'63 Safari - It 'Bee' Traded (#8671)

[Blue Pearl]

Scott & Megan, I have been following your restoration and give you lots of Karma for restoring history, It does make you think that you have dirt from around the world in your trailer and what stories it could tell.
I'm glad to hear you are considering joining the wbcci Oregon Unit. We are active members and enjoy the group and many of us have vintage units and we would love to have 8671 and of course you guys too . We joined because our vintaged trailer had the numbers and I wanted to keep that part of the history. Let me tell you my story, We had just got our trailer and it was at the R.V. shop getting some things done. My husband is out on a call with is boss when a Airstream goes by with our number 8208. OUR AIRSTREAM HAS BEEN STOLEN!! No, someone else had our number. I drove to the R.V. shop and our trailer is still there. They are in the Oregon unit so we had to take 8209, still wish we could have the orginal numbers. Ask me any questions you want about our unit.

[goransons]

Started getting the clearance lights on. Definately need to do more polishing and just temporary screws, they will be replaced with stainless. Intense polishing won't happen until interior is done, but trying to get it cleaned up a lot anyway. Front corner panel pictured will likely get replaced, 2 large dents and 2 deep scrapes, neither appear to be of the caravan vintage.

Thanks again Marc and Mike for the lights!

[Blue Pearl]

Scott & Megan, I just talked to our membership chairman and since this is Oregon Unit's 50th year we have been taking in new members at 1/2 membership for the first year. So it is 1/2 national dues and 1/2 oregon dues(12.50) It a good deal. I will tell Dusty to put a hold on your Numbers for as long as he can. I'm not trying to pressure you to join, it's just that I don't want you to lose your numbers since your trailer is such a part of the history of the Wbcci. Enough of my rah rah for Oregon unit, but you will be welcomed and anyone else that would like to join our camping club.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Teresa - really? I'd love to join the OR unit too... we had a great time a couple of years ago (where we met Gary and Janet, and Steph Roberts too!). Can you p.m. membership info?

Scott... gee.. if those lights looked that good when I had them.. I might have kept them! Kidding of course!! Great job on those lights!
Marc

[goransons]

Well 4 out of the 5 days I've had off have either rained or snowed, so I haven't had much exterior time, which was one of my main goals, to get the lights on, all window frames cleaned and resealed to the skin etc.

Yesterday I broke down and did a massive cleaning of my small garage, so that I could clear a corner to stack interior parts. Until today, the front 8 feet of the trailer has been carefully stacked like a losing game of tetris to midway up the windows with dividing walls, cabinet parts, drawers, trim pieces and the like. Now its completely open down to the goucho frames, all 3 still in the trailer since there is just no dry place otherwise to store them.

Since the rain was still coming down, I removed the makeshift shelf up front over the cabinet, which had been added before the latex paint was added, but definately not original (it was a piece of aluminum siding, complete with fake wood grain pressed in). Also removed the surface mounted conduit that ran from the street side sconce to the bulkhead up front. This was someone's way of getting 12 volt to the bulkhead for the CB, but sense I'll have the lower front panels off for floor replacement I will run a dedicated 12 volt line in wall up to the bulkhead instead.

As Marc noted on his 63, instead of color coded wiring, at least the week our two trailers were built, all the stop, running, and turn signal lights are all 16 guage red wire. All my romex looks very good, and is all copper so I don't see need to pull things all the way down to replace it. I do however wish to ground all my outlets and light switches for safety (especially when the bulk of the outlets are by faucets). I ran a green 12 guage wire to each outlet and switch box for the rear 12 feet of the trailer (rest to happen once those panels come off.) This way I can correctly ground each one and provide GFCI protection to the trailer as well. I know it isn't original but its safer.

NOW the frustration...

I know the fate of this trailer was set a different direction, and if I'd have been the owner in the same position I honestly can't say I'd have done it any different. When it was said to be taken apart "with loving care" I thought it would be a matter of simply reassembly, but I'm finding all sorts of things broken/destroyed from being taken apart. I know it could have been much much much worse, but the frustration is there. Today I thought I'd repair the fiberglass refrigerator scoop and prepare that for reinstallation, since it will be zolatoned with the rest of the interior, just to discover that the highly flexible chrome moulding had been broken and over half of it was missing. This scoop is fiberglass, almost 1/4 thick, and has no fange, instead attaches to metal strips. There are 90 degree angle sheet metal strips (from the inside) that hold it to the wall, then this trim is supposed to dress that up and cover any gaps (see photo #3). It's really easy to shape, easy enough for a roughly 1" radius bend without kinking or overly distorting its shape. I imagine this isn't available, but does anyone have any good suggestions? I have some similiar trim from Outwater Plastics from our 69's restoration, and even after trying heat I couldn't get it to take that type of bend.


Second, see my black tank? Instead of either leaving the toilet on it, or cutting the bolts, holes were drilled through this 1/2 thick fiberglass tank and the flange was busted out . The front face of the tank was also broken off to attempt to get to bolts etc. All can be repaired but I'm struggling with the structure, since this tank sits above the floor and holds the toilet and person by itself. I'm thinking of building a "bridge" to assemble inside the tank, (stainless steel sheet), strong enough to back the fiberglass repair and by itself be suffient then fill the gap with resin and fiberglass a new toilet flange thread into the top of the tank. Also front of the tank can be rebuilt with fiberglass. I did check, and a tank that can work is available, but isn't designed to be visable, would need to be wrapped with wood and is very expensive. My father in law can get the shop at work to build the stainless support out of scrap, and the hole on the bottom where they drilled out and broke the drain valve out is just as big, so at least I can get inside easy to bolt it all together.

Pictures:

#1 Front end cleaned up, yes last 2 sheets of plywood will be coming out soon.

#2 No more shelf and conduit (see above bulkhead and left sconce)

#3 Trim for around refrigerator scoop I need to replace

#4 Black tank repair issue

Trim I need to replicate, including ability to go around tight bends (1" radius or so)

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by goransons

...Today I thought I'd repair the fiberglass refrigerator scoop and prepare that for reinstallation, since it will be zolatoned with the rest of the interior, just to discover that the highly flexible chrome moulding had been broken and over half of it was missing. This scoop is fiberglass, almost 1/4 thick, and has no fange, instead attaches to metal strips. ...I imagine this isn't available, but does anyone have any good suggestions? I have some similiar trim from Outwater Plastics from our 69's restoration, and even after trying heat I couldn't get it to take that type of bend.
...

Scott, I'm going to fabricate a new scoop for my Sovereign out of 0.025 aluminum and some "L" extusion, using the shrinking tool to good advantage. Photos in about a week, I'd say. I'm just fitting the new aluminum partitions this week. Instead of making it curved, I'm just going to make a sorta "Z" shape with two bends which will have 120 degree included angles. I'll just bend it up using clamps and a pair of 2x4s. I might even get fancy and put the angle on the inside 2x4.

Zep

[3Ms75Argosy]

Scott.. where does your toilet live? Mine is streetside, facing the center of the trailer, in the rear streetside corner. I haven't taken a good look.. and there's a chance it too is all broken out BUT!!! If it is intact, you are more than welcome to it. I won't have a chance to photograph it for about two weeks, if you can hold on.

For the scoop, is the trim at the top? I don't recall mine having anything like it on mine... I'll have to look closer. Would some sort of plastic quarter-round work to seal around the scoop?

While not orginal.. I know scoops have been made out of aluminum. Chris Johnson (CJohnson) had a metal scoop made by an HVAC company... it attached by using a strip of metal cut into triangles to fit against the wall... and that riveted to the scoop. I'll have to search his photos and see if I can post one.
Marc

[goransons]

Marc, no toilet at all, but the tank sits in the streetside corner like this one:

http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...lides/04_1.jpg

Are you scrapping your toilet or keeping it? I think you mentioned awhile back it was bad, but couldn't remember if that was you or not so thought I'd ask again. The scoop is in great overall condition. I don't think anything plastic will go that tight, since it sits pretty much like a cove moulding. Here's another photo. Another thought of what I may do as a last ditched effort is use an autobody seam sealer (instead of silicone) and seal it before shooting the zolatone. As long as it is cured well, it is supposed to take paint easily.

Here's another photo of the trim, hard to get a good picture.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Oh... so the scoop is ok. Here's the pic of the scoop I was talking about...
http://www.airforums.com/photos/brow...r=7276&page=12

About that toilet... if I had one, I'd give you it! I actually was talking about the blacktank and fiberglass cover. The opening is actually puttied over.. I'm not sure how deep that putty goes.. but like I said.. you are more than welcome to it.

Scratch that (just looked at the post).. my blacktank is more on the streetside than yours.. so probably wouldn't work. Sorry.

I don't know the source, but you might aske Uwe if he has a source for something simular to the chrome molding for the scoop... "www.area63productions.com" He might have a source for wheel molding that would work there.
Marc

[66Overlander]

Scott,
Wish I was closer so I could help more. Do the best you can with the fridge scoop and black tank and then don't worry about it. You are doing a great thing saving that trailer. As for the metal trim, I can't make it out very good in the photo, but Vintage Trailer Supply carries a variety of metal extrusions. Have you checked to wee if they have what you are looking for (or at least something close?).

Hey you might check with the owner of this one to see if he has some parts you can use rather than them going to the scrap yard:
Airstream - 1962 globetrotter

[goransons]

Thanks for the leads, did email VTS this morning to see what their thoughts about tight radius bends in that material (The half inch stuff), also email Uwe and the craigslist ad. Hopefully one will work out.

[overlander64]

Greetings Scott!

In looking at that molding that you are trying to locate, the profile looks very similar to something I purchased from "Trim-Line" an automotive specialty shop that installs all of those little high-priced extras on new cars. They had several different width that were typically used as door edge protector moldings, fender extension trim moldings, and wheel opening moldings. I don't remember whether it is polished aluminum or stainless, but it was quite flexible -- it was used to replace the no-longer available trim around the fender extensions on my Eldorado.

It might be worth a try if you have one of the custom accessory shops near your home -- we have been able to source unusual trim moldings for several projects through one of our local Trim-Line jobbers.

Good luck with your search!

Kevin

[goransons]

Thanks Kevin, I'll check around town tomorrow and see what I can find that is close, that may work. Here is one more photo that at least shows the profile a bit better. Wish my camera was better, but it just doesn't like close ups.

Zep, can't wait to see your craftsmanship!! Your work is amazing, I couldn't do that on my best day in the world!

[Aerowood]

If you bring the trailer down to Colorado it would be a cinch to make with a shrinker and stretcher.

Kip

[utee94]

Scott,

Your fridge scoop vent must be different from mine. Mine is identical to the one that Marc linked (the fiberglass version, not the aluminum one, although I love the look of that aluminum one!). Mine has a flange running all the way up each side, and that flange is riveted to the interior aluminum skin. So I'm having a hard time visualizing where this chrome trim piece goes, and how it is used. Do you know of any pictures of a known "good" one, maybe on RJ's site, that might help us (me) come up with a good solution?

Too bad about your black tank. I thought I was in bad shape with the 4 holes drilled in it all the way around the brass casting for the dump valve, but now I feel lucky that's all I have to do!

It's pretty cool though seeing all of these 63s being renovated at the same time. Between yours, Marc's, and mine, there are a lot of commonalities (your VAT tiles look exactly like mine, same color and everything), but it's also interesting to see the differences in the different models.

Anyway, good luck, and if you find a "good" picture of that fridge vent scoop be sure to post it, I'd love to help you find a solution if I can.

-Marcus

[flyfshr]

For fender edging, I used a mirror edging aluminum extrusion from Brunner Enterprises. Link. They have all sorts of stuff. Also another source is Outwater Plastics (outwater.com). Although the name says plastics, they have all sorts of extruded aluminum as well.

Brad
FF

[goransons]

I was digging this morning trying to find a photo of a trailer with the same type of scoop, then it hit me, that when we were working on the deal Joe sent us all the photos he had from his initial look at the trailer around ebay time. Here's one that shows it (of course it shows the hack job to put in a smaller refer also). If you zoom in you should be able to see how it attaches. I think it is a much cleaner look, and other than being hacked up when removed it appears to have held up much better than those with an integral flange. 3 simple L strips (will photo later today) hold it to the wall, they mount inside the scoop to the wall the rivets from the scoop into the L strip. No cracks in it, one chunk out from being removed which will repair easy enough.

Thanks Aerowood for the offer, and ultimately we may take you up on that, but she's not going to be road worthy (at least that distance) for awhile. Once the floor and interior is done, we still have to save up for axles, tires and the like.

I will be taking my sample around today and tomorrow on my runs for other parts and see if the auto and specialty shops have anything close. Heard back first thing this morning from VTS that theirs would not make that type of bend, too stiff.

Photo by Joe in 2007 I believe:

[goransons]

The weather was so nice I put off my seeking of the trim for today, instead I focused on a couple major projects that took way more time that I thought they would, and aren't really exciting to photograph.

1. Wally (yeah he has airstreams but didn't invent them) came over and helped me for an hour or so bolt the rear of the trailer down. Bolts that went through the J channel and frame had a 6" long, 1.5" wide, 1/4 inch thick Aluminum plate set, then a washer hoping to help spread the load onto a wider surface.

Replaced the 1.5" strap that runs under the rear wall with 1.5" angle iron to provide some more support of the rear end. Jacked things up to level and bolted them tight and the back is absolutely solid. Inside, finished the permimeter screws also. Rear belt rail was straightened (it was hammered by the frame) and reinstalled, and sealed VERY well.

2. Electrical - I finished running the dedicated ground, and also ran the new circuit for the refrigerator and potential 110 side of a water heater.

3. Stripping - don't worry, you can uncover your eyes, it wasn't me, but the back lower panels had two coats of citrastrip and are ready for clean up with scotch pads, then insulation, then can reinstall the rear lower panels.

Strange size pipe in the kitchen, the best I can figure it is 7/8 OD ABS for the vent. It too was a victim of a quick gut, and the elbow intended to come through the skin is missing. 3/4" fittings are too small, 1" fittings are too big. Anyone come across this size pipe before in plastic? need to add about1" or so to it and then a 90. Worst case I epoxy on a 1" coupler and 90 since it will be only air up to this point, but rather do it with the correct size.

[goransons]

ARGGHHHH Things just snow balled a bit. As I mentioned there was a good sized dent on the roof right where the rear end cap meets the rear bow. I would guess a tree branch or something of the sort. I thought I could address this without removing the ceiling and end cap (I know from experience that is a slippery slope). This dent can't be seen from the ground, but is almost a half inch deep.

I was in the process of running the wire for the future roof top air and discovered the dent has crunched the top of the bow, which to get to may have to drop the end cap, if not at least a good chunk of the ceiling. NOT something I want to do.

I'm not at all concerned about a little rippling on the roof, but I don't want a place for water to pool up. Attached is a picture of the dent, you can probably guess where the rib is crunched. I feel confident I can pop out the end cap stuff from outside with a suction cup (someone had tried that from the circle rings showing) once the rib is straightened. Amazingly there is no visable damage from the ground level or in the interior of the trailer.

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by goransons

...I'm not at all concerned about a little rippling on the roof, but I don't want a place for water to pool up. Attached is a picture of the dent, you can probably guess where the rib is crunched. I feel confident I can pop out the end cap stuff from outside with a suction cup (someone had tried that from the circle rings showing) once the rib is straightened. ...

Scott, from the photo it looks like the rib crunch is further away from the center than you can get to by removing the ceiling skin. I doubt you can straighten the rib, even if you had clear access to it from inside. I say that because my Safari had a dent about the same depth, but fortunately the rib, instead of bending, sort of twisted. So I could hit it from the side to "untwist" it and it pretty was restored to the right curve and in the right place. If you're lucky, that's what you will find--the web of the rib sort of leaned over a little.

Otherwise, I think you have to cut out a section and sister in some curved "L" extrusion.

Zep