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Old 08-29-2003, 08:05 AM   #1
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Changing out the Black water tank

What is the proceedure to change out the black water tank on my 1988 Classic 345? I have a crack about 3 inches long in the neck and I can't find a way to repair it.
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:06 AM   #2
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Have you looked into plastic welding? That's gotta be a lot cheaper and easier than changing out the whole tank...

If the tank is fiberglass, it needs mat and epoxy; if it's HDPE, try the welder. I'd mess with it a long time before I'd yank it out...

Here's a Plastic Welder at Harbor Freight

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Old 08-29-2003, 01:22 PM   #3
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Normally the tank is encased in a box made of steel and the box is mounted to the frame with 1/2 or 9/16 bolts. You will need to remove the toilet from the coach first. It is normally bolted to the floor/tank, and be sure there are no additional attacment points under the toilet. Then disconnect the black water dump valve from the drain of the tank. Depending on year you may have to disconnect the grey drain from the lav sink. It sometimes is plumbed into the black tank. Then you can drop the pan and tank using a floor jack and a peice of plywood large enough to support it. Install is the reverse of removal.

Let us know what you decide, I am intruiged by the idea of the plastic welding, but access may be an issue.
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Old 08-29-2003, 02:36 PM   #4
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My tank is plastic. It is not encased in steel. The area is readily available for platic welding. How do I know what type of plastic it is and the proper type of plastic rod to use?
Seems like I could find someone in Houston with the answers, but or city is just not big enough yet.
I have a 1988 Classic 345.
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Old 08-29-2003, 02:55 PM   #5
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Disclaimer: I have never done this myself. Read the instructions. Your mother warned you about this. Your mileage may vary.

Here's a couple of links: http://www.hotairtools.com/how_to_weld_plastic.htm

http://www.i-car.com/pdf/upcr/procedures/pr/pr01.pdf

http://www.plasticsmag.com/ta.asp?aid=3517

http://www.plasticsmag.com/ta.asp?aid=3750

http://www.malcom.com/html/tech_tips.html


Good luck!
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Old 08-29-2003, 06:40 PM   #6
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I have repaired three black and one gray water tank with success. I have done body work on automables and the prcedure is the same. I use fiber glass mixture with gause tape. The fiber glass is a mixture of apoxy and hardner. You prepair the area for application(direction on cans) then apply the gause tape and apply the mixture with a putty knife or wodden applicator supplied with kit. The mixture get very hot when mixed together. Let dry according to directions, the apply asecond coat. Let set overnight ,the fill tank to test. It worked for me.
I love to find tanks that people have discarded. Made good money ,after repairing. Before you replace your tank, see if you can find one that will fit in the same location without modifications. Average price for a new tank locally is $80 to $140. Repair kit about $25. Food for thought. Blue Moon
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:24 AM   #7
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I tried to repair the tank with an epoxy kit. It leaked immediately. However it was not the proceedure you described. Where can I get the kit you use? I would like to do it your way.
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:56 AM   #8
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Go to an auto parts supply store . NAPA auto supply or one semilar. Ask for Fiberglass Resin Jelly, # 765-1240, (pint size is samlest you can buy), and Fiberglass Redin # 765-1285 (NAPA part numbers) and some gause material, (piece about 12" square). The material they use for tape bedding sheet rock is the same thing and is alot cheeper. It has a glue substance on it, so it will stick to the fiber glass tank easly.
Apply the gause tape to the effective area, then after you have mixed the resin and jelly together (mix a small amount,because it sets up fast) and apply over the gause tape. Let set up according to the directions on the can, then apply a second coat. You will need to have the material overlap the area repairing at least one inch.
I have seen Bell Telephone Company do the same process when they wanted to keep moisture out of a line connection.
Good luck. Blue Moon
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:03 AM   #9
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Thanks Tomy.
I'll check it out.
I also found a platic welding company that will fix it as well.
It's nice to have a couple of options for a change.
Joe
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