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66Overlander · 12-13-2008, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Joe, that's fastinating! After I posted, I figured out that "duh.. Scott's got a Safari, and I a TW... two different serial number runs?"... but that doesn't appear to be the case.

Yes, the tail lights are the same (or should be!!), and they will find a home next year on the Safari.

So is that # 30 and 34 for the year 63, correct? They were pretty close on the assembly line then.
Love this AS history stuff!
Marc

Each trailer length did have it's own serial # run. According to the info I have, most started at 101 in 1963, but the 24' Tradwind started at 102 for some reason (unless that was a typo in the article and it too should have been 101, in which case you have the 34th 1963 24' Tradwind built.)

And I made a mistake abut Scott's trailer. His is the 30th 1963 22' Airstream built in Ohio, but the 22' serial number sequence was common for all 22 footers, including both Safari's and Flying Clouds. Not sure how many Ohio built 1963 Safari's vs. Flying Clouds there were, but chances are that Scotts trailer is earlier than the 30th Safari made, because some of the first 30 were likely Flying Clouds.

But it is possible that 24' TW #33 or 34 (yours) and 22' #30 (Scott's) couid have been on the line at the same time if sales of 22' and 24' were roughly equal early in the year. And by early, it is most likely that your trailers were actually built in late 1962 as model changeover was usually around mid year.

ROBERT CROSS · 12-13-2008, 11:23 AM

Where did we fit in???

66Overlander · 12-13-2008, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Where did we fit in???

"223T334" breaks down as follows:
"22"= 22' Airstream
"3"=1963
"T"=Twin Bed Safari
"334" = Sequence number, 234th built (started with "101")

Yours is likely a very late 1963 Safari, maybe built just before the change over to 1964.

And this just made me realize that my above posts regarding Marc & Scott's trailers were somewhat wrong. I was quoting the information for California built trailers. Aaarrgggh!

For Ohio Built trailers, the totals built are not recorded, but the sequence numbers did start with "101" for Safari's and ""102" for Tradwinds and Flying Cluds had their own sequence numbers, so:

Marc's 1963 24' Tradwind is the 33rd or 34th built in Ohio.
Scott's 1963 22' Safari is the 30th built in Ohio (no Flying Clouds mixed in).
But in both cases the total numbers built are not known (but there were at least 234 Safari's).

goransons · 12-13-2008, 12:06 PM

Bob, your data plate, is that a reproduction, or repainted? If a reproduction, who stamped it for you?

ROBERT CROSS · 12-13-2008, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

Bob, your data plate, is that a reproduction, or repainted? If a reproduction, who stamped it for you?

It is an original.
I sure miss the old girl. We bought it from the original owner in 1988 and sold it in 2004 after getting the Classic. I've shed a tear every day since. If the pad was just a bit bigger we would have kept both for sure.

ts8501 · 12-13-2008, 01:37 PM

Joe:

What can you tell me about my 1964 California built Safari:

041 S 3176
6403 (this number appears under the serial number)

Here's a picture:

3Ms75Argosy · 12-13-2008, 04:14 PM

Scott - I was reading your blog again... re: the fan blades... is the rear bathroom heir vent you talk about the one with the 14"x14" vent? I may have an extra one... with the transformer.. but I have NO idea if it works or not.. I won't be connecting 120 volts to the trailer for a long time... I will be converting my vents to Fantastic Fans in the future as well.

Also, Out of Doors Mart may have what you need for the kitchen side vent as well.. I think I remember seeing some blades for sale on their website.
Marc

goransons · 12-13-2008, 04:21 PM

Great thanks Marc, yes the rear one is is the 14x14 ceiling vent. The transformer has the same specs as a doorbell transformer, same look too so will probably replace those, but would love the motor and blades. The kitchen motor mounts from the rear and might be the one they have on ODM, will have to measure. You guys get any snow over there this afternoon or just rain? got almost an inch here in less than an hour.

3Ms75Argosy · 12-13-2008, 04:43 PM

No snow... YET... but it's COLD out here..... I'm about to take the daughter to a SOCCER game.... BBBRRRRRBBRRR!

I'll pack a fan with the lights when they get sent.
Marc

66Overlander · 12-13-2008, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ts8501

Joe:

What can you tell me about my 1964 California built Safari:

041 S 3176
6403 (this number appears under the serial number)

Here's a picture:

I can't find an exact decoder at the moment, but it should be something like:
"O"= Standard Landyacht Trim
"4"=1964
"1"=Sofa (Double) Bed
"S"=??? (California?)
"3"=??? (22' or Safari?)
"176"=Sequence # (176th one built)

I don't know what "6403" is but can speculate that maybe it represents the year and month of manufacture:
"64"=1964
"03"=March

goransons · 12-20-2008, 06:48 PM

Stripping paint:

Before I pull plywood out, I was thinking I'd go ahead and strip the latex paint and zolatone off the end cap and upper panels that aren't being removed (all lower panels I'll strip in the garage before reinstalling). that way any mess I don't catch with paper down etc will come out with the old plywood. My only concern was whether the citristrip I like to use will in anyway harm the gel coat on the end cap (used as directed that is).

Now that I'm on break I hope to get the rear plywood out, but just thought it made sense to clean up a mess once instead.

goransons · 12-26-2008, 03:52 PM

Will go 4 more, but need to figure out a better means of storing the rear cabinets and goucho since I don't have any more covered storage available. The next 4 feet is really to repair some punky plywood where they had a battery and to patch the old refrigerator vent hole which is behind the wheel well and was relocated higher at some point.

Here's the survey of the damage:

The plywood is out. You can see the damage was mostly leaking around the shower wall (and the patch on the corner of the trailer that leaked as well and will have to be replaced). The other major area was right below the shower valve.

The leak under the showever valve was leaking directly over the crossmember, and no doubt had leaks from other areas heping out, but here is the damage to the rear crossmember (street side)

The only other major rust issue (other than surface rust EVERYWHERE) is this small repair needed on the 2nd from back crossmember, again on the street side. Fortunately the cancer doesn't appear to have spread too far. This will be an easy repair I think.

Here's some zoomed out photos of the rear area

Got to meet up in my hometown with Zep for a quick part exchange Christmas Day evening (with me sporting my new shirt from my wife). Great guy, and yes just in case anyone is wondering, his workmanship is absolutely amazing in person as well!

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-26-2008, 04:29 PM

Scott,
Our trailers are very similar being one year apart. I am seeing de javu with that rear floor. A large contributor to the rot is a leak created by the shape of the end caps. The segments actually curve the water right in and the remaining water is angled right at the top of the window frames. I found that those areas contributed to a great deal of water coming between the skins and causing the floor to rot. Often it is unseen unless it hits the top of the back or front window. Be sure to seal the seams well on the end caps and when weather permits dig out the putty between the frames and skin then inject vulkem back in. You are moving right along now. I think you might need to drop some belly soon to bolt it back together.

goransons · 12-26-2008, 04:35 PM

Yep! I will drop the belly pan down enough to bolt er all back together. For now the belly pan is keeping my tools from landing in the snow and keeping the neighborhood cats from calling it home for the winter.

utee94 · 12-26-2008, 06:26 PM

Yes, a complete deja vu, 63s looks very similar even when they are different models.

Your progress is great, especially considering the weather you're dealing with. Keep it up!

-Marcus

goransons · 12-28-2008, 06:08 PM

Ok, so change in plans. I removed the fiberglass wheelwell covers and moved everything out of the black 12 feet. Looking at things, structurally I don't think I'm going to remove the back 8 feet at the same time, rather just the back 4 feet then a foot or so of the next section to facilitate sliding in the rear most sheet. I think I will fix the frame first, get it painted and install the rear 4 feet. This way the back of the shell is supported while I do the next 8 feet, which takes me to mid-entry door.

I'm going to locate an intelipower 4560 under the street side goucho, with a battery in that compartment. Currently that is where the battery was residing, but originally it was under the kitchen sink. I think whoever moved it had the right idea, that space way in the back of the goucho (which has an outside hatch too) is much better suited for a battery than prime storage area in the kitchen. I plan to run non-metalic watertight conduit under the floor to lengthen these original circuit feeds (and to actually provide the trailer a true circuit panel instead of just a master circuit breaker).

HERE IS WHERE I NEED HELP

What is the best way during a shell on restoration of carefully lifting the shell to slide the plywood back under (since the shell has settled down onto the outriggers). Since there will be a seam down the middle of the trailer, I can easily add a temporary ledger along the rear wall to lift up for the back panel without the jack getting in the way of the panel I'm installing, but the kitchen (street side) wall, approx midcabin has settled on the outrigger to the point it has actually bent the c channel. I figure the body will need to come up an inch in this area which also goes around the wheel well (which has deformed from this settling as well).

I figured someone here has developed a system to carefully lift these areas, so I thought I'd pick brains on it.

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-28-2008, 06:44 PM

drill a large anchor in the driveway under the bumper. Install an eyebolt. Use a come along to pull the frame down. Slide the full sheet in. Just make sure you level the entire frame again before you bolt it all down.

goransons · 12-28-2008, 07:07 PM

Thanks 62, yes I know this way for the rear section (though I wouldn't get away with drilling holes in our driveway), but I'm more concerned that the biggest sag is at the kichen area, just in front of the street side wheel well. That is where I need to lift the body.

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-28-2008, 07:29 PM

lots of screw type jack stands. A big industrial welding shop might rent some to you so you can crank the frame up. It is amazing how much flex the frame has when it is out and on it's own. Your trailer saw a lot of miles and I am sure it must have been hard on the frame.

goransons · 12-28-2008, 07:41 PM

its actually the body that has sagged, I can put a 4' level on the frame and it is true as I could ever hope for. Here's a few photos of what I have. The mess of wires is from the original battery location, will be located once those skins are removed. You can see by the hole in the floor, and the buckling of the wheel well that the body has sagged here. The outrigger just in front of the wheel well is very true to the rest of the frame, in fact was sticking up through the rotted floor. Fortunately this outrigger is in great shape.

Thanks for your help!