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Old 07-29-2015, 05:55 AM   #1
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Hot engine

Hello, i had to realize, my big baby needs allways more and more attention...!
While she now is perfectl inside, i had to realize, the engine temp went up to 220 F, while driving in sunny weather!
I am afraid to torn out the radiator, too much "bells & whistles" arround to remove.
I want to flush first the system, but i never did before. Hopefully the temperature will cool down then.
How to do? How to drain the system compleetely (Waterheater, Additional heater under sofa), What kind of anti freeze then? How much?
Any suggests??
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:25 AM   #2
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Your cooling system MIGHT need to be flushed if it has been several years since the last time you flushed it, but if it has never overheated before, chances are that's not the problem. To find out if you need to flush the cooling system, go to your local auto parts store, and get a pH litmus test kit. Follow the directions on the box. If the fluid is too acidic, then you need a flush.

In no particular order, the typical causes of overheating are…
1 - Bad thermostat.
2 - Bad water pump.
3 - Low on coolant.
4 - Cooling fan not working (usually on vehicles with electric fans, not belt-driven fans).

Of these, the easiest to check is "low on coolant." It's not a completely sealed system, but under ideal conditions you could go for years without having to add coolant. So if it's low on coolant, look for a leak. You have to open the radiator cap (with the engine cold) to do the litmus test anyway, so if the coolant level is low, you'll know it right away.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:56 AM   #3
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Are you using antifreeze? What pressure is the Radiator cap?


You may not have a problem.....

A good flush never hurts though....

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Old 07-29-2015, 07:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
What pressure is the Radiator cap?
Thanks; I missed that one in my list of common overheating causes.

5 - Radiator cap is loose, either because it wasn't fastened properly after the last time it was opened or because the spring has weakened over time.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:45 AM   #5
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Inspect for the easiest things first:

Belt driven fans have a viscous coupling which is temperature controlled by the air passing through the radiator. Does the fan roar when temps are high? Or upon startup after parking for a week or two? If not, suspect fan clutch.

Solder bloom in the radiator. Common in that era of vehicles. Look down the radiator at the cap area. (you might need to drain some coolant) Look for white "fur" where the tubes are brazed to the top or side caps. This would require "rodding", or boiling in an acid tank, or replacement, if severe.

Water pump vane wheel slipping in its shaft. Disassembly and inspection, or replace. A flow test may or may not catch it at idle speeds.

Thermostat opening temp.

Cap issue.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:16 AM   #6
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Not really a direct troubleshooting tip but a troubleshooting tool. An infrared temperature gun. By getting temp readings off of the system (hoses, radiator top bottom sides etc, t-stat housing, block etched) you can start to see where the heat is not correct, not bring cooled.

I watched a tech troubleshoot a Ford 7.3L engine thermostat problem in minutes.

And you will use it to check tire, brake, hubs and your cast iron got correct temp for pancakes? Oh yes I did.
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:44 AM   #7
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Brake mastercylinder ???

Hello!
I start a new research today, because i have some troubles with my brake...!
The fluid was allmost gone, in the can, on top of the cylinder was just oily mud!
We have let it entirelly cleaned and changed the DOT 3 fluid, then had to realize, the cylinder is leaking. I was instructed by Peter to measure CAREFULLY the length of the cylinderpiston, but i am afraid to open the system, if i have no new parts for it. I realized the parts are very cheap in the US, but very various...!
My Chassis VIN is :1GBKP37W9G3318146, Airstream VIN is: 1A9BGAU37GJ010760.
Pictures will be posted later.
Thank you for a quick support with suggests, what to buy.
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:49 AM   #8
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His 345 is a 1986, Chassis as well as Airstream
we were looking at this OEM GM Master Cylinder
More Information for ACDELCO 174834
I told him to make sure this measurement matches his old.
If not it may preload the master cylinder over time and lock the brake system or destroy your transmission (yes, happened to me)
He is thinking to also replace the booster along with the master cylinder, but that would mean he would have to match the booster rod to the master cylinder.
Any suggestions ?
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:54 AM   #9
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By the way, i forgot to say "thank's" to all the fellow members, who gave me good instructions to solve my heat issues.
I flushed the entire system with a special product from "Dommermuth", a german company, they develpt a special de-greaser for cooling systems. After emptying the syastem and a refill with pure water, i added his product "Entfettungsmittel" and drove a few days with it in the system.
Then i was shoked about the mass, i got out by draining the system! (Peter, if you want, you can post the videoclip or the pics i have sent you!)
Then the system was refilled with 50% destllated water and 50 % kalzium containing anti-freeze from "BASF", named "Glysantin 48".
This was exactly wat was needed!
temperature now is between 190F and 225F, this is following owners manual from 1986 what is it have to be. (190 - 240 F).
To make it clear, the system was NOT de-kalked, because kalk can be important to keep the system watertight (i have learned from Richard Dommermuth, a "Hero" in coolingsystems!).
After a few 100 miles, a waterhose from Thermostate to Cabin heater blew, i have NOW any EVENTUEL needed replacement hoses with me...!
Temperature is very well now, "BANGLES"run's perfect !!!!!
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