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Old 10-05-2002, 12:57 PM   #29
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Replaceing Transformer

Larry;
This is not a conventional stepdown xformer. There a Link that talks about the converter. http://www.digitek-asi.com/gmc_manua...ter%20Brochure
If you could find it, If may cost more there a new univolt and there is a possibility that your diodes may be shorted and it's putting out A.C.. I'm not sure what would make your battery die like it did.
I have the meter that Peter was talking about and the one nice feature is that you know when you gen-set is puting out power if it has a built in delay.
Cheers.....Bill
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Old 12-01-2002, 10:28 AM   #30
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the fix !?

Over the holiday I went to camper world and purchased a Intelipower 9100 55 amp with a charge wizard (micro chip gizmo) that susposed to regulate so as not to overcharge.Any how it was a breeze to hook up and seems to be the hot set up for replacing the univolt a 70 lb. boat ancor .The new unit only weighs 3 lbs.I hope the differance of 77 amp as oppossed to 55 amp won't make to big of differance .I also got the plug in volt meter as I lost my indicater light. No big deal .Thanks again everybody for the help.Happy holidays to all.
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Old 12-01-2002, 01:03 PM   #31
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Peter, we went through this dead batterty routine constantly on both Motor Homes, and spent quite a bit of money having someone try to trace it down. One conclusion in our case was the Step, but we eliminated that by advice at the factory. Never did solve the problem until my mechanic installed a disconnect on the Engine Battery. Now we turn off the Kill Switch and disconnect the engine battery and logically, we have no problems with the batteries. That may be the only economically feasible solution
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Old 12-11-2002, 12:27 PM   #32
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More Battery questions

I had an "electrician" do some work on my Excella... when I had the statarter battery go flat the other day, I started to poke about. I am pluged into shore power at the moment, so I looked at the wire diagrams, and noticed that the wire from my univolt runs only to the house batteries! I have a selenoid to jump house to atarter, but I'm wondering if I can run a wire from the univolt to the same unit that disperses charging from the alternator to both sets of batteries? I'm also wondering if I can add a couple more batteries to the house system... at the moment I have two six volt. Can I add two more twelve volts, and put them all under in the compartment next to teh starting battery?

One more question... my alternator will only start up when I rev up the motor after atarting?

Thanks, Sebastian
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Old 12-11-2002, 02:15 PM   #33
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as for the alternator starting up -it will be running whenever the engine is turning.
As for whether or not it is charging your system, that's another issue. If you have to rev up to get it to charge you could have one of a few different things going on there- alternator belt is loose, and not turning the wheel properly, alternator is bad and not putting out enough charge, volt gauge on the dashboard is sticking and causing a bad reading.
The alternator should be charging 14v or more from the start up of your motor.
Good news is they are cheap to replace- there are a number of threads here with that topic covered. Mine was 35 bucks...but you can go with more amp rating as needed...
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Old 12-11-2002, 02:26 PM   #34
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Factory gauges are terrible. If that is the reading you are using, I would get a meter and check the output of the alternator. It will put out more as the rpm increases, but is turning faster than the engine so it won't have to be much above idle and it should work fine. If not a parts store should check it for free if you take it in.

Batteries should be changed as sets, and they should all be the same size. From what I have seen here there is not much regulation on the Univolt. I would buy a maintenance charger and plug it in one of the outlets. It will keep the batteries up and not destroy them.

John
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:36 PM   #35
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Re: More Battery questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Sebastian DeWitt
I ......but I'm wondering if I can run a wire from the univolt to the same unit that disperses charging from the alternator to both sets of batteries? ......
Thanks, Sebastian
Sebastian,
No, you should not run a wire from the univolt to the Motor battery (or the isolator, which is unit you are referring to).
Yes, it would charge the motor battery, but it would also discharge the motor battery when using the coach 12V systems, possibly leaving you stranded without starting power.
There is a good reason for the two 12V systems to be isolated from each other.
I do see a possibility by using a relay that opens when 110V is ON, which would allow the charge current to the motor battery only with the univolt running.
But I am not sure what the above would do to the voltage regulator of the alternator when driving and running the on board generator??
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Old 12-11-2002, 08:08 PM   #36
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brushes

Me being an equiptment mechanic I;'ve seen in the past when brushes wear out in altenators they have to spin faster in order to make enough juice to make idiot lights go out. I'm not saying that this is the problem for sure but if its the stock unit and depending how many miles or hours the rig has on it it would not be unheard of . I haven't came across any rigs past the early 60s with 6 volt batteries.?
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Old 12-12-2002, 10:01 AM   #37
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I bought a decent battery charger from Wal Mart- charged up my coacjh batteries, finding that one was bad, and won't hold charge. I disconnected it, and checking the other one, and the chassis battery I find they hold charge well, and if need be i flip on the maintenance charger to juice them back up.
So far they have been holding up since I installed a disconnect to "unplug" the radio from the circuit. The memory is lost, but it works well as I only use the motorhome a few times a month anyway.
The charger was fifty bucks or so, is capable of starting power up to 75 amps and has a deep-cycle for rv/marine batts.
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Old 12-12-2002, 12:29 PM   #38
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I think I figured out a good way to do this... change the push button switch that activates the selenoid that conects the two sets of batteries if one or the other needs help (starting he motor or generator) with an on/off switch. That way I can turn it on for a while when I have the univolt on, and charge the atarter battery, and turn it off when I'm done.

As for alternator... it spins when I start up, but a voltage tester shows noting... when I rev it up, it jumps up to 14v, so it's probably a brush as speculated.

One thing for shure... every time I get under "Slinky", I find new wires that need replacing... just did the ground wires that where attached to the motor block... big mess of oil and dirt...

Sebastian
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Old 12-12-2002, 12:38 PM   #39
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you'll get used to it, but the good thing is that you get to know your rig and get more comfortable with the things that can go wrong as time goes on.
I got stuck after a trip in the summer , while at the dump station, the motor would not start. I knew it had to be a wiring situation, and jumped underneath to look at the starter wires, and sure enough one had burnt through. I got it started, drove home and replaced the wirs with heavier gauge, and better insulated wiring.
As for the switching on the starting battery- I would think an occasional charge from a good charger would help out more.( imho only)
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Old 12-12-2002, 12:42 PM   #40
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I would check and see what the duty cycle is on the solenoid before trying to use it in a continous mode. A lot of the auto starter solenoids are pretty short.

John
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:26 PM   #41
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Thanks John, your probably right. I'll check. I feel like I'm closing in on a good way to do this...

Thanks, Sebastian
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Old 12-12-2002, 07:38 PM   #42
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Lightbulb

I used the 100 amp cut off swithes to act as a disconnect for both my house and starter batteries to eliminate power loss while in storage. Since these are manual in nature, I would not see why they would not work.

Another option is to get a Relay that can take the load across it in DC but be AC activated so the relay would only be closed if you are on shore power. You would want a manual override or additional cut out relay so that the main relay would not close when the engine is running. I can picture the wiring in my head but putting it in words is hard to do....
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