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Old 12-02-2008, 06:53 AM   #43
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Bargman 99???

I have been told that my '64 California built Safari has Bargman 99's. Here's the picture of what is currently on the unit. I do not know if these are original. Are these 99's?
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:59 AM   #44
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Wait!! I went back to the original picture, blew it up, and in fact they are Autolamp 575's!!! Boy am I glad you found this InsideOut! You have just found another owner that will need new lenses. I'll place my order with yours when VTS is ready to reproduce them. I sure hope my can hold out. I am in the process of finding the right LED replacement under the original lenses. Back to square one, but so glad InsideOut caught this!!!

-Tim
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:04 AM   #45
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I have been told that my '64 California built Safari has Bargman 99's. Here's the picture of what is currently on the unit. I do not know if these are original. Are these 99's?
Nope, your lamps are the early style (1961) low profile wedding cake Auto Lamp 575. You can read the embossed printing on the lens to confirm this.

But even without reading the embossed printing, you can tell it is an Auto Lamp 575 because of the 4 screw holes used to attach the lens to the base. The 575 actually has 8 holes as you can see, including the 4 additional "thru" holes in the lens for clearance to rivet it to the lamp base to the body with the lens attached. Unfortunately those extra 4 holes can allow water to enter the lamp - probably not the best design for durability, but great for ease of manufacture. Definitely want to make sure one of the "thru" holes is at the bottom when installing these babies to keep the lamp from retaining water!

Edit: You posted your response while I was typing mine. Good catch!
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:10 AM   #46
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As an aside, I have heard of people making their own lamp bases for one or the other wedding cake style tail lamps using paint can lids and new bulb sockets from an auto parts store. I guess you have to check the diameter to see which of the wedding cake style lenses this might work for.

Just thought you'd want to know if your bases are too far gone to be restored.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:45 AM   #47
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On my way out the door I took a measuring tape and checked the ghost lines on the body. If the assumption is that the ring itself is where the lense rubbed the body then they were 6 7/8, if you assume the ring is where sealant or grime collected around it (there is some evidence of silicone residue) then they would have set inside that ring at 6 1/2. Either would be far superior to what is there now, which is an approximately 5" recessed rubber grommet style truck light. Good to know there are that many different options out there. Not for sure which ones Marc is removing but in either case with new sockets it should look great.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:06 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by 66Overlander View Post
As an aside, I have heard of people making their own lamp bases for one or the other wedding cake style tail lamps using paint can lids and new bulb sockets from an auto parts store. I guess you have to check the diameter to see which of the wedding cake style lenses this might work for.

Just thought you'd want to know if your bases are too far gone to be restored.
The Bargman 99's are the lenses that match up with the paint can lids...which IMO would be the easiest to reproduce if it really doesn't matter which ones are 100% accurate. They can be built from the lids & parts and the lenses can be purchased, I believe the VTS website confirms that ~

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Old 12-02-2008, 08:09 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by ts8501 View Post
Wait!! I went back to the original picture, blew it up, and in fact they are Autolamp 575's!!! Boy am I glad you found this InsideOut! You have just found another owner that will need new lenses. I'll place my order with yours when VTS is ready to reproduce them. I sure hope my can hold out. I am in the process of finding the right LED replacement under the original lenses. Back to square one, but so glad InsideOut caught this!!!

-Tim
Awe shucks ~ thanks!

Let's keep our fingers crossed that there are more of "us" out there!

Shari
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:57 AM   #50
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I just also heard back from Cecil, the gentleman that owned the trailer a couple people ago (he sold it to the guy that ebayed it). He has the original antenna for the TV and we'll be working with him to get it sent out to us. Joe are you nearby him?
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:43 AM   #51
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Scott,

Can your machinist make the three pieces which make up this hinge on my 1954 Liner?

By the way, they are mirror image of each other.

Bill

bill, he emailed me back and said yes he could definately make it. I asked for a very ball park estimate on cost (he'll need the physical hinges to copy to get an exact price) and hope to hear back soon.
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:10 AM   #52
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bill, he emailed me back and said yes he could definately make it. I asked for a very ball park estimate on cost (he'll need the physical hinges to copy to get an exact price) and hope to hear back soon.
Thanks for the update. Please ask about timing also.

Bill
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:34 AM   #53
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Wow, who'd thought that lights could be so complicated! Well, I'm pretty sure mine are the correct ones... My trailer is an Ohio trailer. Also for kicks, I'm curious how close in serial number our two trailers are. I never really took note of the serial number. I'll take pics hopefully Friday when I go visit the trailer.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:59 PM   #54
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Thumbs up I wanna help a tiny bit too...

Although we were the second owners I believe these are the original lights.
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Old 12-02-2008, 04:47 PM   #55
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Wow Leo! You lucky dawg!!!! I musta dozed off on that search lately...oh well! Hope they are put to good use, if not - you know who would love to take them off your hands!

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Old 12-02-2008, 07:18 PM   #56
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floor questions

First order will be bulb seal, glazing materials etc to replace the broken glass, keep the jelousie glass from falling out with the little disks, and get that hinge on, then we're airstream play money'd out for awhile, but am starting to really figure out how far we need to go.

The question follows the background info, please stay with me.

I went around the trailer with an ice pick and only got it to stick in two areas, where Inland Andy mentioned would have been the original battery location under the kitchen sink area (next to the furnace) and under the black tank and tub in the back two feet of the trailer.

This area (picture #1) was stuffed full of cellulose insulation, brick solid. Cleaned that up, and believe it or not, after cleaning that all out and looking in there, very little surface rust on the cross members (I imagined it would be gone totally). The black edges of the tile isn't wet or water marks, its the original tile glue (which yes it and the tile are almost certainly loaded with Absestos.

The rear area I didn't photo, but its the typical rot around the body mounting area and around the drain of the tub & toilet.

Photo #2 shows a weak point in the floor, inside you can see the heat register pipe, visable also is the kitchen sink drain pipe, but also there are many holes in the belly pan, about pencil diameter and in a pattern. I assume this was the original fresh air intake for the propane refrigerator since this was the stock location (elivated on the wheel well). The bottom of the two exterior doors (see photo 3)behind the refrigerator (I assume for lighting and or basic install access) has been "retrofitted" at some point with an aluminum louver over the door skin and cut through (with not a lot of care on the cutting). I can't imagine with as small as this little floor intake area, and its location behind the tire that it would provide enough air, but perhaps it does fine. Haven't decided if we'll leave the louvers or remake that small access door. The extra air intake might good for the new refrigerator (original was long gone but will be replaced with like sized unit)

The weak point in the floor, is some flex as you step towards that opening, since the end of the panel (towards the hole) isn't reinforced underneith. Holds a screw really well, can't get an ice pick to stick, isn't noticably swolen but flexes some (perhaps I really needs a cross brace inside).

Here is the question:

Is there any real reason to replace all plywood if the majority of the trailer is very sound?


ok, and before you answer, keep in mind we're going to take our time on this restoration, but don't have unlimited resources, or space for that matter. Of course we'll pull plywood in the rear area as far foward as it takes to do the job right to repair that damage (including some frame damage). The area around the kitchen, roughly the same size as the kichen cabinet can easily be cut back to frame members and reinstalled in that area. We will pull lower sheet metal in those areas to correctly bolt etc.

I realize too that not everyone will agree here, and I'm not offended by that, (so please don't be either), I just want to hear opinions we can weigh the pros and cons, including things we haven't thought about.
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