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Old 07-01-2014, 12:35 PM   #15
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1984 31' Airstream310
Honokaa , Hawaii
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I do have the big honkin lever next to my seat that seems to lock me in hard. Is that just a clamp on the drive shaft?

Yes. It's a cable operated brake drum at the front of the driveshaft.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:00 PM   #16
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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Keep an eye on the rear output shaft, mine leaks, though we've replaced the seal a number of times and it floods the e-brake housing, causing NO e-brake!
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:38 PM   #17
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
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Originally Posted by jkaftan View Post
Called some brake specialists here in town and they are suggesting I replace the hoses between the Hydro-boost and the power steering pump. He used the term scalloping in the hose. He said that it is not likely the rubber lines attached to the caliper because the wheel releases when I turn off the engine. He said start with those hoses and then go for the Hydro-boost and or the power steering pump.

I noticed that I could not turn the wheel when the rig was at a stand still. I could but I had to put all I had into it. Anyway it seems to be either the power steering pump, hydro-boost or the hoses in between.

I did see a post on a P30 forum where a guy with similar symptoms had the brake light switch interfering with the brake pedal being about to return all the way. After replacing all of these parts his fix was to adjust that switch so that the pedal could fully disengage. Talk about pulling your hair out.

I am grateful that I do not appear to have the Auto Brake. I do have the big honkin lever next to my seat that seems to lock me in hard. Is that just a clamp on the drive shaft?

Oh and this is a gas motor Mayco.

John
I believe the hoses are way too large for this type of problem. Also shutting off the engine wouldn't open up the hose. The PS pump only provides oil under pressure, the hydro-boost has the control valves, I believe you have a tired valve. Unless the brake light switch was changed recently it is not likely the problem. If the linkage is binding due to corrosion it could be a problem. Reach down and pull the pedal up, if it moves check the linkage. If it returns to the stop on it's own go back to the hydro-boost.

This is a 31 year old truck, you cannot spin the steering wheel at idle like a new Caddy, rev the engine a little and roll forward a little and it will turn with little effort.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:02 PM   #18
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Shortly after we got our 310, the brakes started dragging and eventually stopped us dead in traffic. Had the master cylinder and hydroboost replaced and the brakes were good for a few years until hoses started acting up.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:12 AM   #19
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1983 30' Airstream 300
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How did you determine that you needed to replace the master cylinder AND the hydroboost?
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:16 AM   #20
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Yeah now you have me thinking it is the hydroboost. Mechanic said there was nothing left on the brakes. I guess I ground them down to a nub front and back. I am having him replace the front but I am leaving the back for me to do. He told me $1800 for the back. I found the parts for about $300. That is a lot of labor?

BTW I couldn't find a jack. Do I just use the levelers?
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:31 AM   #21
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"How did you determine that you needed to replace the master cylinder AND the hydroboost?"

Mechanic said it needed a m/c for sure, and recommended replacing the hydroboost just in case. Having just gone through the fun of calling for a tow truck while blocking a lane of traffic, I took the recommendation.

Ours has a big bottle jack in one of the storage drawers, but I have not used it yet. I guess you could use the levelers to get it up in the air but I would get it on jack stands before working on it, I have heard of these beasts rolling off of the levelers.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:30 PM   #22
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Yeah now you have me thinking it is the hydroboost. Mechanic said there was nothing left on the brakes. I guess I ground them down to a nub front and back. I am having him replace the front but I am leaving the back for me to do. He told me $1800 for the back. I found the parts for about $300. That is a lot of labor?

BTW I couldn't find a jack. Do I just use the levelers?
Do not use the levelers, especially the folding kind. You will lift the body way up before you lift the wheels and once you lift a wheel you have no parking brake.

Chock the front wheels front and back and use a bottle jack under the axle spring pad. You only have to lift a little to get the tire off the ground and the body stays almost level. Don't lift the tire any more than to see air under it. The higher you go the higher you have to lift the tire off and back on. It's not really difficult work but the parts are heavy so take your time and think ahead as you work. You don't want to play with the heavy stuff more than you have to.
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