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Old 07-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #15
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As a machinist who has assembled and disassembled many interference fits heat is your friend. Cold helps in assembly but is very difficult to effectively apply to an assembled unit. Heat the hub of the wheel. It will also heat the shaft but not as fast and sometimes it is just enough to break it loose. Also several heating and cooling cycles can help a stuck joint. Another thing is forget the impact wrench. Draw the center bolt of the wheel puller tight and then smack it firmly straight on with a large hammer. That is the impact that the joint will "feel" and break it free.

Draw the puller center bolt up tight, heat the wheel hub and strike the puller center bolt. Let cool and repeat. You don't really need a lot of heat. A small pencil type propane torch applied right at the joint will do the job. The joint is designed to come apart without heat but the rust and corrosion formed over the years is your problem and the heat and cooling cycles will help free that up.

Also the puller shown by Robert is common but there are also many with three legs rather than two. It depends on the wheel which you need. And forget the jack, you will damage the column and not help get the wheel off. Good luck.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:21 PM   #16
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As a machinist who has assembled and disassembled many interference fits heat is your friend. Cold helps in assembly but is very difficult to effectively apply to an assembled unit. Heat the hub of the wheel. It will also heat the shaft but not as fast and sometimes it is just enough to break it loose. Also several heating and cooling cycles can help a stuck joint. Another thing is forget the impact wrench. Draw the center bolt of the wheel puller tight and then smack it firmly straight on with a large hammer. That is the impact that the joint will "feel" and break it free.

Draw the puller center bolt up tight, heat the wheel hub and strike the puller center bolt. Let cool and repeat. You don't really need a lot of heat. A small pencil type propane torch applied right at the joint will do the job. The joint is designed to come apart without heat but the rust and corrosion formed over the years is your problem and the heat and cooling cycles will help free that up.

Also the puller shown by Robert is common but there are also many with three legs rather than two. It depends on the wheel which you need. And forget the jack, you will damage the column and not help get the wheel off. Good luck.
Better solution? Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:06 PM   #17
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Better solution? Thanks!
Oops!
I did not mean to post the above with a Question mark....

I absolutely agree the last full post was excellent,,,,

thanks for allowing me to correct my error...
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:20 AM   #18
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Oops!
I did not mean to post the above with a Question mark....

I absolutely agree the last full post was excellent,,,,

thanks for allowing me to correct my error...
Not to worry, my poor old eyes never noticed the ? My problem is that my two finger typing is so slow that in the time it takes me to type a response two more people have already posted the answer. All we can do is put forward our best efforts and hope it helps somebody as much as other people have helped us.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:20 AM   #19
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Wink

How about a vertical photo of your puller set-up?

That may help....

Bob
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:20 PM   #20
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You mentioned that you are using WD40 to help breakdown the rust. I have had much better luck with PB Blaster. I would put PB Blaster on it for a couple days.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:50 PM   #21
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Oh yes, liberal application of heat with blow torch and persuasion from club hammer finally persuaded first steering wheel, then boss to let go of splined shaft! Thanks to all for helpful advice, now all I need is a new horn slip ring and actuator as the old one melted!
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:59 PM   #22
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Sahweeeeeet!
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:38 PM   #23
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It looks like the shaft and splines are still in pretty good shape. At this point in time that is a real plus.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:20 PM   #24
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I might be able to help with the slip ring. I've got a spare steering column for parts.

I will need to pull the steering wheel first however

Brad
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I might be able to help with the slip ring. I've got a spare steering column for parts.

I will need to pull the steering wheel first however

Brad
That would be wonderful it you can Brad as, to date, I have been unable to locate a spare. I just hope you enjoy better success removing the steering wheel than I did!
Cheers,
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:19 PM   #26
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Is one of these the ring you are looking for?

Truck Parts | 1969-1972 | 1967-79 STEERING WHEEL / HORN CAP MOUNTING SET | Classic Industries
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:42 PM   #27
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Andrew,

Got the steering wheel removed this evening. Popped right off with a little assist from the impact wrench

Which parts do you need?

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Brad
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:08 AM   #28
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That's great news thank you Brad. The part/s I'm after is the copper/black plastic slip ring that the little metal rod and spring horn actuator contact when the horn boss is pressed.
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