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Old 03-13-2002, 03:13 AM   #15
Rik
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Banks "Power Pack"

Years ago (when we had more discretionary income) we put a Banks Power Pack on
the 454 in our old Winnie Chieftain. The difference was nothing short of amazing! The
coach is literally falling apart around us -- but the always faithful 454 still happily climbs
the grapevine on I-5 in 3rd gear at 45 mph, always horribly over gross, and often with
the gas pedal not even to the floor! I realize that the Banks is WAY overpriced, and I
will consider putting a Doug Thorley or similar header set on the Argosy... but the
overpriced Banks came with a lifetime guarantee. And it works as advertised --
something not always easy to find these days. Also, it completely eliminates the periodic
replacement of the 454 manifolds that would be our lot without the Banks. Not to
mention the 15% increase in our gas mileage. I know, it sounds like I own stock in the
company... but not so... this has been my sole experience with Banks.
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Old 03-13-2002, 06:16 AM   #16
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Peter,

I went through the file of receipts that the PO gave me with my rig and he did put heddman headers on with Copperseal exhaust gaskets in 1999. Part number 7158, about $35.00 from discount auto. His reason to for doing this was due to a failure of the original exhaust manifolds. It does not look like the manifolds have been touched since.

Frank may know more about it than I do but thinking about expansion and contraction of two different sized pieces of steel (the block and the manifold) I would think a gasket to allow for differing rates of expansion and contraction would extend the life of the new manifold.

Dealers are in business to sell you stuff and may not always lead you down the best path, my advice is to follow the book, or ask a mechanic you can trust.
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Old 03-13-2002, 08:46 PM   #17
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Thank you for the replies!
I went ahead and used a gasket, new grade 8 bolts, cleaned out the threads to get a good torque and used brass nuts on the new studs. All went well and I am pleased to finally have taken care of this.
On to the next project.
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Old 07-07-2002, 07:52 PM   #18
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leaks

Hi peter ,Me again how hard is it to get to the drivers side manifold bolts? the pass side looks like no big deal.Iwas told if I buy replacement exaust manifolds to buy some from a 90s model 454 as they are made from a different type of cast that is less likely to warp in the p30 chassis.Have you heard such a thing. I bet you would have to plug the smog pump holes.Mr gasket makes some extra thick gaskets that I have used on problem manifolds on big block fords that have worked pretty good.I thought about headers but collector gaskets never seen to hold up good.Also on the pass side there is a vacum operated vaulve in the flange that is a leak.What is this? should I dicth it when I do the mods?
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Old 07-07-2002, 08:43 PM   #19
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Larry, if you drive up on 1 or 2 1x6 boards, you get the extra clearance to make the work easy. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and you will have space to comfortably sit down, while working on the manifold. All bolts are accessible,
number one by the power steering is a bit tight.
Not sure about the mid 90's manifolds, they probably fit the head, but do they fit your exhaust pipe? All new manifolds come with the threaded holes. The dealer sells the plugs for the holes as well.
The passenger side has a heat riser, which may have the vaccuum you are referring to. I took mine completely out, since the old heat risers are a constant source of leaks. Living in a warm climate, it's not an issue for me to have a working heat riser.
New exhaust manifolds from the dealer are expensive. If I wouldn't get shop discount, I probably would have gone with headers. Full retail is about 250.- ea.
It's a good idea to retorque the manifold bolts after a while.
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Old 07-12-2002, 07:23 AM   #20
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since this thread is on exhausts, I can relate what I discovered after my long (2000 mile) trip recently. In N Carolina there was road construction where the Interstate narrowed considerably to 2 lanes, concrete temporary walls on both sides, making a nice tunnel with no room for errors in steering. Of course the 18 wheelers were flying by me, as I do about 60 mph- and I had no place to move to avoid a nice sized truck tire in the road. I did manage to move enough to almost pass over it cleanly- but later I noticed it had hit my right exhaust pipe or hanger at the side exit area and turned an almost 90 degree
angle into a 130 or more. The pipe at the bend is narrowed, and the hanger is nicely reshaped into a new and useless design.
My rig has the original hangers still underneath which lead the pipes further back and out, as they now exit before the rear wheels. My guess is it will be easy for a local muffler place to bend a pipe to match the current config, and I can easily mount it. Another project, thankfully small, as that tire could have caused real damage to the coach or us.
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:24 PM   #21
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Pipe exit area

I have noticed that alot of MH's have their pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels. I have dual exhaust that have pipes exiting behind the rear wheels, which caused a big problem at CW when I had the shocks done. They wanted to charge extra for removing the hangers so that the shocks could be replaced. While I am thinking about redoing the exhaust system to a banks or gibson or just plane ol headers, where should I have the tailpipes exit?
By the way, where is the spare tire on these things?
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:48 PM   #22
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I think it was 83 before they factory put an intergrated spare tire carrier on the MH. My 76 has a PO installed spare carrier, but my 78 has NO SPARE! and no provision for carrying one at this time. I am trying to find the space underneath for the spare.

I have looked at the Gibson exaust, but it is spendy. Banks is too. I know it has a lifetime warranty, but I can get 2 or 3 full systems if I use regular headers for the same bucks!

I am looking into the ceramic coated headers. The kind that have the coating on the inside and the outside. The coating is supposed to reduce under hood temps and also protect the metal from the excessive heat that the exaust system produces. The Ceramic is supposed to also help exaust flow due to the smooth finish in the tube and it is said that the engine runs cooler and quieter than other headers due to the heat being pushed out the muffler. I have read all this, I have no real world experience yet.

Headers 139.00
Coating inside and out 239.00
2 free flow mufllers (Dynomax) 100.00
Pipe, clamps, hangers. gaskets 150.00

628.00 for the nuts and bolts, maybe 200 to get it all bolted on and I am still 200+ less than the Gibson stuff from CW that the chome will flake off of before I leave the lot.

I think I would save the 200+ and take my chances that in 10 years I might need to do it again. Don't forget to add an extra 60 bucks if you want chrome tips!

Any of you gearheads want to chime in and correct my assumptions please do!
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Old 09-12-2003, 05:18 AM   #23
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Spare

I have the same quandry with the spare. There is not a lot of space/clearance underneath, and it is not a convenient location. They are fairly heavy and get pretty nasty after a couple of years when bottom mounted. OTOH, short of the rear bumper mount that is the only other area I have been able to come up with. The rear mount covers my generator opening and means a flip mount and some type of cover.

Exhaust

I would spend a few more bucks on the headers. Most of the $139 ones don't fit that well and are thinner tube and flange metal. The price will double for decent ones but with ceramic coating they will be pretty much lifetime.

One thing I did was put in an H pipe, it helps low end torque. If you are thinking about OD, make sure it is out of the way. I ran it just behind the tranny crossmember and had to flatten the top about 1/2" when I installed the OD. Not going to hurt anything, just meant pulling the whole exhaust when I wouldn't have had to if it were 8" further back.

John
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:40 AM   #24
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When I had new mufflers installed, I had them move both exhaust pipes to the street side forward of the rear wheels.
It really helps keeping the exhaust fumes away from the open door during warm up and those times you are messing around. After all the gennys exhaust already exits curbside.
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:19 AM   #25
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I have a 85 270 MH 454 that I bought from the orginal owner. It had the orginal exhaust and it was in bad shape. After taking a trip with my brother in his 30' Bounder and watching him pass me by on gentle hills, I did some research and had CW install a Bank power exhaust system.
What a difference, exceleration on to freeways is awsome, no longer do I watch my brother pass me by, but now I pass him with easy. Improved gas mileage, engine runs @ lower rpms.
I just came back from a trip to Santa Barbara and there is a grade north of San Luis Obispo that has claimed many a RV. As I approached the grade, 3 or 4 RVs pasted me trying to get as much speed as possible, half way up I was in the fast lane saying BYE BYE.. Regarding CW, I was in for a new hot water heater, they noticed a small leak in the right exhaust and took care of it .. Service is everything.

We have a saying " It's only expensive if it doesn't work."
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:41 AM   #26
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Exhaust

Our '92 300LE picked up 2 1/2 MPG ( 65 mph = 10 mpg) by installing Thorley headers and a 3" Flowmaster series 70. Had several bad headstuds that needed drilling and tapping...nasty. The Thorleys come with a Y-pipe with a 3" out that heads into the Flowmaster and then the original cat. Single 3" down the driver's side and out in front of the rear wheels. We have Jacobs wires and a stock ignition. I left the inner panels off, meaning to bleed the brakes, but a couple of trips later, I'm seriously considering leaving them off, due to the improved airflow through the doghouse. Power is good solo, but I'm trying to choose between a 502 tow motor and a Whipple supercharger so I can pull the racetrailer.
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:14 PM   #27
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The idea of putting both pipes out the street side forward of the rear wheels is good. It's true that while the engine is running, i get that darn exhaust through he door! Now I have to figure out brand names.
Just a thought for California dudes buying from out of state. I just went to DMV to get title and license registration. 7.5% TAX!!! Plus, they said it has to pass smog. So Monday it's going to get what as someone recommended, a pre-smog. If it doesn't pa$$, they'll fix it $o it will. Then i can smog it real like. Double the cost, double the plea$ure! This rig, which was 13K, just went up to 16K fast.
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:27 PM   #28
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Please Help

I am considering buying a 1989 class A 28 ft RV with a 454 in it. I have been trying to get it checked out. My mechanic said this. The exhaust pipes are red hot. He said no one (and the seller cannot be depended on) could figure out how long the seller had been driving it in this condition. Thus the intake or exhaust valves could have been at risk for burning. Even doing a compression test may not show the fact that this vehicle may have serious existing damage. Could someone please explain this stuff to me. Its all very new and complicated to me and I coudl reward whoever helps me with a shredded memory foam pillow like a tempurpedic as that is my business.

For further clarifiction. apparently the engine block runs hot and gets the manifolds hot, now the manifolds or something is made of stainless steel, which apparently makes them less likely to warp or easier to fix if they do warp.

I guess a real danger is that its 'running lean' . Please somebody help me understand whether it is a terrible mistake to buy this RV.
Please call 775 746 1355 or 1 877 212 8951
zanvibar@hotmail.com
Thanks!!!
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