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Old 11-25-2003, 06:16 PM   #1
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1997 30' Excella
1983 31' Airstream310
Austin , Texas
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Astrodokk on the road-tail lights out

Got a call from Astrodokk on the road to Seattle.
His tail lights and driving lights are out.
Head lights and turn signal work.
He found a replacement Head light switch and installed it. Still the same. All fuses checked ok.
Any thoughts?

1983 310 Classic Motorhome
1997 30' Excella Trailer
AIR #13
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Old 11-25-2003, 06:30 PM   #2
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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Bad Relay, missing or broken grounds


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Old 11-25-2003, 10:38 PM   #3
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, Alaska
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light switch

I dont know if this helps, but my headlights were blinking off and on, then after a trip or two the lower beams went completely out. I finally traced my problem to the corroded hi/low beam switch on the driver side floor. I replaced it and my lights work fine. This may not have anything to do with the tail lights, but I think it is good to check the switch anyhow. Good luck.
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:15 PM   #4
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1963 24' Tradewind
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vote for relay

My 87 Honda does this until it warms up inside. In my case, there is a relay that doesn't engage. Headlights work, but running lights will not turn on until the relay "clicks." Look for a box with headlights (big wires) meet a third smaller gage wire.
Wish him good luck!
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:58 AM   #5
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1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
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Fuse Block?

Might check the connections on the back side of the fuse block.

I assume he has checked the voltage at the fuse.

"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."

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Old 11-26-2003, 12:45 PM   #6
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Check for voltage and ground at the light sockets, he will know which side is his problem.

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Old 11-26-2003, 05:54 PM   #7
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1983 31' Airstream310
Pflugerville , Texas
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Posts: 69
I hope that Astrodokk has the light problem fixed by now. Does any thing work in the back besides the marker lights? If not there is a connector that transition between Chevy wiring and A/S wire. It may have failed.....Bill
Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:59 PM   #8
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Santa Rosa , Northern California wine country
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I'm Baack! (in Arnold voice)

Hi everyone. Peter PM'd me about this thread. Thank you Peter for your help while on the road. I can't believe I had your number stashed in my papers in the MH. What luck.

Well, here is the report.

Working normally: headlights, turn signals, brake lights, and emergency blinkers (try using those for a few hours at night!)

Still not working: running lights, tail lights, and dash instrument lights.

The problem is that the 20 amp fuse keeps blowing in the fuse box under the dash. I kept replacing them and tinkering with the controls to see if any particular thing set it off. But it still happened whether I had brights on or low beams, heater or not, radio on and off. Peter suggested replacing the light switch, which I did, but no change. At least that is ruled out.

My suspicion is that when I got hit in the left front by my neighbor, it damaged something by the headlight wiring harness, because the fuse wouldn't blow until I actually hit a rough spot on the road, and the left part of the grill would move and rock, then lights out! I also suspected the carb electric choke, but it never happened before I got hit. I read the above posts and it's possible that the sockets are the culprit, but like I said, it never happened before til the accident. I am going to wait until the adjuster comes by to evaluate the damage and inform him that this was caused bt his client and get it fixed. I'll stay in touch.

Thanks again for everyone's concern.
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Old 12-02-2003, 05:12 AM   #9
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All of the wires that feed into the lights are accessible from underneath without too much trouble. If one of the wires there is cut/grounded it should be obvious. If you can get the adjuster to add it to the claim and then you fix it yourself you win additional funds for repair as well as knowing it is fixed so you can use the MH safely again before you have it repaired.

I recently pulled my grill and it had a busted mounting tab. I repaired it by adding a 1 1/2 inch of flat bar aluminum to the backside where the mounting tab used to be and used 3 rivets to hold it on. Then drilled a new hole for the mounting screw. Now it is rock solid. Simple fix for the problem. I doubt that the repair shop will be able to find a new grill and if yours is not bent or otherwise damaged then the tabs being snapped are likely why it moves.
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato

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Old 12-02-2003, 06:50 AM   #10
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huntsville , Alabama
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the grill is heavy metal (thick) a welding shop can fix that .
2007 chevrolet 2500 duramax 6.6
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2004 classic 28 WB , Pro Pride P-3 hitch
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Old 12-02-2003, 07:35 AM   #11
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1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow , Oklahoma
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Sounds like a hot wire got pinched and is now touching ground when you are in motion. I would suspect the (parking) running light wiring on the side that got hit.


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