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Old 11-07-2012, 06:48 PM   #1
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1965 22' Safari
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Heating Ducts

My Safari has a furnace connected to two heat ducts. One runs inside the lower sink cabinet forward to a vent near the door. The other runs under the floor rearward to near the closet in front of the bathroom. There appears to be a smaller tube going further back. I have been told it keeps the black tank warm. My question, does it also keep the water pipes in the trunk warm enough to keep them from freezing? I do not see any heat outlet in the trunk area. I recently camped in northern Montana, with nights below freezing. I was afraid to use the water tank and plumbing. Would a small heater in the trunk when connected to shore power, suffice say down to 20 degrees? Guess I would have to re-winterize before moving out if it works?
Just had an idea while writing this, tomorrow I turn the heat on and place a thermometer in the trunk area, supposed to be below freezing tonight, guess I will find out first hand. And yes it is winterized.

Thanks Stan
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:34 PM   #2
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Oddly enough, using the water will delay ice build-up from freezing. In fact some folks tell us that leaving the tap open enough to just drip can help to avoid freezing.

Also, you are right that the smaller pipes are designed to stop the tanks from freezing. I have no idea how effective that system is, though. I would not depend on it as a main strategy. If you are in a freezing area, the popular general idea is to "skirt" the trailers in some way to keep cold air out. Then, a mild heat, say that from a 100 watt light bulb, may be enough to avoid freezing.

But there are threads on how to winterize your trailer that you could gain lots of good information from. Use the search engine, they aren't hard to find...
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:58 PM   #3
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I don't feel the heat ducts going to the holding tank areas do much good. Since there is no way for the air to return to the cabin.
It is like holding your hand over the discharge of the duct. Which is what goes on in the tank area. When you block the end of the duct there is no heat entering the space because there is no or minimal air flow. The air in the duct will take the path of least resistance. As most things do.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:15 PM   #4
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1961 22' Safari
Union , Oregon
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I don't remember the size of yours, but my "trunk" area is small enough that I would feel comfortable with just a 60 watt bulb in there to prevent freezing at least down into the mid teens. The rest of my water is all in the living space, so all I have to do is keep that area above freezing. My black tank is also above the floor, so in the heated area. I have found that a 100 watt bulb in the living space keeps the interior of the trailer above freezing until outside temps get into the mid to low 20's.
Sam
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #5
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I agree with Samb. A light bulb in the trunk area will keep the water from freezing.

Dan
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:12 PM   #6
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I placed a remote thermometer sensor in the trunk, I then ran the furnace for two hours. There was no increase in temperature, so apparently the small rear duct only goes to the black tank and not into the trunk area. That or like was posted earlier, air like water goes to the area of least resistance so if that duct dead ends, then the heat just backs up into the trailer living space.
Guess I better stock up on some 60 and 100 watt light bulbs before they are all obsolete.
Sam, did you re-insulate your trailer during your rebuild? Mine gets quite warm up towards the ceiling, however stays much cooler at the floor level. Signs of poor insulation I believe.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:14 PM   #7
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I did not re-insulate my trailer during the rebuild. I use a small fan to circulate the air to help even out the air temperatures top to bottom when I am using the trailer.

I keep a 100 watt bulb going in my Safari almost all the time during the winter. Positioned low to the floor it provides air circulation and some heat. That, with some ventilation, keeps the trailer dry and fresh in my climate.
Sam
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