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Old 12-29-2003, 07:33 AM   #15
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Other Possible Drains

Check for a Propane Detector, CO Detector or Smoke Alarm wired directly to the battery system. In addition, if there was any Entertainment subsystem (amplifier, antenna signal strength meter, etc) left by the PO owner, these also might be wired without a switch.

Previous advice about a “flow through” type of Amperage Meter was right on. Start at the fuse block, and check each circuit. If the drain does not go through the fuse block, anticipate a lengthy “search and discover” mission, as the manifold electrical systems get quite involved. Always check with the largest range scale first, and use a meter that will also detect Milliamps, as a very small current could be causing your problem.
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:53 AM   #16
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Still looking...

Thanks Brett and Dennis -

That's a great idea about pulling fuses! That will be the next thing I try.

The light switches are also a good idea. I found one near the sink that was flipped to on but when I turn it off nothing happens? On or off seems to make no difference (even checked it at night). It looks like a regular house switch plate which may have been added later. Do any of you Argosy folks have a switch right above the sink to the right of the window?

Take Care,
Al
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:37 AM   #17
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That does not sound original. I have a switch there in my 78, but it is to turn on the overhead light in the kitchen. My 76 did not have a switch there, just a TV hook up point.

What is your floorplan? Rear twins, or rear bath?

I would start there since the switch "seems" to do nothing. Pull it and chask if it is a 12 volt switch or 120 volt switch. One of the other things to check is the wall plate for the TV connection. If you have the factory plate the amp is always on. If you have a replacement plate there is a button to turn it on or off. The factory plate is 4X4 with the 12 volt outlet coming out pointing down. The front plate is the only one with a signal amp in it.
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:24 AM   #18
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Photo of switch...

Hi Brett -

Thanks for helping me track this down. My set up is a rear twin and I've included a pic of the questionable switch. It has a red mark on the top of it as if it were very important. Not sure what to make of it though.

,AL
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Old 12-29-2003, 11:03 AM   #19
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Mystery Switch

Al:

That switch sure looks as if it goes to a 120 volt circuit.

The 345 has one at about the same spot, mine is the switch for the "instant" hot water spigot. If yours is not equipped with the "instant" hot water, could it be for the wall outlet or the inverter?

I'm in the process of removing the "instant" hot water, I plan to rewire the inverter circuit so as to have a way to conveniently turn the "hummer" on and off, other than the circuit breaker above the bed.
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Old 12-29-2003, 11:36 AM   #20
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Al,

I would also see if the outlet next to the switch is somehow connected to that switch. In some of the 80s model Airstream's there was a switch like that that allowed you to run either the Convection micro, or the AC. The PO may have had something like that done based on the cabinet mounted Micro in your picture. I agree with Dennis it looks like a true 120 Volt switch.
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Old 12-29-2003, 04:55 PM   #21
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Yes my 82 has the switch to change power from the roof a/c unit or the microwave. It is mounted near the sink as well.
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:43 PM   #22
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Interesting...

Ok so I'll have to do some testing to see what happens. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks so much for all the input. Really helps a novice like me get up to speed

Take Care,
Al
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:20 PM   #23
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Draining Battery

Al;
There are two ways to deal with the problem. One is to go to Harbor Freight and purchase an Automatic Battery Float Charger, Lot number 41288/42292 for $16.99. Keep it plugged in and it will not overcharge the battery.
The other is to disconnect the negative pole of the engine battery and attach a test lamp between the battery pole and the cable. If the light is bright you have a big drain. Have someone watch the light while you pull and replace each 12 volt fuse. One of them will kill the light (or at least significantly reduce the intensity). The short is in that circuit so start tracing it and find it.
Be aware there may be small drain for smoke detectors, TV amplifiers, etc. If they are draining the battery, then the float charger is the way to go.

Fred
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Old 01-14-2004, 12:13 AM   #24
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vacuum step=battery drain

I had the mystery "engine starting" battery drain for a long frustrating time. It turned out to be my vacuum step. I had replaced batteries, checked the diodes in the generator, called Peter in Austin countless times, cussed a bunch, and finally started pulling the chassis fuses. Sure enough, when I pulled the fuse that runs the vacuum step I had no more battery drain. The interesting thing is that the vacuum step only drains the battery when the door is closed. I haven't fixed the problem yet; in fact, I'm not really understanding why the drain when the door is closed....so for now I just pull the fuse when going to sleep, or when the coach door will be closed for long periods. It is a bit of a hassle to pull the fuse, but at least I know where that mystery drain is coming from.
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