'63 Safari - It 'Bee' Traded (#8671)

[Zeppelinium]

Scott, why do you need one in the back? Are you afraid of being overtaken by a large bird.....?

Zep

Originally Posted by goransons

I think this is the beast I need 2 of, or at least how to make 2 of. I think this was a photo by a forums member, but might have been one I found somewhere else, I can't honestly remember.

Bolts on, simliar pattern, simliar color/texture to photos

[ROBERT CROSS]

These lamps are the originals on our first stream>>>

[goransons]

Joe, I can't figure why they had them on the back either, but wanted to keep it as close to what it would have been, at least eventually get these types of details worked out. I mean I'm known for backing in rather quickly, but not quick enough for a rear rock guard..

Robert, very soon we'll have 8671 looking like that too thanks to Marc!

[utee94]

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

Scott, why do you need one in the back? Are you afraid of being overtaken by a large bird.....?

Zep

I think this is the funniest thing I have read on the Forums in a couple of months!



Anyway, the original owners clearly had a rear rock guard whilst participating in the Caravan (and they probably needed it), so I understand why Scott would like to return the trailer to that state.


And my offer still stands, my ugly green corrugated fiberglass panel is yours if you want it!

-Marcus

[goransons]

Is the fiberglass gorrugated even into the frame or does it flatten out as it reaches the frame? If it flattens out definately would use it, even if that meant figuring out a way to paint it. Can't quite tell from the photo, my eyes aren't that good.

Originally Posted by utee94

Yup, that's the standard "murky fiberglass" rock guard that many Airstreams had in the 50s and 60s.

Mine has an ugly green corrugated fiberglass rock guard on the front. I am going to remove the fiberglass, clean up the frame, replace the hinge (it is not aluminum or stainless and is therefore heavily rusted), and install tinted plexiglass in place of the ugly green thing.

You're welcome to my ugly green fiberglass if you like, but I don't think the color matches, and you'd need to fabricate a frame for it.

Here's a small, bad picture of it:




-Marcus

[utee94]

Good question Scott. I'll have to take a closer look at it, I've never really bothered to do so since I knew I was going to yank it and replace it with plexi. I'll take some up-close pictures this weekend and send them to you.

Here is a slightly more detailed picture from my blog:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2UhGawxa4u...icture+055.jpg

[goransons]

I haven't even been in the trailer for 4 days due to my work schedule this week, but did receive a package from Rob today that included the original warranty card from the inside wardrobe. I hope to get some work done tomorrow, today's a wash though.

[goransons]

Spent some time today extending the furnace vent that feeds the bathroom. By extending it towards the front of the trailer 8" it allows for our NT30 furnace to feed directly into the floor instead of needing external duct work and then a round to rectangle adaptor. This should save a considerable amount of under sink cabinet space.

The second modification, is due to this 110/12v system there was no univolt originally, and no central fuse panel, but rather one circuit breaker where the battery was originally located (again under the kitchen sink). In the early 60's judging by the type of univolt (With glass household fuses) the main 12v power and battery was moved from under the sink on the street side to under the goucho on the curb side, next to the 110 main breakers and power cord storage.

I will be keeping the seperate 12v/transformer setup that was stock, more for look than anything, but inside this curb side door I'm going to replace the original breaker box with the progressive dynamics 4560. I know it isn't in keeping with an exact restoration, but we think the technical upgrade of these type of mechanicals, especially when done very discretely will provide a safer and more comfortable trailer in the long run. The removal of the battery and furnace vent will nearly double the usable space in the kitchen cabinet.

While the lower walls are down I will also be adding a seperate 110 circuit for the refrigerator power, as well as one for a future roof top AC unit, and another for the water heater. On the 12v side circuits for the water heater iginition and refrigerator will be added.

With the vent duct done, I can now get the next segment of plywood down and start bolting together. Once bolted I can then move the interior parts to the rear of the trailer and start the front two. I hope to get the plywood in and start elevator bolts Tuesday.

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by goransons

...
While the lower walls are down I will also be adding a seperate 110 circuit for the refrigerator power, as well as one for a future roof top AC unit, and another for the water heater. On the 12v side circuits for the water heater iginition and refrigerator will be added. ...

The fridge takes 75-110 Watts, so you don't need an extra circuit for it. You could even tie the microwave into that line and another outlet.

Zep

[goransons]

Thanks Zep, yeah I figured that we didn't need to isolate it necessarily, and will probably have that and an in cabinet outlet for a microwave or something. The 4560 has 8 breaker slots, minus the main, and each of those could be done in half breakers if needed so it wasn't too big a deal, and minimal wire to seperate things out a bit. Thank you though for the power usage info, I would have guessed much higher.

[utee94]

Originally Posted by goransons

Spent some time today extending the furnace vent that feeds the bathroom. By extending it towards the front of the trailer 8" it allows for our NT30 furnace to feed directly into the floor instead of needing external duct work and then a round to rectangle adaptor. This should save a considerable amount of under sink cabinet space.

The second modification, is due to this 110/12v system there was no univolt originally, and no central fuse panel, but rather one circuit breaker where the battery was originally located (again under the kitchen sink). In the early 60's judging by the type of univolt (With glass household fuses) the main 12v power and battery was moved from under the sink on the street side to under the goucho on the curb side, next to the 110 main breakers and power cord storage.

I will be keeping the seperate 12v/transformer setup that was stock, more for look than anything, but inside this curb side door I'm going to replace the original breaker box with the progressive dynamics 4560. I know it isn't in keeping with an exact restoration, but we think the technical upgrade of these type of mechanicals, especially when done very discretely will provide a safer and more comfortable trailer in the long run. The removal of the battery and furnace vent will nearly double the usable space in the kitchen cabinet.

While the lower walls are down I will also be adding a seperate 110 circuit for the refrigerator power, as well as one for a future roof top AC unit, and another for the water heater. On the 12v side circuits for the water heater iginition and refrigerator will be added.

With the vent duct done, I can now get the next segment of plywood down and start bolting together. Once bolted I can then move the interior parts to the rear of the trailer and start the front two. I hope to get the plywood in and start elevator bolts Tuesday.

See, you're getting SOME work done.

If you plan to add roof A/C at some point, are you going to run a drain line down through the skins? And if you only have the lower skins out, I'm interested how you would approach that?

As I recall, you and I exchanged some PMs on this subject when I was doing my rooftop AC. I did not have a chance to add a drain line when I installed the A/C last /August, but when I'm redoing the front half of my trailer NEXT winter, I hope to be able to add this in. Right now the condensation runs down the side of the trailer, and there is no way a polish job will be able to stand up to that over time!

Keep it up!

-Marcus

[goransons]

Power will go straight up the curb side wall. There is a small (about 6" wide) piece of middle skin (window height) that can be removed between the window and end cap that will get power up to the roof locker level. Then I will be feeding it over to the AC location by no doubt removing a few rivets and working around the vent area. I've scoped it out and there are empty grommets in that area so between a drill and an electricians tape I won't pull down the ceiling, at least all the way. I don't want to pull it all the way down because I don't want to snow ball the project further.

The condensate line will run down the street side, down inside the wall behind the refrigerator, simply because there is virtually no wiring in that area and no windows to limit straight up and down runs.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

hold on. I thought you were going faithful original.

[goransons]

Well as much as possible we are. But when it comes to some systems we will upgrade to more modern technology, but do so very discretely. The only acception to this is the Air Conditioning. I know some may shreak in horror, but in our area we average temps at or above 100 degrees most of the months we vacation, and since we didn't purchase this as a "flip" we plan on using it a long time. If 10 or 20 years down the road another owner wanted to remove a roof top AC, it could be done rather easily and the evidence would be minimal.

When you walk into the restored 8671 our goal is that you'll see a period looking trailer with updates of appliances etc as you'd expect on something 45 years old. Everything stock size, tasteful again, correct as possible Zolatone, flooring, cabinetry, plumbing fixtures etc.

[goransons]

Finally able to set down the 3rd piece of plywood. I had hoped to clean up and prep the entire step etc while this section of floor was out, but we're going on 2 weeks of 20 degree or colder weather, not a great temp for outside por-15 work.. So it will have to wait until this spring.

Wanted to get the 3rd section of plywood in so I can bolt the wheel well back down. Nothing yet is bolted down but already the area by the furnace is sitting much better. The kitchen wall came up almost 1" and now the window works much better.

Furnace lines up perfectly (Though the duct isn't quite as big as the one in the furance). Nobody would be the wiser, especially once trimmed out that the hole has been adjusted.

Can really start to sense what the trailer will feel like, minus all that nasty old latex paint over very dirty zolatone. I need to figure out how to sneak my interior panels into the stacks of "to be stripped" outside Utee's house.

[utee94]

Originally Posted by goransons

Finally able to set down the 3rd piece of plywood. I had hoped to clean up and prep the entire step etc while this section of floor was out, but we're going on 2 weeks of 20 degree or colder weather, not a great temp for outside por-15 work.. So it will have to wait until this spring.

Wanted to get the 3rd section of plywood in so I can bolt the wheel well back down. Nothing yet is bolted down but already the area by the furnace is sitting much better. The kitchen wall came up almost 1" and now the window works much better.

Furnace lines up perfectly (Though the duct isn't quite as big as the one in the furance). Nobody would be the wiser, especially once trimmed out that the hole has been adjusted.

Can really start to sense what the trailer will feel like, minus all that nasty old latex paint over very dirty zolatone. I need to figure out how to sneak my interior panels into the stacks of "to be stripped" outside Utee's house.

Ha! Indeed.

Stripping the lower panels lying in the stack isn't so bad. It's stripping the acreage that lies above one's head that becomes the real problem...

But, shouldn't be quite so bad on your "little" trailer, no?

[goransons]

awhh well I don't understand how to do it, could you come demonstrate on a few panels for me?

[mikmilr]

Scott, Just now read your entire thread. Great job. I wanted to let you know I have 2 useable teardrop lens from my '64 tradewind. Bargman 48. 1 amber and 1 red. I also have all 4 rusty bases If you need them let me know.

Mike

[goransons]

Thanks Mike, yes love to work out something for those, both the bases and 2 lenses. Then my search can go down to just lenses for those. I don't mind cleaning up rust, been doing a lot of that lately. I'll PM you for the details. Thanks a lot!

[3Ms75Argosy]

Scott - seems like I have a night off tonight (well, on standby). I'll be off to the post office in the morning to send the vent fan, rear lights, and 3 teardrop lights.
Best!
Marc