How do I remove the electric reel?

[k5cad]

Well, I did my stupid stunt for the year. I backed over my electric cord and pulled it out of the reel by the roots. I see no way out but to remove the reel and reinstall it. Not easy to do. The brackets to both reels (electric and H2O) are bolted to the back of the compartment. The nut to the lower bolt is accessible outside of the compartment. The nut for the upper bolt is buried outside the compartment but inside the frame member. No way to reach it to remove it or reinstall it. I have removed the bottom of the compartment and the door which is attached to it.

The reel or its spring doesn't appear to be damaged. I am convinced that if could reattach the cord it would be serviceable again.

Anyone with any knowledge of how to remove the reel? I searched the archives but without luck.

Ebert Steele
1991 300LE

[startrekker2001]

I can't help with the removal, but the Cable reel has 3 contacts which attach to the cord inside the reel. You may have damaged those when the cord left the vehicle.

I am not familiar with the 300LE. I assume it is a motorhome. Your profile doesn't tell the year so I can't tell if yours might have the same cord reel as my '78. Mine is an

Aero-Motive Cable Reel
120 volt, 30 amps, Model # RVA25A
SN AI2089

AERO-MOTIVE COMPANY INC.
PO BOX 2678
KALAMAZOO, MI 49003-2678
(616) 337-7700
1-800-999-8559
FAX: 616-381-1081

The reason I am so familiar with this info is I had to replace the contacts because the wiring had burned through and I lost 120 power.

If your reel is from the same company, the model is no longer produced. They will build the replacement parts at a reasonable cost, however.

Hope this helps.

[87MH]

Ebert:

Are you sure a nut is back there?

If it's that hard to get to, perhaps they threaded the frame, or tack welded a nut so that a back-up would not be necessary.

Please keep this thread current on your progress (both electric and water reels), 'cause I may soon be in the same predicament.

[k5cad]

Originally posted by 87MH
Ebert:

Are you sure a nut is back there?

If it's that hard to get to, perhaps they threaded the frame, or tack welded a nut so that a back-up would not be necessary.

Hi Dennis,

Yep, hard to believe, but that's the way it is. Sometimes you can manipulate a nut off from the front side buy keeping some pressure on it. But in this case it is a locknut.

Here is my plan of action, at the moment:

1. Air chisel the head off of the bolt to disassemble it.

2. If there is enough room for me to articulate a tap, I will put some threads in the compartment back. That metal is only 1/8" thick, but if the bottom bolt is tightened first it should take most of the load.

If there is not enough room, I will ream the hole out large enough to get a molly bolt in for the reassembly.

Anyone with a better idea?

And Vic, Thanks for the contact info for Aero-Motive. The rig is a 30'MH, 1991 300 Le. The explosion view drawing shows the electrical contact ring in a separate compartment on the reel. I am hoping it isn't damaged.

Steele
Brenham, Texas

[garry]

Depending on the size of the hole a rivit might be your best bet.

Garry

[drboyd]

They also make a gadget like a rivet, but with internal threads. Similar to a moly, but the bolt can be taken out and re-installed at your convenience.

-Don

[zamboni]

I agree...go with the threaded inserts so you can remove at a later date. I've seen them in Northern Hydraulics catalog and Harbor Freight stores and catalog.

Work like a pop-rivet but have internal threads. You can order different sizes depending upon your application and needs...the set I bought were even aluminum.