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Old 03-18-2014, 07:59 AM   #1
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Want to add A/C

1964 Bambi 2 with no previous mods.
I want to add A/C so i can camp in the hot Texas summer. Need advice on best method:
1. Install roof unit. Does it go in vent hole or other location? Is roof strong enough? Is wiring pre-installed? If not, how can I run wiring to roof location?
2. Install window unit. Rear window seems logical since I have AC power there but how to run support to rear bumper? What is best winhow unit?
3. Install floor level unit. Best location would be in place of rear furnace (which I want to remove anyway). What is best unit?
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:27 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex View Post
1964 Bambi 2 with no previous mods.
I want to add A/C so i can camp in the hot Texas summer. Need advice on best method:
1. Install roof unit. Does it go in vent hole or other location? Is roof strong enough? Is wiring pre-installed? If not, how can I run wiring to roof location?
Having been involved with several early 60's trailers, in my opinion, the roof is by far the best location for an AC - I installed dual AC/Heat Pumps on the '78 Sovereign, and would do it again in a heartbeat. The wiring for an AC is probably not there - but you would want to install a drain for the condensate anyway. The Bambi is small enough such that removing the side panels on the street side and installing new wiring and a drain line would be advisable. Check out the wiring while the interior panels are off - give some consideration on replacing any old or questionable wiring.


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2. Install window unit. Rear window seems logical since I have AC power there but how to run support to rear bumper? What is best winhow unit?
A rear window location is a poor choice for an AC - no real support, and a bumper support may cause more problems than solutions.

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3. Install floor level unit. Best location would be in place of rear furnace (which I want to remove anyway). What is best unit?
This would be my #2 choice location after a roof mount. Just be sure you find a totally panned unit and be sure to direct all of the condensate water to the outside. Some window mount design AC's only provide a partial drain for the water. As far as choice, probably just about any window could be modified, but you will have to leave plenty of room around the exterior of the unit to provide adequate airflow for the fan to be able to cool the post compression coils. The cooling air requirements may take up quite a bit of space. Size the AC unit about double what a compatible room AC would require. Since the greatest portion of the camping season here in Texas is in the winter, Heat pump would probably be a good choice here also, depending on the liquid drain requirements of the unit.


Good luck with whatever you do, please be sure to document your work on this thread - INCLUDE PICTURES - so that others may benefit of your learning curve.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:33 AM   #3
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More Help

Assuming I opt for roof unit:
How do I remove side panels?
Do I use roof hatch or cut new hole?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:23 AM   #4
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AC on Bambi II

Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex View Post
Assuming I opt for roof unit:
How do I remove side panels?
Do I use roof hatch or cut new hole?
Yolur Bambi II is probably wired for AC at the roof vent hole. Ours was. I would not cut another hole in the roof for anything if I added a roof mounted AC unit. I will post a photo of the original AC wiring when I get home. I will most likely never go with a roof mounted as they are huge and look unganely on such a small trailer.

We are planning on fitting a stand alone AC unit where the original rear furnace was (our Bambi II is gutted and will have a new floor plan) and use the original furnace vent out the back. We do a lot more hot weather camping that winter camping, so we should need more AC and less heat!

Window unit seems like too much work for a weekend of camping, but it has been done. Most put them in the front window and use the tongue with a support- not rear window with the rear bumber for support.

Many have done a split AC system...including Becky who retrofitted a unit into her Bambi II in the rear furnace location.

Stay cool!
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:32 AM   #5
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Ac

Was originally thinking of window unit but front location (which is easily supported on LP tanks) has two drawbacks: proximity to dinette and lack of 110 outlet. Rear location is ideal aside from difficulty in running support to bumper. I think removing and reinstalling every trip would be a pain anyway...
Low profile roof unit may not look too bad? Should be any easy install if it fits in roof hatch and wire is already run. How/where did you find the wire?
Not sure I am up to installing a split system but would consider permanently mounting a portable unit of some sort in place of rear furnace.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:31 AM   #6
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Tim Shepherd just put up some very good pics documenting the repair on the roof mounted A/C on his 60 Ambassador. They are linked through his blog and the VAP FB page. The pictures are VERY good quality so it's really easy to see what's what. Might help you?

Roof-mount A/C appears to be a trade-off between looks and functionality, which is why there's so much interest in the split A/C thread.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:44 AM   #7
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I used a portable unit before and it worked well. You just need a way to vent the hot air out. Mine did not need a drain. Runs on a 2000 honda genny. Jim
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:10 PM   #8
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What model? Portable unit would be ideal IF it would fit under the sink in place of existing furnace since it has direct access to outside wall. Most seem too tall to fit there...
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:15 PM   #9
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Is wiring pre-installed? If not, how can I run wiring to roof location?
Wiring is indeed pre-installed. Here are some pictures of my very early work- sealing the roof vent! Note the word "Bambi" on the front support rib, then the pictures of the AC wire coiled up and ready to go in the back...



Interesting how the AS designers put red and black crayon marks to show where wires of different types were to be run. The AC wire was coded in black...and they even drew the need for a coil.
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:46 PM   #10
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Brilliant NON permanent Window A/C

I finally found this thread - which I thought was a beautiful way to use a window unit without messing up the whole trailer's aesthetic. Easy Peasy, simple & inexpensive - and simple to reverse!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...t-41052-2.html

With hookups, one could run a heavy duty extension cord from the A/C unit to the post, with even a small generator (perhaps as small as a Honda 1000) just plug directly into the genny. Covering the window with solar screening, or even fabric that matches the awning can really hide the install, especially as the awning support is actually the window itself. I'd just make sure there is plenty of room for the air to circulate.



Paula
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:22 PM   #11
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Becky did a great job of documenting her floor level installation here.

We had a roof mounted A/C in our old Caravel and I HATED the noise from it. It was a newer low profile Penguin. We installed one on the floor of our Overlander and it is much quieter. That said, it's a lot of work to get right.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:53 AM   #12
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Decided to go with a window unit in the rear window. Borrowed support platform idea from others and modified it to rest on rear bumper. I used hollow aluminum tubes sleeved into table legs and supported at the base by resting on stainless bolts attached to bumper.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:06 PM   #13
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Tested for the first time last weekend. Worked perfectly. Not too loud and plenty of capacity. Unit has a remote thermostat that we put up by the bed. Installation/removal takes less than 5 minutes.
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