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Old 06-29-2016, 01:13 PM   #29
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"Thinner oils improve fuel economy. But if the oil is too thin, it may not provide enough film strength at high temperature to protect the bearings in an engine with increased bearing clearances. On the other hand, thicker oil is good for maintaining good oil pressure in a performance engine. But if the oil is too heavy it may interfere with the normal operation of the variable valve timing system, or be slow to circulate when a cold engine is first started. Churning excessively thick oil can also generate heat and rob the engine of power."

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014...ing-right-oil/


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Old 06-29-2016, 01:27 PM   #30
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Check out the Chevytalk.org forum. Guys on there like Chevytech will give you a definitive position on your problem.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:08 AM   #31
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Franklin Park , Illinois
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Oil? Test drive? And moral support

I'm going out to the motorhome this week, probably early Friday morning
I'm hoping to do another filter and oil change.
I know I'm opening a can of worms here and I've seen the oil threads on this forum but any advice received will be filtered through my thick skull and I'll make a decision.
Right now I'm leaning to go to, and stick with a Mobil oil, I'm thinking a 10/30 or maybe a strait 30w oil probably non-synthetic
I'm hoping to get enough nerve to take it out for a test drive
Any advice given for the test drive, again will be filtered through the same thick skull😏
"Kota" mentioned that maybe the low oil pressure caused the heat but I KNOW this is not true because I saw the missing fan belts (I'll do my best to check belt alignment when I'm at the motorhome)
The motorhome is at a self storage place about 70 miles from home so I can't Do any major work like pull a pan without first driving it home and I live in Illinois where road construction is horrible!
As for the burnt oil leaving a "varnish" I'm hoping a few more, more frequent oil and filter changes will help with that?
I'm now scared to even take it out for the test drive!
Ya know how it is once a vehical leaves ya stranded, you never really trust it any more!
So if at 11am central time on Friday everybody could cross their fingers for me...
I'll leave a few more updates, maybe I'll even go out this evening and give it a try
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:44 AM   #32
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This fall we plan to fly in to Salt Lake, pick up the 310 at a shop where it is getting some work done, and start driving toward San Antonio with absolutely no idea of what our oil pressure numbers are. As long as it's running cool and quiet and the needles on the dash gauges are pointing generally straight up, we will just keep going.
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:57 AM   #33
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If I were in your shoes I would get an oil analysis done as mentioned in a previous post. I would also be running a zinc additive or 15w/40 diesel oil which still contains some zinc. I have used 15w/40 oil in older gas engines with no problems - more consistent oil pressure readings.
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Old 06-30-2016, 05:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grosspoluter View Post
I'm going out to the motorhome this week, probably early Friday morning

I'm hoping to do another filter and oil change.

I know I'm opening a can of worms here and I've seen the oil threads on this forum but any advice received will be filtered through my thick skull and I'll make a decision.

Right now I'm leaning to go to, and stick with a Mobil oil, I'm thinking a 10/30 or maybe a strait 30w oil probably non-synthetic

I'm hoping to get enough nerve to take it out for a test drive

Any advice given for the test drive, again will be filtered through the same thick skull😏

"Kota" mentioned that maybe the low oil pressure caused the heat but I KNOW this is not true because I saw the missing fan belts (I'll do my best to check belt alignment when I'm at the motorhome)

The motorhome is at a self storage place about 70 miles from home so I can't Do any major work like pull a pan without first driving it home and I live in Illinois where road construction is horrible!

As for the burnt oil leaving a "varnish" I'm hoping a few more, more frequent oil and filter changes will help with that?

I'm now scared to even take it out for the test drive!

Ya know how it is once a vehical leaves ya stranded, you never really trust it any more!

So if at 11am central time on Friday everybody could cross their fingers for me...

I'll leave a few more updates, maybe I'll even go out this evening and give it a try

The worst part about it is not having the confidence to take it out on an extended road trip. You can get a reman or crate engine for about the cost of a good tow. Finding a decent shop to install it for reasonable might be a challenge.
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Old 06-30-2016, 06:49 PM   #35
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I've had a couple of high mileage engines suffer low oil pressure after an overheat event. One had a partially clogged screen on the oil pump pickup, the other had a bypass spring partly collapse. The clog was from the sludge in the engine loosening from the high temps, and getting sucked into the screen. The filter bypass spring issue also seemed to be from sludge getting in the way.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:28 PM   #36
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There is a valve in the pump with plastic parts ,the pan is not hard to remove lower pan as much as you can then drop the pump in to the pan the pan will now slide out easily. I would replace pump if necessary stock pressure high volume..and Lucus is great stuff.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:41 PM   #37
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With a good oil you need no additives, my cat has 1.4 million miles , no additives, none nada.....
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:13 AM   #38
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Yet another oil change!

Ok so I went out this evening and did yet another oil and filter change after running the engine for about an hour
During that hour I let it get to normal operating temp 210*f
I think it was on another forum I read something about if it was a main bearing being bad it would loose oil pressure under load so I took these readings
210*f 1500rpms in park 35psi
210*f 1500rpms in drive (with breaks applied - basically a "break torque") 30psi
Ya I know the break torque is hard on... Everything but only took 5 seconds to get the reading😏
Took it for a very short ride around the storage facility's parking lot, didn't go over 15 mph but never got over 30 psi
I just didn't have the courage to take it out on the road😒
I did take "Kota's" advice and ordered the oil analysis kit and collected a quart sample to send in when the kit gets to me
I refilled the engine with non - synthetic 10/30 and put another new filter in
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Old 07-01-2016, 01:02 PM   #39
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Good stuff, is it worth running it with some sea foam or other engine cleaner, then, after you have been brave enough to take her for a spin and got a few miles on her, do another full oil change with the 10/30 mineral. You've probably got a heap of burned crud in there.



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Old 07-01-2016, 06:11 PM   #40
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Small first test drive

Ok yet another update
Went to the motorhome again
Started it up and put it in drive. After it warmed up a bit. I took it on a 5 mile ride speeds 20 -45 mph and things went better then expected👍
Oil temp 196*f @ 800 rpm's stopped at a light 19psi
Oil temp 210*f @ 2200 rpm's cursing at 45mph 43psi
These readings are with the regular 10/30 oil in it. On a 78*f day
Don't think I'm going to use the seafoam stuff I'm not a big fan of "snake oil" stuff and I am just am a little leery of super cleaning a engine. I think I'll try another few oil changes and then go to the thicker oil
After researching this forum, and a few others, I'm thinking of trying Shell Rotella T 15W-40 on my next small trip
Any thoughts?
P.S. Can't thank the responders on this forum enough!!!
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:05 PM   #41
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IMHO

I think previous posters have hit the mark with 5W being way too light an oil, especially in heat and old motors and yet if you read the link below it will state something different.

IMHO, staying with 10W-30 should do the trick. If temps were over 90F I may think of going to SAE 30 oil but a modern 10W-30 should be able to handle the heat.

It's always a toss up when or if to turn to synthetic oils. In more modern engines with dual cams, smaller cooling systems and tight tolerances, it's a no brainer, synthetic all the way. In the older engines it's a different ballgame with seals that have difficulty sealing against synthetic (leaks) and a few other reasons already stated in this thread; thusly staying with fossil oil is a better bet.

You should read this.....

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

I think you dodged a bullet, but gained a lot of knowledge; a win, win.Heck even I learn a new trick or two.

Cheers
Tony

PS I run synthetic in my 2.5 V6 Tracker and 3.5 V6 Altima but dino juice in my Jaguar XJS and Airstream 310 turbo diesel.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:58 PM   #42
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Converted my Dads 1987 Suburban TBI 454 to Mobil One 5W-50 synthetic with about 160k on motor roughly twenty years ago. Oil use dropped and stabilized. He ran truck to 190k. That truck pulled his 8K lb 28' Silver Streak for fifteen years. A 15k combo.

I'd use Rotella T6 5W-40 in that truck today, or if I still had my old 440-V8 Chrysler sedan. Donaldson (Stratapore) or Baldwin filters, only.

FWIW, I severely overheated that big Dodge one night and kept going. Miles and miles. One dangerous part of town. Let it cool for several hours. Made it home after putting water in. Next day, replaced failed water pump and changed oil (M1 5-50). Drove it for another few years. Nothing noticeable. I've rebuilt a few engines along the way. This one didn't need it, but it was far from fresh (original, actually).

Good luck.
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