Sagging Door in '92 300LE

[fangthorpe]

I increasingly have to lift up on the door to get it to shut properly. On close inspection, it seems all adjustment is at the hinges and not at the striker bolt. Pins are tight. Hinge screws are tight but hinges are flexing on the body, as if screws are loose. How do I get to the backing nuts for the hinge screws? There is a thin (2-3") vertical trim panel inside, but it looks like I have to remove the table and the lower panels first. Any clues?

[87MH]

I had to tighten the lower hinge on mine, unfortunately, I did not have any new safety nuts, and reused the old ones, now I have to do the entire process one more time, as after 6 months, the same nuts have again loosened up.

I don’t think you have to remove the table; the fabric panel is secured with a BUNCH of small Phillips head brass screws. Removing the trim piece below the windows is not much of a challenge, but it does take time. After removing the fabric panel, I was able to lift the aluminum trim enough to tighten the nuts without drilling the rivets or permanently deforming the aluminum. This is a two person job, as you can’t tighten the nuts (you need a 3/8” “floppy” drive to get to them), and hold a backup on the outside at the same time.

Don’t forget the new safety nuts. I think I will try to find the elliptical safety nuts that are used on airplanes when I redo mine. Definitely don’t want to do it a third time.

[fangthorpe]

I have an oak surround containing the wood blinds. That would have to come off completely before I could try to remove any of the fabric/carpet panels and get to the hinge. In any case, the long thin vertical panel that has to come off to get at the top hinge looks like it's actually part of the ceiling panel...I don't see any joints or fasteners. What looks possible is to drill the little rivets out of the alloy door moulding, pull it out and pry the panel out from under it. Or, an increasingly attractive option, drill an access hole through the fabric at each nut big enough for a 1/4 drive socket and put some plastic plugs in when it's over. Any more ideas?

[fangthorpe]

For the archive, here's what I found. Peeled back interior wall carpet/fabric directly behind coach side door hinge bolts after drilling/removing rivets in door shut and removing trim. You have to remove the black plastic step box to free the lower end of trim. Fabric is glued to thin aluminum which is riveted to heavier aluminum which is riveted to spars. No joy removing any of this to access backup nuts without major surgery. Drilled 3/4" holes through both aluminum plates to access nuts. Nuts buried under globs of sealant. Much digging to allow socket to fit. 1" hole a better idea. Door hangs fine with all tight. Taped over access holes, spray glued fabric back, reriveted finish trim. Invisible repair, 1 hour, cost = rivets.