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Old 10-06-2003, 05:03 PM   #15
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2004 28' Classic
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huntsville , Alabama
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well i beat the heck out of those horns . not a sound. checked the fuse it is ok. when they worked i called it noise.
will probably get a new set of something to make some noise. like i said lol

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Old 10-06-2003, 05:40 PM   #16
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Re: Air Horns

I have a 1985 325 A/S M.H.

The Horns did not work when I bought it. Took a
while to track it down. The Horns were just plain no good. They were Sparton Electric Horns.
They were mostley plastic....

The fuse was blown so when I replaced that then went topside with a volt gage and when the wife
pushed the horn button I regestered 9 plus volts.

I went to one of the Nation wide Boating supply stores and got a set of dual horns looked identical and base
was transferable to new horns. Payed about $80.00 for the set. I do believe they are a much
better quality also. and they are stainless.

Helps this helps someone.

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Old 10-06-2003, 09:18 PM   #17
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1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow , Oklahoma
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I repaired a set of electric horns a few yrs ago for a friend and remember the fuse was good and I finally found a contact between the horns that was corroaded. Cleaned the contact and they worked fine. Don't remember the brand but they were dual horns and VERY load.

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Old 07-25-2004, 09:36 AM   #18
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Before we went to the International at Lansing someone stated that their airhorns were just for "decoration", mine were too until I took the time to take the covers off and cleaned out about 6 inches of bugs, dust, leaves and other detritus that had accumulated over 19 years of travel. Now I have screening over the mouth of the trumpets. Wondered why the newer "Hadley's" had covers on them. It takes about 32 psi air to make them work. By the way, be careful when you open the gas cap cover after a period of outside parking---I had a nest of yellowjackets in there once.
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Old 08-03-2004, 02:06 PM   #19
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Reno , Nevada
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Air horns...

I realize this is a pretty old post...but I thought I'd throw my 3 cents in (yeah, three). I am VERY VERY new to the motorhome thing, infact the horns on my 74 Argosy MH do not work either. Looking at them from the ground it APPEARS that they are electric... (two wires out of each).

As far as air horns work I have a LITTLE more experience...When I was 18 I decided that I was sick of people (local high school kids mostly) walking in front of my car while I had a green light...I couldn't hit them...the PA system I had installed in my 84 Honda Civic didn't seem to get their attention anymore...what better choice than some Air Horns?!?!!! I went to an auto wrecker "pick'n pull" type place and found myself most of a horn setup (both diaframs, one trumpet, some tubing and the pull switch). I eventually found another trumpet at another place and I was ready... I got a 7 Gal air tank with guage and put it in the trunk...I wired a 12V emergency tire pump to it via a switch mounted in the dash...when I my air got low I simply pump it up a was good times. This is all to say that when I actually got the horns they sounded VERY weak. I took them apart and there was all kinds of junk and kinda rusty and all that. A toothbrush, some WD40, some elbow grease and several hours later they were echoing off the houses accross the valley like noones business. It was by far one of the best modifications I ever did to that car... (if anyone would like to hear more I'd be glad to blabber)

Well that's about all I had...I was just going to suggest a REALLY GOOD cleaning.
Now I need to figure out why MY horns dont work....

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Old 08-05-2004, 07:25 AM   #20
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Angry Air Horns don't work

My air horns were for decoration when I got the A/S. Several years later i decided to find out why????? Took the covers off and found about 6" of bugs, bees (even a Yellow Jacket nest) leaves, feathers, dirt and other dentritus. It takes about 32 psi air to make the horn work. I have a screen over the trumpets now to slow down the accumulation. The "Hadley" horns have a cover that is not just for looks. By the way, when Yellow Jackets are active, be careful when opening the flap over the gas cap. I had a Yellow Jacket nest in there once---nasty things!!!
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:01 PM   #21
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
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My Spartons finally stopped working for good about a month ago. Found out the hard way when a car cut across two lanes to make a right directly in front of me at about 30 mph.

Replaced my horns last week with some from CW. Dual trumpets with an electric compressor. Had to remove the old mounts and vulkem, was able to route the tubing through the old hole and mounted the trumpets with three SS screws.

Drilled out a few rivets on the interior (where the aluminum meets the front cap) which was enough for me to pull the old wires through the existing wire hold in the overhead locker. Ended up using a 1 1/2" conduit mount to contain the pump. Wired it up and it worked great.

$65 for the parts and about two hours of work. Got to use it on the road as well. It certainly had the effect I was hoping for - scared that "drifter" right back into his lane. Much better than the "Sick Honda" sounds I had coming out of the old horns.
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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Old 06-12-2005, 07:26 PM   #22
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
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I've received a few emails and PMs about this so I thought I would post some more details and some pics about my horn replacement. Hope this helps:

As already mentioned I started by removing the old horns. This took the most time as the vulkem had become hard. I used a heat gun to soften things up, removing all of it with a plastic putty knife. I removed the forward mounting bands and once I could see the horn mounting screws I backed them all out slowly and removed the horns themselves. I cut all four wires and everything came off easily with a little tug.

I left the forward support s I planned on using it for the new horns. Although, after cutting it down with the cutoff tool I realize it's just too far forward for these smaller horns. If Hadleys or other larger horns were going up there I think you could re-use them. I ended up removing them completely using the same process as the horns themselves.

The new horns had a brass fitting that was meant to come straight through the roof of the RV from the outside in. In my case I wanted to use the hole left by the wire chase from the old horns (no need to add holes to the outside of an AS) which was above the outside of the upper locker. I didn’t want to see a fitting and some tubing sticking out of my ceiling so I decided to keep the tubing in the wall by cutting down the fitting by about an inch. This would put the 90 degree elbow and tubing in between the inner and outer skin and allow me to route the tubing into the locker.

I drilled a hole in the upper locker for the tube. I then had my helper (my nine year old son) push an unfolded wire hanger through the inner hole toward the outer while I stood on a ladder outside. Once the wire was through I used it to feed the plastic air tube back down into the locker where my son then removed the wire hanger and pulled the air hose into the locker.

I attached the fitting, elbow and air hose to the horn and seated it all on the roof. I used three SS metal screws to hold the horn in place. One went into the hole provided; the other two went through two new holes I drilled in the plastic base of the horn to secure the back of the horn. I did this because the original horn mount required on that threaded tube passing through the roof and acting as the rear mount for the horn. Since I was doing this differently I added these additional screw holes to hold down the back of the base from the outside.

With the horn now mounted on the outside I mounted the compressor in the locker. I used one of those conduit clips from home depot (about 75 cents) to secure it to the cabinet. I then cut the air line to size and inserted it onto the compressor.

The last step was the wiring and the worst part of the process by far. I needed to get the original electric horn wires into the cabinet. After trying a bunch of stuff I ended up drilling out about six rivets between the skin and the front cap and a number of the upper cabinet rivets. This allowed me to get my hand up in there and pull the original wires through. It was hot, itchy and a very tight space but it finally worked.

There were two 10g wires with wire nuts on each splitting into the four wires from the original horns. I ended up re-using the wire nuts and just extended the 10g wires with new wire into the locker. I crimped some spade connectors on them, tucked them into the wire cover and cleaned up.

All in all not a terribly hard project, maybe a solid Saturday afternoon. I still need to go back and seal around the new horn base and skin and put some Olympics in the old forward bracket holes. But it works great and is plenty loud.
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Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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