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Old 09-01-2008, 10:24 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by AirsDream View Post
I use one almost like in the Harbor Freight ad, but air powered ... got it from an aircraft factory!!?? That and an air drill and some Clecos and rivets and a rivet gun and dolly, and you're off to the races!

For layout, consider a) using the old parts as templates; and b) for laying out "new" curves, you can get a lead-lined plastic gizmo at drafting supply shops that you can bend to any curve and it will stay put while you use it to draw lines on the Al.
What are Clecos?

As far as the lead-lined gizmo, that is exactly what I am talking about, something that I would never have found had it not been for you.

THANKS, Andrew
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:29 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can View Post
For the curves, I actually popped the lower c-channel off the shell when I lifted it and used that as a template (kinda hard to see in these pics).



Be sure you seal the floor with something. Especially the ends of the plywood. That's where the water does the damage.

JP
I have read a few threads about penetrating epoxy among others. I am loving how hard and durable the POR-15 and Sterling Silver are coming out. So, I would like to use something that is of such quality to seal around the edges of the wood. Should I seal the whole bottom portion, the top seams, or the whole top. Should I just cover the whole floor, since it is all succeptable SO?? to water damage? I know it is preference, but I tend to go above and beyond. This is my toy, you know

Andrew
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:37 AM   #73
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I sealed the bottom and edges really good on mine. In retrospect, I would have sealed the top equally as well. That's what I did on my GlobeTrotter project.

JP
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:31 PM   #74
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What are Clecos?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl View Post
What are Clecos?
Clecos are temporary fasteners for aligning panels or sheets of metal while riveting. They help with keeping things aligned and in place. They look like this installed:



You remove a cleco and place a rivet in it's place a couple at a time.



They come in different sizes:



You probably need mostly 1/8" = copper & 5/32" = black, we also have 20 or so of the brass (3/16") ones for screw holes. Depending on the size of your project determines how many you need at once. Most likely, 1-200+ each, or as most will tell you "more than you have". Good thing they are cheap!

You can shop around and find them for $.33 - $.43 each, depending on the quantity ordered, from most aircraft supply stores like Aircraft Spruce. You will also need a pair or two of Cleco pliers we found them both online & amazingly at Harbor Freight.

They really are a fascinating little device...I can't imagine changing out a panel without them! We also used them for holding down the aluminum while drilling out all the rivet holes...just drill into the aluminum into a sheet of plywood below and stick a cleco in it! Pretty cool ~



Shari
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:14 AM   #75
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What are Clecos?

Order a bunch of them! :-) I think I ordered about 150 of them from the yard store.

K Series Spring Cleco 5/32" (0-1/4") New

They are an absolute necessity if you plan on replacing a piece of sheet metal, fixing a door, putting on a drip cap, etc... here's some pics from 2 of my projects...
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:38 AM   #76
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Thanks a lot regarding the Clecos. My next post will come during the install of the floor. that wil be taking place this weekend. Thanks!! Andrew
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Old 09-06-2008, 03:05 PM   #77
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Welding, tank supports etc

Well, it has certainly been a long week for me. I finally feel like I am educated on my current task of installing he black water tank, sub-floors, replacing some of the U channels, etc.

I started the week by purchasing wood and elevator bolts with fanged washers as well as self tapping screws and lock bolts. I put two coats of polyurethane on both sides of the wood. I used oil based polyurethane I had from refinishing my hardwood floors and other misc. projects.

Upon receiving the tank with 1 inch lips around the top edges, I started to ponder how I could make the tank flush with the outriggers and cross members. I decided to weld the supporting cross members lower than the outriggers making the top of the tank, flush with what will soon be the bottom of the sub-floors. Actually, I bolted one of the cross members so that if necessary, I could remove the black tank from below by loosening the bolts. I also welded angle iron to the exterior side of the main frame 1/2 inch lower than what the black tank sits. I attached angle iron across the bottom of the tank in order to support what will be the pan with the black tank inside. I need to have the pan made and will do so this coming week. POR-15 was applied to all welded areas and new metal.

I also cut the peice of aluminum to go above where the entry way step. I recieved my new wheel wells and applied POR-15 to both the inside and outside. These wheel wells are so muc better than the ones I pulled out.

My next plans are to attach the wheel wells and aluminum above the step. I will then lay the sub-floor material onto the trailer and screw it down with self-tapping metal screws in order to hold it in place. I have both the front and the back U channels and had some new U channel made at a local metal shop. My plan would be to have the shell back on sometime over the next 3 days. Now that the welding is done and the tank is here, I only need to have a pan assembled and installed from below showing that I will be able to remove and repair the tank if necessary.

This is also posted as a blog.
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Old 09-07-2008, 05:53 AM   #78
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Looks great, man! I still need to get the tanks mounted in my little trailer. It looks like I'm going to have to move one of the center cross members about 2 inches. The thought of getting under there and cutting and welding under a finished floor is a bit scary!

JP
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Old 09-07-2008, 07:54 AM   #79
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Looks great, man! I still need to get the tanks mounted in my little trailer. It looks like I'm going to have to move one of the center cross members about 2 inches. The thought of getting under there and cutting and welding under a finished floor is a bit scary!

JP
Jordan-- any chance you could order another one custom-sized, and then use the one you already have on the GT?
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:52 PM   #80
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Jordan-- any chance you could order another one custom-sized, and then use the one you already have on the GT?
just might do that. The cost difference would certainly be worth the hassle, eh? I need to do some research online and see where I can get one made up.

Then I can use the extra 30 gallon tank as a black tank. I'll never have to empty it!

JP
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:31 PM   #81
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Shell back on

OK, what a week. Lot's of welding and refitting the pan and blackwater tank, and attaching the subfloors with elevator bolts and fanged washers and lock nuts.

Today was the day I have been waiting for for 3 weeks, or more likely since I bought it. I now had a treated frame, new sub-floors, new bolts, POR-15, new wheel wells, new pan for waste tank, new cross members, new U channel on the sides. Today we slowly dropped the shell with 3 ton floor jacks, and massaged it back into place. We had no shape for the subfloors, so we had to cut as we went. I still have some trimming to do tomorrow, but mostly it went well. I have about 30 more bolts to install in the floors and also around the U channels tomorrow.

I am going to begin taking all tags, lights, old rusted screws etc. off the trailer. I am going to take any clear coat off with Removeall and begin to compound with Nuvite. I am very interested in seeing how it turns out after I get it cleaned up. I then am going to take some of the other interior skins off and looks for leaks, rewire, and focus on cleaning the interior skins before insulating and reinstalling interior skins. I am going to also rewire the running lights, trailer harness. I ordered a axle this past week from Dexter and it should be here soon. I am lookin forward to the replacement of the axle. I plan on doing it myself and documenting everything.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:24 AM   #82
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Hey, I can't even see the POR 15 on your hands from here! : ) You must be proud to get that shell back on. Is that some special OSB, or did you seal it - it looks nice and shiney. Just FYI, the local bike shop remodeled and put oiled OSB down, it looks and feels nice underfeet when walking around the store.

Marc
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Old 09-13-2008, 06:56 AM   #83
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64Trotter ATL,
LOOKING GOOD!!! Are you going for some kind of speed record with the rehabilitation of this trailer???

I too am interested to know what you used to treat the subfloor. I can't wait to see the finished product. So far it looks like you will have a Vintage Airstream of which you can be really proud.

Keep up the good work and post updates often.
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:45 AM   #84
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Awesome Andrew, it's been less than a month and you flew through what takes most of us a year (to get the shell back on). Did I miss the part where you put the new belly pan back on?

Anyway, it looks great.
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