Exhaust

[AccessMaster]

After reading all of the prior posts I still have a basic question.
One of the 3 bolts that hold the exhaust flange to the manifold on the drivers side has broken off. I now have a leak that is very noticable when cold and not so bad when hot. How big a project is it to get the flange tighten up again? Since the bolt is broken off am I now looking at removing the manifold etc....

[dinoburb]

The below was posted prior to my reading the post for the umteenth time and assumed you had headers installed.

>If you can reach the area of the missing bolt I would purchase a new header gasket and three new bolts. Remove (break?) the remaining bolts, clean the both faces of the flange area, insert the new gasket, and insert and tighten the three new bolts. Check with the hot rod places (Summit, Jegs, etc.) for proper bolts (designed for exaust heat) and good quality gaskets.<

HOWEVER:

If your exaust manifold is the original cast iron unit a stud has broken off and that is a more involved repair. You should replace the stud, put on a new gasket (if equiped originally), and tighten everything up. Don't be surprised if another stud breaks as they are probably pretty tired from all of the heat cycles.

Just tightening the remaining bolts will be setting yourself up for a fall in the not too distant future . . . and Boy! will it be loud then!

Take care,

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally posted by AccessMaster
After reading all of the prior posts I still have a basic question.
One of the 3 bolts that hold the exhaust flange to the manifold on the drivers side has broken off. I now have a leak that is very noticable when cold and not so bad when hot. How big a project is it to get the flange tighten up again? Since the bolt is broken off am I now looking at removing the manifold etc....

My experience with a broker stud is...new exhaust manifold, unless it's not broken flush and they can weld a nut on it to remove the broken stud.
I use big brass nuts to keep them from freezing up.

[87MH]

I'm going to chime in here.

I have a different interpretation of which bolts you're talking about.

I believe the bolts you are referring to are the bolts that hold the first section of the tail pipe to the tail pipe end of the manifold.

All these are a little different. On my '87, with the "factory headers" (welded manifold with an expansion joint between the front pair and rear pair of cylinders) the bolts (actually studs) on the drivers side are longer than the curb side due to the fact that the vacuum controled exhaust valve is sandwiched between the manifold and the tailpipe (this device encourages quick engine heating).

Since you probably have fuel injection on your '88, you may not have this valve.

I started to drop the valve out so I could inspect the internals, but the first stud I attacked took an internal twist, did not break loose, but did not torque off. Rather than have to drill the stud out (or worse), I just left it alone.

The good news is that there is enough room to work in the area without having to take off too many accessories.

The curb side is a little tighter, due to the proximity of the starter.

Bottom line is, from my observation, hoping to remove only the studs is wishful thinking. Plan on the studs torqueing off befor they back out.

If you do try to back them out, conjur up a lot of patience.

Heat, heat, heat, tap, tap, tap, soak, soak, soak.

Like the signature lines of one of the forum members, a quote from Mr. Turbo and Bog Frog.

"If you get it REAL hot, and hit it REAL hard, somethin' has GOT to give.

Good Luck.

[AccessMaster]

You gota love it when something goes right. My 1988 454 developed an exhaust leak as a result of a broken bolt at the exhaust manifold / pipe connection. After talking to an old timer who is still working on exhaust systems he verified that a clamp is made specifically to replace broken studs that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold. There are 3 bolts that hold two flanges together with a gasket in between. When these bolts break there is a low cost alternative to spending, or paying to have someone spend, hours trying to remove and replace the broken stud and the others that are sure to follow when the repair is attempted.
The name of the part is "Clamp a Stud". It is manufactured by Nickson Industries, Inc. - Plainville, CT. I got mine at O'Riely Autoparts. It is in their computer. I was really lucky that my local store had a set of these on the overstock / discontinued shelf in the back. There are 4 different parts depending on the size you need. I needed Model 501. It looks like it would work in all cases. Parts 500, 501, 502, 503 are available.
This is a "C" Clamp that fits into the indention on the top of the broken stud and thru the hole in the bottom flange for perfect alignment and fit.
My cost was $15.00.
Amazingly the clamp worked perfectly. It was easy to put on and stopped the exhaust leak.
After all of the help I have received from the forum members, I am glad to be able to add this money saver to our data base of solutions to difficult problems.
Keep on Streamin'
Joe