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Old 03-08-2010, 05:39 AM   #99
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Interior panels in (well, 3 out of 4, anyway). I used the brake to dress the edge of the bottom panel on all 4 sides. I think it makes it look a lot more finished, particularly as I plan on leafing it polished aluminum.
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:41 AM   #100
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I am amazed at how much more rigid the door feels now that everything is sealed up and riveted together. 48 years of bumping down the road had loosened things up significantly.

Next up, the door within a door. I went ahead and made the skin for it to get a jump start. Then I took the little kiddies for a tractor ride. Too nice not too!

JP
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:29 AM   #101
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I took my time with this one, and was so careful in copying the original, I actually copied some of the mistakes (slight misalignments, and angles)...

Then I tweaked it as best I could to get it as close to perfect as I could. Looks great!

First up, the obligatory "cleco pic", test-fitting the skin...
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:32 AM   #102
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On thing I've ALWAYS hated about Airstreams is how they use pop rivets on the door within a door. There's no reason you can't buck these, if you test fit things with clecos, then take it all apart, buck the inner hinge holes, and assemble it back together. The effect is well worth the effort. It IS the front door, after all.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:36 AM   #103
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Another thing i didn't like about the original door on the Globe Trotter was the complete lack of rivets across the top and bottom edges. Lack of rivets there allows the door to twist, and in my case, caused the door to catch and tear the skin (see previous posts).

Anyway, I wasn't about to build a flimsy door. :-) So when I made the interior panel, I made an additional brake at the top and bottom edges, so I could attach all 4 sides to the front skin.

While I was at it, I sealed everything really tight on the top and sides, but left a little gap at the bottom, in the unlikely event that water DOES get in the door, it will drain out.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:38 AM   #104
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finito! The door is 10X stronger than the original set-up. No twisting here! Ditto for the main door.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:54 AM   #105
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That is some tight work, JP. Your aluminum skillz are superior.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:24 AM   #106
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:42 AM   #107
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I wouldn't call them "skills"... I learn something new every time, and I'd probably never do it the same way twice!

Hobbies are all about experimentation, I guess.

JP
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:29 AM   #108
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Definitely makes a lot of sense to buck rivet those hinges on. That's going on my to do list.

-steve
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:35 PM   #109
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You see too many posts of these doors flying off NOT to!

JP
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:49 PM   #110
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Very very nice work! Glad to see how that comes apart, going to strip the interior zolatone on ours and rerivet since the door does have so much flex. Thanks for the great tutorial!
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:50 PM   #111
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You CAN'T beat a solid door on these old units. I think I'm going to rebuild the door on my '64 next. It seems only fair!

Speaking of the door, I found this on eBay, and riveted it to the inside top of the door. It came off a 50's Pullman coach. I think I'm going to leave the inside of the door satin so it pops like that. Very slick!

JP
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:50 AM   #112
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jp,
i read this post a while back when i had first purchased my 62 GT. almost 6 months later, i know the trailer inside and out, and re-read this thread. I can't believe how DIFFERENT it is from my ohio made GT. its like an an entirely different model! the windows are different, the storage bins, bath set up, etc. maybe some of that was mods from a PO on yours, i don't know.

at any rate, consider me your cheering section - and allow me to encourage you to GET BACK TO WORK on it! i want to see more pics

now on to read your other threads ...
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