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Old 04-04-2012, 09:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Edit,
Do you know if you need to remove all the lower exterior buck rivets to remove the floor? (JUST THE LOWER ROW)

TIMK
You do not need to remove any exterior buck rivets to remove the floor. You need to remove the inner skin (pop rivets mostly) and then the screws holding the perimeter of the floor the the C channel, then cut the bolts and cut the flooring to make it actually removable. Outer rivets should not be a factor.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #16
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Thanks

Yeah, I didn't want to remove the lower row of exterior rivets and then have the lower C-channel free floating.... That was my thought anyways.

Any tips for belly pan?

Thanks in advance,

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:09 PM   #17
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Wear old clothes, and a full face shield. He came out looking pretty bad! You know, mouse "stuff", leaves, insulation, and dirt. Yucky. That was probably the worst of the demolition. I'm glad Chris got to do that part! Even the wall insulation removal with all the mouse tunnels and debris wasn't as bad as that. I don't know if there's a way to drop the belly pan from the top....

Kay
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #18
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Bellypan

My current thoughts are to take an electric sheet metal nibbler tool and cut the belly pan about six inches in on either side all the way around the underneath perimeter. I might not do this above the axle...but in front and behind it for sure. This would be beyond the curve of the metal under the side walls. This would expose the frame and wiring for repairs, etc. I will later put pieces of aluminum up and tuck it underneath the remaining curved bellypan metal (making it act more like a banana wrap) and pop rivet in place.

Again, this will allow me easier access than by dropping the axle and removing the whole shooting match every time.

Be wary when you do drop the pan...even parts of it. I filled two large sized trash bags with just four or so feet of bellypan exposure. It is nasty up there!

Ben
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:36 PM   #19
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Belly pan!

Someone else mentioned removing the belly with a nibbler.
I don't know what would be worse, using a nibbler to remove and then having to overlap later and re-rivet, or just trying to take the whole thing out and putting it back. I'm going to see how it pans out for you, no pun intended (LOL)
Keep us posted, and pics if you got em!

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Old 04-07-2012, 08:46 AM   #20
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If I were going to take that approach, I'd cut the bellypan at the edge of the frame rail. The new belly material can extend past the rails and support the old edge pieces. I used this method even though I installed all new metal. Now if I need, I can remove the center of the belly without messing with the edges.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:29 PM   #21
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If I were going to take that approach, I'd cut the bellypan at the edge of the frame rail. The new belly material can extend past the rails and support the old edge pieces. I used this method even though I installed all new metal. Now if I need, I can remove the center of the belly without messing with the edges.
Exactly as I thought. Do you mean to cut the material near the inner (toward center) or outer (toward trailer sidewalls) edge of the frame rails? From the way I read it, you mean outer.

Thanks! I saw this repair done on Der Klein Prinz at the RVMH museum in Elkhart. Seems to make sense, as you say, for future access to wires, plumbing, etc. How did you handle the area around the axle?

Ben
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:35 PM   #22
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Exactly as I thought... cut the material near the ... outer (toward trailer sidewalls) edge of the frame rails? From the way I read it, you mean outer.

Ben
Outer. I then made the center section an inch wider than the frame on each side. The wrap pieces slip on top and get pop riveted.

Kinda like this...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1004244
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:14 PM   #23
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Yeah but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Outer. I then made the center section an inch wider than the frame on each side. The wrap pieces slip on top and get pop riveted.

Kinda like this...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1004244
So I book marked your resto, but I have '65, so I'll probably be taking a little bit different approach at the banana wraps (mine have full curves at bottom)
But yeah, I understand, cut on the outside of frame rail, basically having a full length banana wrap going around the whole trailer, makes sense.
Did you use snips above the axle? Nibbler may not fit.

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #24
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Some ideas brewin'...

So, I have not been able to get much done on the trailer lately. Doctoral classes and the job get in the way. My next steps include cleaning out the items I have gutted (including the LONG aluminum panel that makes the lower front interior wall) and some other things. That way, when it is time to get to work on the frame, we will be ready.Currently the original wheels are being bead blasted and painted. We noticed that one wheel is wider than the other. Is this normal? Either way, they will be shiny black in the very near future. Then we will throw on some old tires so we can roll it, and tow it to my friend's house on another friend's car trailer for frame repair.All the while, interior ideas are brewing. I am definitely looking at constructing a front dinette to replace the front gaucho, probably keeping the side gaucho, but the most radical idea I have is rearranging the kitchen a bit so that I can build bunks where the original wardrobe is. We are having another baby, and we both think that a set of bunks tucked into the back corner would be good as it would give each child a place to call his or her own while on the road. I think I can just get 6' bunks in that space...but until I get more things reworked, I will not know for sure.Any opinions on this plan out there? Still up in the air- but it is fun stuff to think about!Ben
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:09 PM   #25
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I don't think that the wheels should be different sizes. Might want to stop the refinishing process until you can get the correct wheels for your Bambi II. Definetly could be a safety issue.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:57 PM   #26
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I'm going to make a dinette for our Bambi II as well. We had one tire wider than the other when she was pulled from the woods. I got new wheels from VTS. The old ones are still on & are still holding air! I'll watch with interest about your bunk idea!
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:59 PM   #27
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Go for it!

Might as well, it's an open canvas....
I have two little ones, and am debating bunks... They would probably love them, If I can get them out of Momma and Dadda's bed.
I still have not removed the belly.... just isn't on the top of my list right now.
I just removed all roof vents and am cleaning those up for re-install and seal on water, refer & stove vents, and am keeping 14x14 roof vent, but am replacing my 14"x26" escape hatch with a patch and am installing a Fantastic Vent.
My neighbor let me borrow scaffolding, so I'm taking advantage of it while I can and am doing the roof stuff.
After that, I'll be moving to the belly and floor.

Keep at it!

TIMK
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:11 AM   #28
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We had one tire wider than the other when she was pulled from the woods. I'll watch with interest about your bunk idea!
Different wheel sizes- coincidence on two consecutive serial number trailers? I have decided to keep my wheels and get one replacement to match one of the original wheels. I will use the oddball for the spare tire rim.

I measured and I think I can get 6' bunks in between the refrigerator and the rear wall near where the vanity is. This will also mean shortening the streetside gaucho and moving some kitchen counter space over there as well as the microwave and maybe the stove. In such a small space, it really does not matter that we will have to reach a little when cooking. Our main concern is comfortable sleeping quarters, a cold refrigerator, and a working bathroom. The interior of a Bambi II is so small that nothing is really all that far away! I won't really know if this idea will work until I get the refrigerator back in place.

I actually can't wait to get to the carpentry stage. A lot of other major systems work preceding that will be a learning curve, but building the interior cabinets, beds, and seating will be a joy for me!
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