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09-19-2008, 03:26 AM
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#121
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Oh Marc, Now you got him worried... He is now looking for an excuse to be sick, so he can find out if it is right or not. I am going out on a limb here and my crystal ball predicts it will be laughable how easy it will be.
You guys have fun playing with your toys this weekend. We are off to a WDCU rally today. It is 5:25 am and everything is hooked up and ready to roll. Now if my family would just get up we could hit the road.
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09-19-2008, 07:53 AM
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#122
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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You do have the reverse orientation brackets. You did not get the 1" higher profile though.
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09-20-2008, 03:01 PM
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#123
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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So, Aerowood, what does it mean.....your last response.
So I was unable to change out the axle that I ordered from Dexter. I had forgotten that I needed the new wheel and tire. not to mention that steel rims that hold a baby moon, are not something most stores have. So I figured I would do other things, like finish removing the interior skins, remove fiberglass, cut out od wires, and finally remove the door and windows. Now she is naked!!!
It is going to be fun shining the edges and completely re-sealing and glassing the windows. Shining the exterior skins, even in areas that will not be seen. Nice to think about. The sound I remember the most about today was the back of the rivets hitting the interior floor on the inside as I drilled them out from the outside.
So, here are some pics of how she ended up today.
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09-20-2008, 03:35 PM
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#124
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3 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Colorado Springs
, CO
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
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There's something about that bank of 3 windows on the street side that architecturally and stylistically look way cool on this model.
__________________
Craig
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09-20-2008, 03:58 PM
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#125
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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I think what Aerowood means is that there are two different "profiles" to the mounting brackets.. the "high profile" gives one more axle height, as it stands further from the frame than the "normal" bracket that you have. I think that's fine, and actually looks better, as I find the tiptoe look of some trailers with newer axles topheavy.
I'm still confused by needing new rims though. Did you go to a 5 lug axle from 6? If you do need steel rims for a 6 lug bolt pattern, I can give you mine for almost nothing. They have the clips for babymoons, and aren't the split rims. They would need to be painted though.
I too like the three window design. I do like the Flying Cloud model windows as well.
Marc
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09-21-2008, 03:24 PM
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#126
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl
So, Aerowood, what does it mean.....your last response.
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Ditto what 3Ms75Argosy said. I don't think that Airstream used the 1" higher profile until 69
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09-21-2008, 04:57 PM
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#127
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3 Rivet Member
1966 22' Safari
Chico
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 178
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Andrew,
I just replaced my axle a few weeks ago on my 66 Safari. One thing I did that was very helpful was after dropping the old axle, I held up a chunk of 3/8th plywood and made a template.
I then cut it out with a jig saw and fit it to the new axle.
This template mimics the plate coming down from your frame that will attach to your brackets. I found that when I tried to slip it over the axle it wouldn't fit. The factory welded the bracket on the side between the bracket and the brake drum. The weld bead prevented the square cutout from slipping over the axle tube. The cutout section had to be opened up about 3/8th of an inch. I wouldn't have known this until I had jacked the axle up into place. That would have been a PIA since I was working by myself. If you use a template you can drill alignment and mounting holes on the ground where it is much more comfy!
Sorry I don't have install photos. As I said, I was working by myself and was a little busy!! Best of luck with your install. Fire away Andy.
NUTZ
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09-22-2008, 06:44 AM
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#128
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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Windows
I actually took quite a few black and white photos. I love the look of it with all windows out. It feels so clean and crisp.
What type of aluminum goes on the inside walls. Is there a certain name and guage for it? Alclad? How much does it typically sell for by the sheet.
OK, before any of you jump down my throat with opinions, I am thinking about exchanging the end portions of the interior with some custom cut panels. I am not sure if it makes sense yet, but it was a thought. Painting it would be alot easier....
Who knows, now it is off to work.
Andrew
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09-22-2008, 07:13 AM
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#129
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Andrew,
If you are going to paint the aluminum do not waste your money on alclad. There would be no need to spend the extra money to just cover it up with paint. I buy all my aluminum from Airparts Inc. Homepage. They are a family business and I have been very pleased with their service. I think the interior skin is .025. If you plan to polish it use the 2024 T3. If you just want the look of aluminum use the 5052 which is a mill finished aluminum. Be fore warned that any aluminum shows every finger print and smudge, so it is a real pain to keep looking clean. I know this from personal experience, because my entire bathroom is 5052 aluminum.
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09-22-2008, 11:31 AM
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#130
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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A-Merry-Can (JP) buys his aluminum from a place down here on the southside, IIRC. I can't rememeber the name right now. You might send him a PM. Nice looking work. Keep it up!
Jim
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09-22-2008, 12:41 PM
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#131
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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Aluminum interior
Thanks so much for the comments. I am still u in the air about the interior being all aluminum. Mainly I wanted to do it because if I don't like it, I can always paint it. So 2024 T3 if I want the polished look. Does anyone have a picture of the polished look. Can anyone out there send some pics of their bathroom with aluminum?
Andrew
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09-22-2008, 12:57 PM
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#132
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Rivet Master
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
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Hey Andrew-- if you check Overlander62's (Frank's) blog for May 12, you'll see some pretty good pictures of his aluminum bathroom. He went with the mil finish rather than polished. "Mil" basically comes out looking somewhat like a "satin" finish, you'll see in the photos.
Anna Lumanum: May 2008
-Marcus
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09-22-2008, 02:49 PM
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#133
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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Mil Finish Interior
I have decided that I am going to more than likely finish the interior with Mil finish. The only thing I want to make sure of is that I can keep the cabinet that is in the front above the window. I guess I can just attach it like the side cabinets are attached. I was wondering how a shiny interior would be and think the satin would be the best.
Question. What do most people use to cut small cut-outs, such as a rectangle for a outlet? i have the large electric snips, but this is definitely not the tool. I want something to cut sharp corners without ANY bending of the metal....
Window parts. I need to repair two windows. The bar arms that crank the single pane windows out have broken off on my side window. I assume I could probably order this part from InlandRV. Although, I need also the actual window with metal molding around it too. Maybe I can make something. I am unsure about the front window as it simply pushes out by hand. I would like for it to be a crank out window as well. Pictures are attached.
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09-22-2008, 03:16 PM
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#134
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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looks to me like you are missing the other three parts of the frame. around the glass. Our windows are different and I do not have much experience with your style. Contact Steve at Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! and he can tell you all the things you need. Steve has great knowledge about all the window eras and will set you up right.
The aluminum can be cut with electric shears, hand shears, table saw, jig saw, or router. Aluminum is actually easier on tools than some hardwoods are. Just take your time. if you cut too fast with power tools the problem is that the friction melts the aluminum and it begins to clog the teeth of the blade. The aluminum can also be glued onto most surfaces using contact adhesive. As Marcus stated, I did my whole bathroom in aluminum and there are photos of how I did it on my blog. I wish I had more pictures to show you, but I lost all my photos due to a computer hard drive crash.
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09-22-2008, 07:48 PM
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#135
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Colville
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl
...Window parts. I need to repair two windows. The bar arms that crank the single pane windows out have broken off on my side window. I assume I could probably order this part from InlandRV. Although, I need also the actual window with metal molding around it too. Maybe I can make something. I am unsure about the front window as it simply pushes out by hand. I would like for it to be a crank out window as well. Pictures are attached.
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This picture looks like your missing window openers are similiar to mine
But, this picture makes me think you have a different version
Are you Ohio built or California? According to Fred ( 47WeeWind) the two factories used different openers for '64. Check out this thread for more information on the type used in my Ohio built '64. Unfortunately I don't have any experience or information on the bar type opener it looks like you have in the second picture above.
__________________
AIR 12256
Currently Looking
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
2001 Honda XR650R
Currently Looking...for an Avion Truck Camper (or a Classic Argosy MoHo)
"In regione caecorum rex est luscus." GP
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09-22-2008, 08:27 PM
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#136
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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[quote=GreatPumpkin;619498]This picture looks like your missing window openers are similiar to mine
This picture is my front window. The others were of the side windows. I have the crank that fits into the space seen above, but it does not attach to anything.
We'll see, I'll keep everyone posted.
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09-22-2008, 11:21 PM
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#137
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Colville
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl
This picture is my front window. The others were of the side windows. I have the crank that fits into the space seen above, but it does not attach to anything.
We'll see, I'll keep everyone posted.
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If it looks like the ones in the link I provided, then it attached to a little nylon "keeper" that slid in the window channel. The crank raised and lowered the window, the keeper slid freely in the channel, while keeping the crank and window "attached".
__________________
AIR 12256
Currently Looking
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
2001 Honda XR650R
Currently Looking...for an Avion Truck Camper (or a Classic Argosy MoHo)
"In regione caecorum rex est luscus." GP
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09-23-2008, 03:17 AM
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#138
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Like I was saying... I think you are missing some of your frame. Such as the frame of the window. In this post you will see the window cranks and the way the arm holds out the frame... Anna Lumanum: a few tiny little bites.... On the end of the crank arm is this plastic clip Nylon Friction Pad and it slides in a slot on the back of the glass frame.
The other photo with the crank at the top appears to have only the top of the glass frame on it and the bottom and sides are missing. Was there glass in this and did they work before?
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09-23-2008, 07:18 PM
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#139
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3 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Like I was saying... I think you are missing some of your frame. Such as the frame of the window. In this post you will see the window cranks and the way the arm holds out the frame... Anna Lumanum: a few tiny little bites.... On the end of the crank arm is this plastic clip Nylon Friction Pad and it slides in a slot on the back of the glass frame.
The other photo with the crank at the top appears to have only the top of the glass frame on it and the bottom and sides are missing. Was there glass in this and did they work before?
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Correct, I think the front windows are missing the cranks with arms that hold the frame out. that should be easy to correct.
The other photo, you are also correct, the bottom and sides are missing and the glass. no glass in this when I purchased the trailer. The arms that hold the window are attached to a cross bar that turns as I crank the crank. I could remove the cross bar all together and replace with two cranks like on the front and back windows.
I'll figure something out.
I just got the wheels and tires today. Axle replacement should take place this weekend. Andrew
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09-24-2008, 12:53 AM
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#140
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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I've got 3 trailers spanning 5 years, and they all have different window cranks! I think my '64 has the same kind yours does. One single crank on one side, with an arm that runs across in the frame, and has 2 lift arms. I bet your windows don't have locks on them, either. Right? I found replacement gear boxes somewhere on the internet a long time ago. Maybe it was blaine windows? Anyway, I haven't had a chance to install them yet. Too much other stuff going on. The problem with my windows, having no lock, is they rely on the gear box being tight to keep the windows closed, and as we all know, those gears strip out easily. That lets the windows crack open just a tad, especially when traveling.
I'll be working on the trailers all day Saturday if you want to come out and check the windows out. PM me.
JP
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