Our new 1964 'Honey'

[nmbosa]

Originally Posted by Banjoboy

Thanks for the quick reply. Glad to hear it has been used on a frame already. And successfully. I read the reviews online and it sounds like it works if you treat it gently.

What type of media did you use on your frame?

We bought bags media from Alaskan copper here in Seattle. I can't remember the full name, but it started with "green" something-or-other and was about $25 per 50 pound bag.

[Banjoboy]

Just Checked out Alaskan Copper's website.

Alaskan Copper & Brass Company and Alaskan Copper Works

Looks like they supply aluminum sheets too. I have so much to learn about rivets and sheet metal and axles.

Anyway, did you get sheet aluminum there too? How are their prices compared to some of the online places I see everyone suggesting on this forum?

I really like the idea of going to a local place to get most of my stuff.

[nmbosa]

Originally Posted by Banjoboy

Just Checked out Alaskan Copper's website.

Alaskan Copper & Brass Company and Alaskan Copper Works

Looks like they supply aluminum sheets too. I have so much to learn about rivets and sheet metal and axles.

Anyway, did you get sheet aluminum there too? How are their prices compared to some of the online places I see everyone suggesting on this forum?

I really like the idea of going to a local place to get most of my stuff.

Alaskan Copper & Brass is awesome. True old-school industrial facility with a long Seattle history. Their prices are excellent, but they are primarily a whole-sale supplier, so some of their minimum order requirements are too high for a small project like ours. For Alclad (the primary Aircraft grade material our trailers are made from that can be polished), they only sell giant industrial rolls.

They do sell sheets of non-Alclad aluminum with a minimum order of only $150.00. I used those for my belly-pan sheets and the price was around $45/sheet back in 2010. I recently needed just one sheet and the price was $47.00 at Alaskan. I went to Metal Shorts near Boeing Field and it was around $100.00 for the same sheet.

[Jamespio]

Banjoboy, just a suggestion, but I am only two weeks into my own renovation, and I already know these trailers are money pits. You put up a picture of an electrical panel and asked if there was any reason to keep the old equopment rather than replacing. The only reasons to keep the old ones are that (1) sheet metal box technology has not changed in 50 years; (2) as long as the busses (the bars inside that wires connect to) are still solid and the connections there and on the circuit breaker studs have not corroded, the box will work just fine; (3) these things are stupidly pricey for what they are; and (4) a little sanding and paint will make yours look like new.

I know, two weeks in and I'm already looking for ways to save money, pretty sad. But like I said, I've reno'ed old houses, so I know how quickly things can just get out of control.

[Banjoboy]

Originally Posted by Jamespio

Banjoboy, just a suggestion, but I am only two weeks into my own renovation, and I already know these trailers are money pits. You put up a picture of an electrical panel and asked if there was any reason to keep the old equopment rather than replacing. The only reasons to keep the old ones are that (1) sheet metal box technology has not changed in 50 years; (2) as long as the busses (the bars inside that wires connect to) are still solid and the connections there and on the circuit breaker studs have not corroded, the box will work just fine; (3) these things are stupidly pricey for what they are; and (4) a little sanding and paint will make yours look like new.

I know, two weeks in and I'm already looking for ways to save money, pretty sad. But like I said, I've reno'ed old houses, so I know how quickly things can just get out of control.

Good advice Jamespio. I will keep some of the stuff. I know this is not going to be cheap. An electrical box is an electrical box. I can sand and use spray paint with the best of them. Although I have put the old water heater on the dump pile.

I got the tires off last night and sprayed a good liquid wrench on the two RUSTED bolts holding the axle on. I called the dealer in Tacoma and he said DEFINITELY bring it in and they can get me the right one. I am really glad to live close to a large metropolitan area.

Our oldest son is graduating from the University of South Florida on Friday so we are off for a week. One day at a time I guess for the Globe Trotter.

[Jamespio]

YEah, that's the other thing I've learned in two weeks, the work won't go quickly, either. One day at a time is probably the right attitude on a job like this.

[Banjoboy]

Took the axle off today.



I used some liquid wrench a couple of days ago and broke the bolts loose.









Next I am going to cut the belly pan out to address any issues on the frame.

[Banjoboy]

Had some time to take most of the floor out. I also cut out the belly pan. Exposing the frame for cleaning, repairing and Por-15ing. Good, productive and fun day.

[Thisisliving]

Run new 110v and a new box. Chuck all the old electrical panel stuff... Wire it like you would a house. Add new boxes with ground fault protection. They are cheap. The existing wire is better than what you could get these days. Check it carefully. Get a new converter. I added protection for the wire where needed. Last thing you’ll need is a short in the wiring. DON’T forget to add new carbon and propane detectors. With a new DC panel with new fuses. IF you do it now it could save you and your family.

[Banjoboy]

Right now my wife and I are really trying to come to an agreement about the layout. When we do I will order new tanks. There was no gray tank and I have no idea where the fresh water tank was. It was not there when we got the trailer. I know they historically were under the front window. I plan to put a new one into the frame box. I read some of the comments about the belly pan and I think I am going to elect to keep it off. Just leave the part that curves under the trailer up to the front to back frame member. This will give me access to the tanks and allow me to build a frame to hold them that hangs down from the 4 inch frames current space.

Thisisliving, I did take out the wiring when I was cleaning the inside. I really debated about it because it really looked pretty good. There was also a lot of wiring that was just run that was never used. Some of T.V. antennae wire too, you know that flat brown stuff. I had not seen that in years.

Most of the rubber grommets that the wire ran through look great. I will try and find some more for any new runs I may need to make.

This is the hard part for me. Laying it all out and visualizing what could be. But I have a lot of work to do before I need to be too worried about that. Lots of frame work is sitting right there waiting for me.

[Becky B.]

You can find grommets for running your wire through at Lowes. They have a few different sizes.

[Banjoboy]

Used a grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the hitch, took off the old jack that was rusted and not working and got a new one. Put a metal prep on the hitch and wheel wells. I think it turned out pretty good.



Now I need to get some new tanks and weld in supports.



I do have some questions. I would like to do a small bathroom in the back. I only have about 21" from the side of the trailer to the rear window. Is it possible to get a toilet and sink, maybe a wet bath in a 21" width? I will try and create a picture of the layout I am thinking of. I have to get this done so I can order a black and gray tank and get the floor back in. Any thoughts?

[NJtoNC]

I would like to do a small bathroom in the back. I only have about 21" from the side of the trailer to the rear window. Is it possible to get a toilet and sink, maybe a wet bath in a 21" width?

i see where you are going. if you put the bath on the passenger side (i think, maybe its the drivers side - you better check), the forward wall can be a bit wider because when you are looking in the rear view mirror from the drivers seat, i's at an angle, and from that position you can see the whole window even if one wall is wider than 21". I am looking at a similar issue with the bath for my 57. i just have to remember what side it is

[ragin-cajun]

Just an idea: you could extend your bathroom over the window. That's the original layout in my 1961 Bambi. In the pic, if you can visualize the center of the trailer(placement of the fan at top) you can see that the bathroom covers about 5-6" of the window. The curtain runs through the gap at the rear of the wall to cover the BR portion.

[Banjoboy]

Originally Posted by NJtoNC

i see where you are going. if you put the bath on the passenger side (i think, maybe its the drivers side - you better check), the forward wall can be a bit wider because when you are looking in the rear view mirror from the drivers seat, i's at an angle, and from that position you can see the whole window even if one wall is wider than 21". I am looking at a similar issue with the bath for my 57. i just have to remember what side it is

NJtoNC - I think I see what your talking about. I made a bad drawing from ms paint.



I can see how that would work. I am not sure it is on the right side for the view part you were talking about through the rear view mirror.

Thanks for the input. It all helps me to see how it can work.

[Banjoboy]

Originally Posted by ragin-cajun

Just an idea: you could extend your bathroom over the window. That's the original layout in my 1961 Bambi. In the pic, if you can visualize the center of the trailer(placement of the fan at top) you can see that the bathroom covers about 5-6" of the window. The curtain runs through the gap at the rear of the wall to cover the BR portion.

Ragin-cajun - Thanks for your input too. Your picture is helpful. I have thought about just splitting the window. How does that work logistically for you? I guess you would just have to do the lock on the window on both sides of the wall to open it. Does it feel awkward? Do you have any problems with that set up? Here is what this would be like.



Do you have more pictures of your bathroom? I would really like to see how it is set up on the inside.

[ragin-cajun]

Banjoboy, yes, to open the window, I have to unlatch the BR side first, but the crank is above the stove, so it's not difficult to open--and the whole unit is SMALL so reaching around the wall is really easy! :-)

I'll be glad to get some pics for you, but it'll be first week of July before I can do it--sorry. It's locked up in storage and we're gonna be out for a while.

Hope I was able to give you food for thought!

[Banjoboy]

Thanks Cajun! It is interesting that they used that design originally in the Bambi.

I got my wife the coffee table book from David Winick, Airstream Custom Interiors. He does a really cool bathroom in back on the side, but he the shell he has, has a smaller window offset to one side.

I reread your post this morning and looked at your picture again. It looks like the wall that bisects the window has a gap so the window is not blocked by the wall and your curtain door extends to cover that gap.

[ragin-cajun]

Yep, Banjoboy, you got it! I was surprised to see that layout, too, but it's original and I've seen the same on pics of other units like it.

My light next to the stove isn't original thanks to the PO, but the wall cut out with the plexiglass cover is. The design allows the stove light to indirectly light the BR so that there is no electricity in the BR. One of these days I'll come across the original lighting, but its been a goose chase for two years now!

[ragin-cajun]

Sorry it's taken a while. My summer is really busy-in a good way! 😃

Here are the BR pics if you're still interested.