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Old 07-16-2015, 01:26 AM   #1
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1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
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Large electric radiator cooling fan?

I checked my fan with an ohm meter it's not open or shorted but I can't remember it ever coming on (running). The temp gage is always in about the same place give or take the width of the needle. I have had my 1998 LY 30 for about three years 20,000 miles.
Is this a concern or should I be glad my cooling system is working so well? I don't know where the temp switch (if it has one) is located on this 7.2 L Chevy.
Any help out there?
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:48 AM   #2
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On our 454 Burb the fan sensor was on the passenger side cylinder head, about 8" back from the front of the motor, there should also be a sensor in the same place on the driver side head for the temp gauge.

On our Burb the electric fan also came on when the AC was on, to increase air flow thru the condenser and compensate for the heat generated from the higher engine load.

If memory serves it's a 230* sensor.

Bob
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:05 PM   #3
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If you're running your dash AC then you definitely want your cooling fans to run. That will make a huge difference in how cold the air is coming out of the dash vents not to mention the cooling effect it will have on the engine
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
On our 454 Burb the fan sensor was on the passenger side cylinder head, about 8" back from the front of the motor, there should also be a sensor in the same place on the driver side head for the temp gauge.

On our Burb the electric fan also came on when the AC was on, to increase air flow thru the condenser and compensate for the heat generated from the higher engine load.

If memory serves it's a 230* sensor.

Bob

Bob if you are still out there I found two things that I find strange. I used a laser temp probe (usually accurate) and I found nothing higher then 182* well under 230* on any place I checked on the radiator this after running on the road two hours. Next I checked out the circuit on the electric fan one side was ground ok but when I took the fan connector apart I grounded that same terminal and applied a 12 volt supply to the other side the fan started and ran but in the wrong direction. Wrong In that against the natural air flow that I would have going down the road at say 60 mph. Was this fan wired wrong at the factory or am I missing something, any thoughts?
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:37 AM   #5
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Your fan is OK you just had the polarity reversed on the electric.
You need a schematic of the truck and then test through the circuit from fuse to fan for power, noting that when you test across the sensors you will have to jump them out or put them in hot water to test them.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:18 AM   #6
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Bob if you are still out there I found two things that I find strange. I used a laser temp probe (usually accurate) and I found nothing higher then 182* well under 230* on any place I checked on the radiator this after running on the road two hours. Next I checked out the circuit on the electric fan one side was ground ok but when I took the fan connector apart I grounded that same terminal and applied a 12 volt supply to the other side the fan started and ran but in the wrong direction. Wrong In that against the natural air flow that I would have going down the road at say 60 mph. Was this fan wired wrong at the factory or am I missing something, any thoughts?

Tri....

Stock OEM fan?

I have seen aftermarket fans wired right but installed backwards.

Does it run when the AC is on?

Bring it up to temp at idle, turn AC on, the fan should come on, ck rotation.
It's possible, but unlikely, that its wired wrong from the factory, but you need to get it to come on with the sensors to be sure. Did you power the fan at the sensor or at the fan connector?

Take the temp at the inlet and outlet side of the radiator. Also at the thermostat housing as the engine warms up to confirm operation, if the thermo is stuck open that may be the cause of the erratic temps.

Also make sure that the cooling system is completely full. Not sure on your application, but some systems have bleed valves to purge all the air. The sensors will not register hot air.

Take the rad cap to a auto parts store have it pressure tested or if it's old or looks suspect just change.

Bob
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Tri....

Stock OEM fan?

I have seen aftermarket fans wired right but installed backwards.

Does it run when the AC is on?

Bring it up to temp at idle, turn AC on, the fan should come on, ck rotation.
It's possible, but unlikely, that its wired wrong from the factory, but you need to get it to come on with the sensors to be sure. Did you power the fan at the sensor or at the fan connector?

Take the temp at the inlet and outlet side of the radiator. Also at the thermostat housing as the engine warms up to confirm operation, if the thermo is stuck open that may be the cause of the erratic temps.

Also make sure that the cooling system is completely full. Not sure on your application, but some systems have bleed valves to purge all the air. The sensors will not register hot air.

Take the rad cap to a auto parts store have it pressure tested or if it's old or looks suspect just change.

Bob
Thanks to you and to others for the imput. Bob I am jest going to take your letter one point at a time in order to see if there is a problem here.

Stock OEM fan ? I don't know looks like it was added the wireing at the fan connector is waded in a bunch and wire tied.

Installed backwards, well I don't think so because the blades on the motor would have no garde at all something I would think airstream would want to avoid.

The AC switch does not turn the fan on but I have been working with the AC lately and with am outside air temp of 85 the air comes out of the dash at 45 right now.I hope that's good we are going to need this to work on our trip coming up.

The test I ran with the laser temp probe was after about two hours of driving and twenty min of ideal time. The the temp never got much over 180*

I did power the fan at the connector on the fan.

I changed radiator hoses before our 19 state trip last year I could have trapped air or have a stat that is stuck open but it's all at 180* isn't that a good place to be temp wise? Jest asking . I will check the cap and try harder to find the scamatic for this model thanks again for the come back.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Tri....



Stock OEM fan?



I have seen aftermarket fans wired right but installed backwards.



Does it run when the AC is on?



Bring it up to temp at idle, turn AC on, the fan should come on, ck rotation.

It's possible, but unlikely, that its wired wrong from the factory, but you need to get it to come on with the sensors to be sure. Did you power the fan at the sensor or at the fan connector?



Take the temp at the inlet and outlet side of the radiator. Also at the thermostat housing as the engine warms up to confirm operation, if the thermo is stuck open that may be the cause of the erratic temps.



Also make sure that the cooling system is completely full. Not sure on your application, but some systems have bleed valves to purge all the air. The sensors will not register hot air.



Take the rad cap to a auto parts store have it pressure tested or if it's old or looks suspect just change.



Bob


More information

On a recent trip across Idaho the fan came on, I heard it at a rest stop. I opened the hood and sure enough I was blasted with hot air from the electric fan. I then disconnected the fan and it was clear the fan was pulling air out of the radiator and sending it in my face.
I need someone to tell me if there 1998 LY is wired the same or should I reverse the direction of the fan or even remove it.
I would think that the fan doesn't come on at anything above 35 mph that only at ideal it would come on and pull hot air out of the evaporator and radiator but why pull it out and push it out the front ?
Please any help out there.
Thanks in advance
Trident
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