Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-23-2008, 10:47 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
1955 26' Cruiser Overlander
Yakima Valley , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,161
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
Lookin good Andrew, remember it will likely look worse before it gets better. Take lots of detailed pictures and label everything you can, even if it is only to only use as a template or to reference where stuff goes. We're just sorting panels on our 66, thank goodness he labeled stuff, and had a few pictures. Otherwise it becomes a huge puzzle.
__________________

__________________
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2008, 02:42 PM   #30
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Parts I need

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinstream View Post
Let me know if there are any part(s) that you may need!
I need a window part. It is the one that is on the side with the door. I have the crank piece and the bar that goes across, but I do not have the arm that extends out nor do I have the window. I have not looked closely yet at the others, but if you have one, let me know.

Secondly, I need the correct door handle with all the gear. The correct lock would be nice as well.

Third, I am looking for folding doors for between the bath and living area.

Let me know, Andrew
__________________

__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2008, 03:03 PM   #31
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Demolition Continued today

Wow, I succeeded in removing the toilet, tub/shower/sink, all plumbing, plastic covers for the wheel wells, and began to remove the sub-floors.

I am pleased with the progress that is taking place. I will need to vacuum out the belly pan and remove the fiberglass and finish cutting the wood and bolts from the frame.

I had some issues removing some of the rivets. The drill bit seems to slide off of the center of the river sometimes. I assume that with the rivets with one side rounded, that I will have to shave it off. I am sure a forum here will tell me what t do. Either way, some of the rivets that attached the toilet were a pain. I ordered a rivet removal tool on Friday and expect it to be here sometime soon. I will be ordering some Nuvite F7 compounding polish to start compounding the outside when weather allows this week.

My goal is that by the end of the week to have the belly pan, banana skins, and side molding off and to also have the wood off the frame, and finally the waste water tank removed. I hope to have the frame sand blasted and have the POR-15 on frame, bumper and tongue. I will more than likely put a larger tongue on the trailer.

Who knows what will come next, but I assume that the axle, shocks and wheels will follow and then the sub-floors. All in all, I am just having fun and looking forward to taking it out into the woods once the floor is done.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0094.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	578.5 KB
ID:	66160   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0083.JPG
Views:	86
Size:	723.3 KB
ID:	66161  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0104.JPG
Views:	97
Size:	720.0 KB
ID:	66162   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0106.JPG
Views:	90
Size:	793.0 KB
ID:	66163  

__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2008, 04:48 PM   #32
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,840
Wow. you're really moving. You will not be able to remove the perimeter sub floor untill you take the lower inner skins off to access the fasteners that go through the "C" channel. You might look at this thread
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f91/...irl-31084.html

Shari removed the floor and did not remove the belly pan. If you remove the belly pan and the subfloor the shell will droop onto the frame. You need to put spacer blocks between the outriggers and the shell the same thickness as the sub floor being removed, because the intregrety will be lost where the shell is attached to the subfloor and frame.
__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2008, 09:05 PM   #33
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Wow. you're really moving. You will not be able to remove the perimeter sub floor untill you take the lower inner skins off to access the fasteners that go through the "C" channel. You might look at this thread
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f91/...irl-31084.html

Shari removed the floor and did not remove the belly pan. If you remove the belly pan and the subfloor the shell will droop onto the frame. You need to put spacer blocks between the outriggers and the shell the same thickness as the sub floor being removed, because the intregrety will be lost where the shell is attached to the subfloor and frame.
Yeah, I left the wood between the frame and the C channel. I am going to really take my time this week in order to make absolute sure that the next steps are done properly.

I am waiting on the rivet remover tool in order to take the lower inside panels off. Then I will have a better view of the condition of the C channels. I will make sure to keep 3/4 ply between the outriggers and C channel during replacement. It is basically just going to be slow going until the frame is treated and floor replaced.

If there is a sequence of events that seem to be out of order on my part, please let me know. If you were me, what would you do?

Thanks in advance, Andrew
__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2008, 09:58 PM   #34
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Wow. you're really moving. You will not be able to remove the perimeter sub floor untill you take the lower inner skins off to access the fasteners that go through the "C" channel. You might look at this thread
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f91/...irl-31084.html

Shari removed the floor and did not remove the belly pan. If you remove the belly pan and the subfloor the shell will droop onto the frame. You need to put spacer blocks between the outriggers and the shell the same thickness as the sub floor being removed, because the intregrety will be lost where the shell is attached to the subfloor and frame.
I really enjoyed reading about the restoration of Birdie. I think I am going to leave the pan attached. I am hoping that it is not wrapped as was mentioned previously. I guess I will know only by getting involved.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Andrew
__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2008, 07:40 AM   #35
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,840
You are doing fine. The interior skin is installed with pop rivets and a rivet removal tool will not work on them very well. Just use a #30 drill bit and drill down the center where the stem pulled out. Drilling rivets works much better with a higher RPM drill.
__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2008, 09:06 PM   #36
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Where can I purchase #30 drill bits?
__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2008, 10:27 PM   #37
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,840
Any good machine shop or tool supply. The longest lasting are Cobalt 135 degree split tip. They do cost more.
__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 08:31 AM   #38
4 Rivet Member
 
vhord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
Images: 96
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
The interior skin is installed with pop rivets and a rivet removal tool will not work on them very well.
Kip,

IMHO - As much as I hate to, I have to disagree. When I removed my lower skins I did not have the removal tool. I had to be real careful to stay in the center of the pop rivet, especially on the ones that the PO had replace with steel rivets. When I removed the upper skins I had the removal tool and it helped keep the bit centered on the rivet and would push the cap off the bit when finished which sped up the process some. BTW - I used the smallest guide that came with my tool.
__________________
vhord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 10:24 AM   #39
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,840
Thats ok, I sometimes forget that somethings that I take for granted other people have trouble with.

Kip
__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 12:46 PM   #40
4 Rivet Member
 
vhord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
Images: 96
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Thats ok, I sometimes forget that somethings that I take for granted other people have trouble with.

Kip
And we always appreciate your patience and wonderful advice with us amateurs.
__________________
vhord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 02:20 PM   #41
3 Rivet Member
 
64TrotterAtl's Avatar
 
1964 19' Globetrotter
Decatur , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 100
Images: 15
Blog Entries: 14
Rivets, Stripper, and POR

Since I am so new to this all, I would like to share what I purchased today. The things that would be useful for rivet removal:

1. #30 drill bits
2. Automatic spring loaded hole punch (hard to find at auto parts stores)
3. Rivet removal tool.

I will more than likely try all of these tools. The hole punch coupled with regular #30 drill bits. As well as the rivet removal tool.

BTW, an airplane mechanic told me that #30 are basically the same at 5/16. Is this correct?

I will let everyone know how it goes, but I am really looking forward to trying all of them out. I should have them by the end of the week, just in time for the weekend.

I also purchased POR-15, metal ready, and sterling silver for the frame, tongue and back bumper. RemoveAll 220 for stripping the exterior, citristrip for the interior walls if I decide to strip them of the original zolotone. I might keep them painted and simply paint over them. Oh yeah, I also purchased the F-7 polish today with some polishing pads from Tom.
__________________
64TrotterAtl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 02:38 PM   #42
4 Rivet Member
 
vhord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
Images: 96
[quote=64TrotterAtl;608542]
BTW, an airplane mechanic told me that #30 are basically the same at 5/16. Is this correct?
quote]

Absolutely not! #30 bits are .1285" dia. which is slightly larger than the 1/8" pop rivets which would be .1250". Here is a chart which shows the sizes.
__________________

__________________
vhord is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'63 Airstream Tradewind Restoration begins!!! 1963tradewin 1959-69 Tradewind 109 09-19-2013 03:03 PM
1969 - And so it begins... badelson 1965-1969 Sovereign 21 11-16-2007 07:36 PM
And so it begins...... SwampBillies Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 54 09-16-2007 04:56 PM
And So It Begins! Ifihadtime Member Introductions 5 04-27-2007 10:47 PM
It begins again now..... Silvertwinkie Our Community 29 04-01-2005 01:58 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.