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Old 09-13-2008, 03:58 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Hey, I can't even see the POR 15 on your hands from here! : ) You must be proud to get that shell back on. Is that some special OSB, or did you seal it - it looks nice and shiney. Just FYI, the local bike shop remodeled and put oiled OSB down, it looks and feels nice underfeet when walking around the store.

Marc
It is Advantech OSB with a 50 year warranty if that means anything. I also coated twice both sides with oil-based polyurethane. It is 3/4 thick. I bolted everything down with over 50 3/8 and 1/4 elevator bolts with fanged washers and lock nuts with regular washers. Finished bolting everything down today. It really feels nice to have it back on and solid as a rock. What a challenge and stress removing and reinstalling it was. I am going to go back under the trailer tomorrow and POR-15 all bolts and other areas that were missed, mainly the bottom of the frame.

Thanks, today was a really great day, alot was accomplished. Today I not only finished bolting everything down, but I alsoinstalled Olympic rivets to the plate that sits in the middle of the front wall. I have not used the rivet shaving tool yet, but look forward to it. After everything was bolted and riveted in the front area, I applied some adhesive remover to alot of areas, removed all of the identity plates and airstream plates, removed the tail lights, the old awning bar across the top, the vent covers for the fridge and stove fan. Then I applied a thick coat of Removeall 220 to the whole skin. I assume that it had a clear coat since the stuff that scrubbed off was thick and gooey sp???

Tomorrow I am contemplating beginning to test out the polisher/sander with Nuvite compounding polish, BUT I am afraid my girlfriend is going to be pissed off if I do.

Attached are some photos.
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Old 09-13-2008, 04:11 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by 2333 View Post
Awesome Andrew, it's been less than a month and you flew through what takes most of us a year (to get the shell back on). Did I miss the part where you put the new belly pan back on?

Anyway, it looks great.
I did not put a new belly pan in, I installed a pan that the black tank sits in. Is it called a pan? Either way, that's what i call it.

Thanks for the compliment. I guess I am just really ready to use it. I really was focused mainly on getting this first portion of the project done so that it is dry inside. I am really looking forward to compounding the outside and getting the windows cleaned up.

My axle is coming in next week or so and then I will install it and document everything. It is a Dexter Axle and I am looking forward to seeing just how difficult it actually is...Then I will rewire everything, insulate, and clean up the interior skins. I need to figure out how I am going to make the plastic vent covers stronger, or maybe replace them with aluminum covers if I can find some that look exactly like the old ones. Any ideas other than putting fiberglass in the old ones.

Anyone with electrical diagrams that include inverter, converter, isolators, solar options,AC, etc.....I would be very happy to see them. Please.

Pictures from today are not very interesting. Once I start to compound polish this thing I will show the before and after.

Andrew
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:10 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
............I am going to go back under the trailer tomorrow and POR-15 all bolts and other areas that were missed, mainly the bottom of the frame.
.............................
I did not put a new belly pan in, .....
Andrew
By belly pan it is meant the aluminum skin under the trailer.

I too am curious to see this, as I am struggling with this.

Your comment about going back under and applying another coat of POR-15 makes me think you do not have the belly attached which makes me wonder how you put the shell back on as this has to go over the overlap of the belly panels that are attached to the channel on the floor.

Yneed to slow down. How can I justify my years+ restoration and here you are doing it in weeks. Give us a break.

Gene
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:45 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC7039 View Post
By belly pan it is meant the aluminum skin under the trailer.

I too am curious to see this, as I am struggling with this.

Your comment about going back under and applying another coat of POR-15 makes me think you do not have the belly attached which makes me wonder how you put the shell back on as this has to go over the overlap of the belly panels that are attached to the channel on the floor.

Yneed to slow down. How can I justify my years+ restoration and here you are doing it in weeks. Give us a break.

Gene
Yeah, I know what the belly pan is, I simply called the metal surrounding the black tank a pan. No belly pan is on.

As for installing the belly pan the way it was originally installed, wrapped over the U Channels, I am not going to do it that way. Nor would I wish that on the next person that restores this 44 years from now.

As for slowing down, I wish my mind would slow down sometimes. My girlfriend wishes that I would slow down or atleast not spend so much time on this project. however, she knows that it will allow she and I to enjoy our travels so much more.

The interior is going to take some time. My uncle is a finished carpenter and he is going to come down and help me build the interior out. his work is amazing and I can't wait to see what he can do with it. I have all of the original stuff for patterns. So the rest of this project will take alot longer.

Andrew
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:30 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
Anyone with electrical diagrams that include inverter, converter, isolators, solar options,AC, etc.....I would be very happy to see them. Please.

Andrew
Try these for the original wiring and plumbing schematic in my '64 Overlander:

http://www.airforums.com/attachments.../6/wiring2.jpg

http://www.airforums.com/attachments...6/plumbing.jpg
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:14 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
....................
As for installing the belly pan the way it was originally installed, wrapped over the U Channels, I am not going to do it that way. Nor would I wish that on the next person that restores this 44 years from now.

...............
May I ask what are your plans for attaching the the belly?
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Old 09-14-2008, 04:01 PM   #91
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Belly install plans

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC7039 View Post
May I ask what are your plans for attaching the the belly?
I was thinking that I would attach the belly almost like it was previously, except I would just slide the edges in between the skins and the U channel. This would allow water running down the sides to not enter the pan below, kind of like the way roofin shingles are installed. In terms of attaching it, I am going to use Olympic rivets that will go through the belly pan, the upper skins, and into the U chennels. I will also use Olympic rivets to attach the belly pan to the outrigers as was previously done. I am not going to skimp n rivets underneath.
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Old 09-14-2008, 04:09 PM   #92
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Compounding Nuvite

Today was yet another day I had been waiting for, a chance to see what the skins would look like after compounding. I spent roughly 4 hours compounding and accomplished alot.

Am I supposed to wash off the leftover Nuvite off of the skins afterwards? If so, what?

There are some areas that look like they are going to need a tougher grade of Nuvite. I am going to need to rent some scaffolding to get to the top.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:30 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
Today was yet another day I had been waiting for, a chance to see what the skins would look like after compounding. I spent roughly 4 hours compounding and accomplished alot.

Am I supposed to wash off the leftover Nuvite off of the skins afterwards? If so, what?

There are some areas that look like they are going to need a tougher grade of Nuvite. I am going to need to rent some scaffolding to get to the top.
clean with mineral spirits, before and after
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:51 PM   #94
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The Polishing Fairy came to visit

Don't you wish you had one too?
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Old 09-16-2008, 03:37 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
I was thinking that I would attach the belly almost like it was previously, except I would just slide the edges in between the skins and the U channel. This would allow water running down the sides to not enter the pan below, kind of like the way roofin shingles are installed. In terms of attaching it, I am going to use Olympic rivets that will go through the belly pan, the upper skins, and into the U chennels. I will also use Olympic rivets to attach the belly pan to the outrigers as was previously done. I am not going to skimp n rivets underneath.
Hey man, Great work!

I understand what you're planning on doing with the belly, but I would caution against relying on olympic rivets. I planed on replacing a panel on my Trade Wind with them, and was advised against it by the VAP guys (episode 70). You really should consider getting a rivet gun and bucking in solid rivets. You can order a used gun online at the yard store, or even find one on ebay pretty cheap.

Olympics really aren't as strong as solid rivets, and the point where the trailer attaches to the floor channel is one of the most structurally important pieces of the trailer. I don't think it would fly off in transit or anything, but all the bouncing around will loosen the rivets over time. If you can remove the lower walls on the interior, you'll have no problem bucking in solids. It takes about 10 rivets to learn the technique, so practice on some scrap metal.

Another thing that will potentially (if not almost CERTAINLY) happen when you use Olympic rivets is this. The rivet, when tightened, expands 3 or 4 legs perpendicular to the rivet against the skin. This pulls the front of the rivet down and forms the bond. I use Olympics all the time for patches where it's just 2 pieces of aluminum skin. The problem comes when you try to rivet into a channel, and those extending legs on the back can't fully extend. The rivet won't get a good bond, and the stem will snap off before it's come out of the head enough to sand it smooth. This will make it look like a pop-rivet, and leave a hole for water to get into.

Take a look at the attached pic of a patch I did on my globe trotter. There are 2 rivets on the left side of the outer curve that ended up going into the ribs. See how the heads have a hole in them? It will frustrate you to no end! When I remove the interior skin on this one, I'm planning on replacing those 2 with solids and FINALLY getting the haunting images of an Olympic with a root canal out of my head! I think I tried it 2 or 3 times and this was the best I could do. :S

That's my 2 rivet's worth!

Jordan
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:25 AM   #96
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Olympic Rivets

OK, Jordan. I see. Olympic rivets are actually not what I see on the outside of my airstream? Correct? They are all Solid Rivets? That makes sense. Well, I guess I will just have about 400 Olympic rivets on hand in case I need them in the future.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:33 AM   #97
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I agree with everything that was just said. He is very right about every aspect of those olympics and solid rivets except one thing.... it only takes about three solid rivets to get the hang of it. A solid rivet is just that "Solid". It makes the best connection and should be used when ever you possibly can. I think a commercial vendor that does not sell solid rivets will come on soon a dispute this statement, but do not be fooled solid is "SOLID".
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Old 09-16-2008, 05:19 AM   #98
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Should I use 5/32 solid rivets? What length would you order? Do they sell flanged solid rivets? What vendor should I support? Andrew
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