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Old 05-11-2010, 04:47 PM   #1
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1962 19' Globetrotter
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removing interior walls -1962 Globetrotter

Hi folks, our 1962 was so rodent infected that we've gutted the unit down to the interior walls. That is the next chore.

Anyone have experience with removing the rivets? How about cleaning the walls once removed?

Plan is to remove the interior walls, then the flooring before building her back up. All help is appreicated.
Jane and Henry
Orchard, CO
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:55 PM   #2
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Hi pratte and welcome, I think I would clean the walls before removing them, it would be easier because they are fastened and won't be flopping around like they would when they are off. Most any kind of good cleaner will work. To get the rivets out just get a good fast drill and a 1/8" drill bit and have at it. Hope this helps.

Marvin
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:31 PM   #3
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Don't want to disagree with Marvin, but I found it easier to take the panels out, lay them against a wall, and hit them with the TSP and pressure washer out in the open air.

The hardest part is the ceiling panel and end caps. I think you might want to leave those in place.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:41 PM   #4
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An air drill is best cause it is faster, but any electric will do. Buy several packs of 1/8 drill bits. When one gets dull, and it will, toss it and get a sharp one. One trick, when the shank of the drill fills up with the heads of the rivets, get a pair or pliers, grab the heads and put the drill in reverse. The heads will spin off the shank of the bit in a few seconds.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:10 PM   #5
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Removing the bulkheads, interior skin and floor will reduce the integrity of the monocoque construction until reinforced.
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:11 PM   #6
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Don't want to disagree with Marvin, but I found it easier to take the panels out, lay them against a wall, and hit them with the TSP and pressure washer out in the open air.

The hardest part is the ceiling panel and end caps. I think you might want to leave those in place.

Good idea on the pressure washer, never even thought about that but I didn't need to take ours out so we just washed it inside.

Marvin
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:37 PM   #7
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Removing the bulkheads, interior skin and floor will reduce the integrity of the monocoque construction until reinforced.
Good thinking. Might be a good idea to remove the panels a few at a time, clean behind them and put in new insulation, then replace the panels before going on to the next section.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:36 PM   #8
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As long as your not moving the camper, the monocoqueisity (is that a real word?) should not be an issue.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:57 PM   #9
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You might invest in a rivet removal tool from Aircraft Tool Supply or other aircraft tool suppliers.It's not too expensive and really made the job easier.It is spring loaded and you start the bit in the rivet indent the push.It grabs the head and keeps it from spinning.
If not ,at least get a #30 cobalt tipped bit which is the perfect size for the 1/8 in rivets.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:00 PM   #10
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PS Jane and Henry, Check my post "Gutting the 65" to see pics and an explanation of how I removed the floor sections intact with a multitool from HF and a Sawsall.
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Old 05-12-2010, 05:47 PM   #11
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wow - lots of good thoughts

Thanks for all the advise. I might even consider a combination of techniques for the walls. Sounds like cleaning them inside for the interior facing sides could be easier when the panels are still attached. Additionally, its something I could do without Henry's help. When we get them removed, the pressure wash technique could be used to clean the backside and wash off old insultation or any residue that the interior cleaning leaves.

I especially appreciate the tip on the bit type, we've already ruined 6 lower quality bits! And the suggestion for Rivet tools, anything that expedites the job will be helpful.

I read the thoughts about stability of the outer shell, would the order of the removal make a difference? I was thinking in addition to the cleaning, removal was necessary for replacing the flooring.
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:33 PM   #12
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If your pop-rivets have a steel mandrel - the center shaft that a pop-rivet 'gun' pulls to bind the rivet until it breaks away at a pre-set force- no drill will easily force it back let alone cut into it. That is when the bit bites the steel and snaps or the drills boring wanders off center.

As pre-drill preparation taking an sharp thin awl and tapping the center 'back' allows the drill to cleanly defeat the rivet flange.

Also be wary when there are air gaps between the aluminum sheets, one may get the outside flange removed but have the rivet 'tube' left perching from the inner sheet.

Often the steel mandrel exists in the hanging tube which makes it 300% harder to remove, using a thin nail or narrow tool-steel punch BEFORE drilling to push the mandrel all the way through is easiest cure... Then a sharp wood chisel will cut it cleanly but sometimes not - careful as it will cause the drilled hole to go oblong and weaken the next rivet if you try and cut the tube with steel mandrel.

1-in-100 will fight back every which way - I've enjoyed grinding them off but there are other ways to remove the extreme stubborn ones... Maybe someone else will share?
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I read the thoughts about stability of the outer shell, would the order of the removal make a difference? I was thinking in addition to the cleaning, removal was necessary for replacing the flooring.
Birdwell is right about the mono thang. It's Ok as long as you don't tow it or have any wild parties in it. If you do you can X brace it from the inside with 2x4s
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:56 AM   #14
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welcome fellow 62 GT owner! whats your VIN? are you a OH or CA? always on the lookout for sisters. got pics?
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