5/30 or 10/30. Start out easy as suggested.
Dallas has a big loop (635). Get on the loop and train your new horsey. 50, 60, 55, 65 and take an exit. Back on the loop and repeat above for 50 miles. Let it know early what ya gonna do to it.
Back to the mechanic or inlaws. Check for leaks. Dump oil and filter. Check hose clamps. Check belts. Retighten exhaust studs.
Next dino change after 600 miles.

fangthorpe · 07-09-2003, 06:30 AM

We once had to tear down and rehone a big block roadrace engine because we went to dino oil before the rings were completely seated...and rings on a race engine are supposed to be ready to go almost immediately. The blowby and leakdown was astonishing. Second time around, we waited a couple of sessions longer before going synthetic and all was well. I wouldn't change over for at least 1000 miles. Can't imagine how they hone a block in order to deliver a new vehicle with synthetic. That stuff is really slippery. Try to clean 18 quarts of it out of an engine compartment from a blown motor!!!

Most important is to get the first batch of dino oil with all the shavings and grit in it out early. And make really sure there are no hoses, radiators, coolers or filters with junk in them from the old motor. Ultrasound and alcohol notwithstanding, shrapnel loves to hide until you fire up the shiny new motor.

Good luck.

wb13798 · 07-09-2003, 07:39 AM

i would do the start up break as suggested. recommend you watch the oil pressure guage like a hawk and drive it to spring hill fl. and let the AC oil filter do its job, it will stop the trash and what ever. you not going to get that stuff out in a 100 miles . so keep an eye on the oil pressure guage. i wouldnt put syn in untill i had 5k on the engine.and that has worked for me. lol
al

ALANSD · 07-09-2003, 11:58 AM

ANOTHER MINOR TIP- WHEN I WORKED FOR DEALERSHIPS, WE WERE ALWAYS TELLING CUSTOMERS TO VARY THE REVS OFTEN WHEN TRAVELLING FOR THE FIRT TIME, UP DOWN AND UP AGAIN, EASY DOES IT. TREAT IT LIKE A NEW BABY FOR AWHILE

53flyingcloud · 07-09-2003, 01:53 PM

Brett G

It must've been the 'wee' hours of the morning..lol
You have gotten alot of fantastic advice on breaking it in and, that..with your own background, should be just perfect~
ciao

Silvertwinkie · 07-09-2003, 02:31 PM

I'd break it in with what is in it to start then go to Amsoil or Mobil 1. Either one will be an improvment from conventional oils.

Eric

George · 07-10-2003, 05:53 AM

Brett,
IMHO (45 yrs with motors) your getting good advice from the replies, change oil/filt. 300 or so miles again at 600 then 1000.
all the little gremlins will get caught in the filter. DONT REV up a cold motor!! EVER!!
#1 cold oil mostly BYPASSES the filter, as the viscosity is too thick.
(little gremlins escape to do damage)
#2 cold oil does not "splash" on the cylinder walls as well.

Upon acceleration, there tends to be blowby past the rings thus "cleansing the cyl.walls " of splash lubrication.
On decelaration, a slight vacuum occurs, thus tending to pull up oil into the rings.This is just what you want to brake in a motor. like was mentioned, "varying the load".

As far as when to go to synthetic, I would say that your motor with a 4:11 or a 4:56 rear end will get more wear in 2,000 miles than a vehicle with say a 3:23 or a 3:55 axle AND a 25% overdrive.
Motorhomes tend to come under the "severe duty" catagory.
be VERY watchfull of temprature!! I would NOT run the air cond. for the first oil change,
The big blocks tend to run hot ,add a restrictive dog house, A"tight"new motor AND the heat generated by A.C. and that is an awfully lot to ask of a cooling system and brake in oil.
Lots of luck with your new "RAT"
Ol' George